tomek

Well,no, the sag is adjusted for a given spring.Something around 40-45 mm is fine for the street bikes,but don`t take it literately,there are many "if"`s and "but"`s. Here is good example,many modern supersport bikes have long topout/negative travel springs in their forks.Proper sag number for such a design is somewhere in 40-45 mm range even for the racetrack usage.In case like that it is actually easier to set proper sag numbers by observing amount of suspension travel.If the fork has 120mm stroke and you are only using 105 then the front rides too high aand preload needs to be relaxed. Many people don`t know that and are ending up with insanely wound up front springs trying to achieve old schooled 30-35mm of sag. There are spring rate calculators at various Web pages but unless you are trying to pull ultra late braking maneuver during trackday don`t take them too seriously. When you change oil don`t forget to remove cartridges and take them apart,otherwise the whole operation is almost pointless.All the crap usually ends up at the bottoms of lower leg and cartridge. Showa HMAS is very easy to disassemble,there is just a circlip holding compression valve assembly.Clean everything very well with brake parts cleaner ( just don`t soak rubber parts with it). Reassemble,fill with fresh oil ( factory spec. amount).Highspeed harshness will be mostly gone.

At 150 you definitely don`t need stiffer front springs for street riding.Stock are fine. Not all fork fluids are equal,viscosity index does not mean much as shown in this link : http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/files/s...sion%20oils.pdf I`ve had excellent results with Maxima Racing Fork fluid 7 W,fork works fine now,no need for Race Tech or even re-valve.

Your fpr ( fuel pressure regulator ) could be going south.

Well,instability and twitchyness also means quick, direct steering. I`m pretty sure you`ll find someone on the internet who will complain about M3`s being "truck tire",slow to turn fairly unresponsive .It all depends. Personally as far as the tires go, I don`t pay attention to the opinions on the internet whatsoever.There is wild variety of riding styles and,most important,skill sets. In any case it is easier and cheaper to adopt the riding style to the rubber then endlessly search for the "perfect" tire. I`ve had Pilot Powers on my R1 for quite along now,they are on my street rims.They work just fine in this riding environment,heck,I even did trackday on those in intermediate conditions( rain/dry),could not find anything wrong with them. You probably just don`t like,or don`t feel comfortable with quick steering rubber but that does not mean those kind of tires suck. Some people may actually like them. BTW,have you checked and corrected suspension settings ( ride heights) when you switch brands and types of tires ? Just because it says 120/70, etc, it does not mean they are of the same diameter and consequently same rake angle and trail.

What brand of headlights are you using ? I`m asking because 3-4 years ago I went thru similar experience,it all stopped once I found old school plain white Phillips made,I think,bulbs.

2600 $ :icon_eek: ,you know,you could repaint entire bike ( it looks like none of the plastics are actually broken) and colour match/paint those plastic fugly GIVIs for ,I guess something around 1k. Just giving you and idea,it is your money after all.

http://picasaweb.google.com/VF700F/Interce...052327925720082 OMG,those plugs indicate insanely rich conditions.Lower those Dynojet needles two notches.I`m wonder about pilot and main jets.Do you still have OEM jets and neddles,or do you know what were the factory setting vs.what is in the carbs now ?. It seems you have to tune the carbs again here is excellent guide http://www.factorypro.com/ ----> Product Support---->Motocycle Tunning -----> CV carb tunning. BTW,that model is known for whipping out camshafts,I would start with valve clearance and inspection of the cams. EDIT.You do have stock hardware in the carbs now.Cruising conditions are mainly effected by pilot or idle circuit,mains and needles don`t matter much here. You need to lean it by adjusting pilot screw.I don`t know specifics of your bike,it depends,usually turning out the screw richens the mixture but sometimes it is the opposite. Anyway,this is the area you should concentrate. One more thing,on worn out carbs needle seats might be oval instead of round,it can cause rich conditions under certain loads.

To shorten, does it entail just grinding off the factory ends on the next link and pushing it apart, cleaning it up, then putting on a new master link? The end result would be a 18/42 w/108 links. Yes,and yes.

Shit,I have that little brush somewhere,as a matter of fact I`ll try to find it tomorrow.Have not used it/forgot about it for years.

R/R was actually O.K. but I`ve replaced it with R1 unit anyway. Interesting part of the story,I`ve used one from 04-06 models instead of usual 98/01 r1/r6 route.Why ? Nobody wants them and consequently they are dirt cheap on egay. This particular model is the mother of all R/Rs,the improved Honda part weights 340 grams,Yamaha`s- get this-840 grams. :icon_shocked: Apparently it is designed to survive free fall from 10000ft.In 400 deg F. On R1 it has to deal with tough environment,it is mounted where fuel tank,rear frame on main frame marge,really close to cat converter.Bike has underseat exhaust.It gets really,really hot there. Bad part about this swap,the R/R is so big it does not fit in stock location.Radiator fins are monstrous ,I had to get close and personal with grinding wheel.Trimmed ribs and removed that mini subframe from the rear,well,subframe. There are two plugs on this R/R,three pins and two pins.3 pins is stator,2 pins is + and -.+ is to the inside - is to the outside of R/R.

There is about 10 similar threads just on this page ,,,,,,,,like this one; http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=67912

Anything but Walmart.Their motorcycle batteries suck.

Well,after 149152 miles my stator is toast.R/R ? I don`t know yet. I find it shocking and hard to believe,those kind of problems suppose to happen to other members but not me.

Cheapest version. Unless you are ultra heavy or ultra light just clean everything extremely well and fill forks with high end 7.5w racing suspension fluid.Not all suspension fluids are equal,just like engine oil. "Cleaning extremely well" means taking forks apart and pumping brake parts cleaner through the cartridge.Keep doing it till all that gray crap stops coming out.Reassemble,fill forks with factory prescribed amount of fluid.Done.The improvement in fork damping action will amaze you.

I`d like to add those things are equipped with rain activated traction control.

Anything but ALL Balls,they are junk.

O.K. people,beginning in December I started more intense/serious/regular exercise program.The fact that I just renewed my Bally membership probably had something to do with that decision. ($$$ ) That plus I decided to get back into downhill skiing,it is tough on your body. It was not easy in early stages,I guess I had allowed my body to decline too much.Sour muscles and general luck of endurance was rather expected but what surprised me was the amount of pain in various joints. I split workout 2:1 between cardio/weights and swimming pool.On the day when I swim and don`t do weights,it is just too much trouble to change cloths,etc. Swimming is usually about 40-50 pools of freestyle followed by 10 cooldown laps (classic). On days when I go to the gym section of the club I start with 30 minutes on cardio machine.I alternate between stationary bike and "nordic skiing" machine.It burns 350-400 calories,works your legs really good. After that I do weight lifting on machines (more and better looking women then in "free weight' section ), I typically exercise on 12-14 machines ( 2X12-14 on each),evenly splitting between upper body,legs and stomach/back. 5-10 minutes in stem room ( I guess it counts as exercise ) at the end. I go the gym about 5 times per week,usually on weekdays. I have not lost much weight,about 8 pounds, I`m now at 200,but I`ve probably replaced couple pounds of fat with muscles. All the pain is gone now,on couple of occasions I doubled my daily regiment with no problemo.I feel much better and stronger now and did not have flu/cold/running nose last winter. As far as diet I did not have to change much,I was never fast/junk food person anyway,it basically came down to saying no to vending machines and,unfortunately,beer.Yea,no beer.Red wine was removed too,sad story,but good Chardonnay is passable. All that plus portion control,like one instead of two potatoes from microwave, only one chicken breast,etc. Typically I take apples,orange,grapefruit for lunch. I and my half of my age nephew went to Colorado in late March,I kicked his ass on slopes . Boy had to STFU and quit talking trash.

Nice R&D EVLXX,I`m gonna shamelessly copy your set up.

My forks are filled with Maxima Fork Race Fluid 7w (120-150).It is the same fluid Traxxion Dynamics is using in their cartridge kits. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/1...Fork-Fluid.aspx Anyway,I very happy with the results,as a matter of fact I don`t see any reason whatsoever to change valving for street riding.All high speed harshness is gone. Just like I mentioned in other thread parts needs to be cleaned extremely well,simple draining is not enough,I always pump brake parts cleaner through cartridge till nothing but clean fluid comes up. I would order 2 liters just in case,it can always be used later.I don`t use suspension fluid for flushing, just brake cleaner.

One is rebound and another is compression kit.You need them both. You are 170 with gear, stock springs are mostly fine,I would not change them unless you do trackdays,but I`m pretty sure others here may have different opinion.Stock is 0.89 IIRC. If you are really anal about spring rates it is possible to mix springs, .95 in one leg,1.00 in other,etc,it is done in racing all the time. If you go with Race Tech goodies you need to use oil whatever they recommend for their valves,US2 in this case,3.5-5w. I personally got very good results just by changing fork oil to Maxima Racing Fork Fluid 7w that I normally use for my track bike.By changing oil I mean talking forks a part and making sure everything is squeaky clean before assembling and pouring fresh fluid. Not all suspension oils,fluids are created equal,just because they have same viscosity number does not mean they perform equally.Use quality,race grade products.

It that colorite paint ?

It depends on the paint but in the most of the cases 1500 is overkill and actually wrong.Idea is to create good mechanical bound,500-800 is all what you need before spraying clear or color. Finer is not better in this case,it is gonna take lots of sanding to remove orange peel with 1500 and it will compromise the bite of clear coat on base coat or base coat on primer,in other words in couple of months or years clear/base may start peeling off.Just go with 800 if unsure about quality of clear coat.( Good clear coat will easily fill scratches created by sanding with 500). If base ( color) coat is metallic or pearl sanding it absolutely,positively wrong idea as it destroys metallic/pearl powder in the base coat.Sanded areas will look like shit after clear coating. Sanding solid (non metallic/pearl) base coat is O.K. if things got fucked up,other then that it is unnecessary. -60 F deg is what I consider minimum -Sand primer with 500-800 and wash the part with water and soap.Let it dry,preferably overnight, otherwise Murphy`s Law will make sure there will be some water left -wipe it with final clean,lacquer thinner is fine -spray 3-4 coats of color allowing proper flesh time between coats.Typically if paint starts to look dull it is a time for another coat,but it depends on the paint. -typically after another 30-60 minutes you can start laying down clear coat,2-4 coats in the most of the cases. -allow dry time between coats of clear coat,typically about 10 minutes,touch test is good indicator,paint should be sticky and not string when touched,of course you have to find proper area to do this test - what you`ll do next depends on the final outcome ( dirt and/or orange peel ) BTW,did not you get paint manual with your materials ?,not all the paint is the same.

Search Big Crank.

Mehh,RX7s have filter on the top of the block,filter up,unless you punch couple of holes to allow air in,you have nice, messy oil spill during oil change. In other words ,it won`t drain,I would not worry about orientation of the oil filter.

If you are positively,absolutely sure there is no old oil left you can go by the amount specified in service manual ( 483 +/- 2.5 ccm) and scape setting oil level . Auto body shop supply stores sell disposable paint mixing cups ( 20-50 cents each) that are perfect for this.