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  2. For light use, self-tapping screws would be just fine to attach. Next up would be outserts if you have single sided access, and of course normal bolts and nuts is ideal. ...? Gunwale converted by Siri? The cargo area lip should be just like a truck bed right? Where they are meant to go?
  3. It's interesting that we've both spent many years using and researching LiFePO4 batteries and managed to "learn" opposite things. Most of my applications have been for high current, because that is what they are great at. Lipos do this in super-high current demands... LiFePO4 packs can do insane current and barely warm up--both in and out. I can't even remember what C levels I've run them to, but the only time I managed to damage a very large pack (with lots of heat buildup) it was depleted in under five minutes. It had multiple series and parallel cells in one unit. That boat was able to run multiple packs or singles, in various series/parallel configurations. Well I left the motor controller in full mode with a single pack. It may still be on fire at the bottom of Lake Pleasant.
  4. One more derailment/battery question. This is for the UPS batteries I'm running in the diesels, also as a house battery for the motorhome. If I'm understanding and converting the "watts per cell" correctly, it means that the battery can put out a bit over 150 amps for 15 minutes from fully charged to discharged; is that correct? My math: Fully charged cell, just over 2.1v- 300w would be around 140a. At 1.67v 300w would be just shy of 180a. UPS12-300MR Specifications Voltage: 12 volt Amp Hour: 78.6 AH at the 20 hour rate Watts per Cell: 300 at 15 minute rate to 1.67 VPC Terminal Type: Threaded Receptacle Normal operating temperature range -40F/-40C to 160F/71C Float charging voltage 13.65 ± 0.15 VDC average per 12V unit (6.75 to 6.90 per 6V unit) Charging current – can be safely recharged at high current rates Flame retardant case and cover meet UL 1778
  5. Photos of the internal beauty. 4 groups of 7 cells and a small circuit board. I don't know what the board is supposed to do, but it has tiny LEDs that I've seen light up red when a group of cells went way high or way low.
  6. I have a pair of Xing Cell brand car size batteries that my friend bought that I think are garbage. I don't know what the quality of the cells is, no markings on them makes me think generic crap. There's no BMS which scares me away from using them. On a 6a charger one group of cells went over 4 volts while another was around 3.2v. The 4+ was still rising when I killed the charger. Is this as dangerous as I think it is? Potential for fire, or just potential death of the cells? Is there a cheap BMS you would recommend for using them as starting batteries? The case is car sized, the bundle of cells inside is about the size of a Harley battery, maybe a bit smaller. They measure 500CCA on my simple tester and a little lower on my better tester which analyzes them with a load and with charging current. I tried them in a boat with a 3 liter 4 cylinder inboard and my 6 cyl. 3.2L. Porsche and they cranked about as expected for 500CCA. I later discovered the lack of a BMS, I'm glad I didn't leave either one in the vehicles for actual use.
  7. For comparison, the retired UPS batteries in my diesels are rated at 78ah and have a measured CCA of over 1200. Their actual cranking performance seems to support what the tester said they could do. I was quite surprised with their cranking ability since they're small, a couple years old, and not designed for cranking. They do weigh as much as bigger batteries, that part jives with the high power.
  8. No, I'm not confusing the two. Generally speaking, LFP batteries intended purpose is what is typically called Deep Cycle type batteries. Having said that, will they crank engines over?......the answer of course is based on the load current for the starter, and just how much peak or pulse current that they can provide without triggering the controlling BMS that is built into them. Mine for example, will easily start the onboard Onan 5500W generator with absolutely zero (no pun intended) issues. That starter on that generator will normally pull in the 100 to 110 amps while cranking the engine to life. And as far as my DIY battery cells, the data sheet does say that for a "peak pulse", it can do 2C for 30 seconds. The key to that number though is that the standard 1C discharge rate is equal to 250 amps. So yes, the cell itself is capable (so they say) of doing 500 amps for a max. time of 30 seconds.....but again, we are talking about a BARE CELL.....not a completed battery that is controlled by a BMS. And here is the important thing to remember in this conversation....Just ONE of my Four cells, is larger than the ENTIRE NOCO battery in question here, and the battery of course is comprised of 4 LiFePO cells internally connected in series to to get to the nominal 13.2V of a LFP battery. So if ONE of my cells can produce 500A for a peak time and the entire NOCO battery is smaller than one of my cells, it is simply not realistic that the NOCO is able to produce a 500 amps....even at Peak or Pulse. As Carlos stated earlier though, it really doesn't matter that much if all the advertised ratings are being greatly exaggerated. The battery's purpose is likely sized to be able to start a motorcycle, garden tractor, snowmobile, jet ski, etc. Those engines just do not have the starter current draw of say a car/truck engine or maybe a boat engine with a 350 cu in V8 motor in it
  9. I assume you meant amps, not watts.
  10. To be fair, NOCO says 500 watts “peak.” Which may be accurate. Lots of things hav peak output but there’s no guarantee you’ll get it at any given time.
  11. I don’t know shit about this track stuff but was trying to visualize how to put it on the floor of the TJ or somehow fab a way to put it under the gun rail in the rear cargo area,
  12. Mike, NOCO and Antigravity are both well known for being good. Either should serve you well, so get a Chinesium counterpart so you have something to bitch about later. Make sure you strap it down properly, start a 57 page thread if needed. This reminds me of the amount of abuse I served up to my first Battery Tender branded LiFePo, poor bastard. It was run down to several times, left sitting, then usually jump started because I was impatient and didn't want to wait to charge it properly. When the next Bird showed up I bought another BT brand battery, and it has also been abused, tho maybe not as badly. It's amazing to me that the bike can sit for several months and still crank long enough for the carbs to fill and the engine to fire up.
  13. It appears that you are confusing amp hours with cranking amps. The generally accepted 'rule' is that CCA is over seven times higher than AH. The sustained current limit on your batteries may be 1C, but I bet they'll put out WAY more if asked to.
  14. I don't know how many LiFePo battery factories/suppliers there are, but the batteries are definitely different between different brands.
  15. LOL, I figured maybe you were going with reverse psychology.
  16. Yesterday
  17. Don't they all come from same factory on China? Just different stickers? No? Asking cause because most of acid batteries in United States come from Johnson Controls. Just different stickers.
  18. I simply don’t want to hear him bitch about an incredible product and company. BECAUSE YOU KNOW HE WILL.
  19. NOCO is a well known shit brand Mike. Poor quality, poor packaging, and just overall poor everything. STAY AWAY FROM NOCO.
  20. My purpose was not to assign blame for bad/wrong info, just to point out the obviously errant information.
  21. Hopefully, the BMS would stop it, but it may take several milli-seconds to happen
  22. The bedazzled frame would match your redonkulous AR. 😜 Very Hello Kitty.
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