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Well, that's what NOCO is claiming on their own website. So, if it's false, it's NOCO's fault.

‘I’ll try to find you a pink frame. 😂

You can simply ignore all of the claimed numbers, they are not true, and don't matter. That said, I bet you'd get more than that into a dead short. My RC boat ran a 120A motor controller, on hand-sized batteries.

I'm calling BULLSHIT on the "500" amps of starting power.....that's not happening. My 302AH EVE cells that I used for building my battery, which by the way, One of those four cells for my battery is larger than the entire battery of 4 cells of the NOCO battery. The max. current limit on my cells are 1C....which means 302 amps. Like I said, I'm calling BS on the Amazon ad for that particular stat.

Not any more. I am having fun with what triggers you (us) all. I've never given the frame a single thought.

2-4 screws or bolts? Throw away the dealer frame, and reinstall the plate seems like a lot of work? From a guy who literally spends hundreds of hours working on a beautiful wood box? When I bought the Rubicon the dealer, Auto Nation installed a hot pink license plate frame with the dealer name on it. Fuck that. That said I was not tracking your AZ plates look terrible without a frame? Aren’t all metal license plates construction mostly the same around the country?

Thanks. It's on my shopping list for when I need to replace the current battery.

Can't go wrong with that brand. I can't say it's best, nor cheapest, however it seems to constantly get great results and reviews. I put one in the KTM.

Thoughts on this one? Looks like it's all I'd need. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-NLP14-Powersport-Motorcycles-Snowmobiles/dp/B091P9QXX7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=KIEIH5KCEYA4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uVnE4tYKoSE_Tl1lYlKE-Ye3lTF46cM2bgoH66HulFzGjHj071QN20LucGBJIEps.Yx5ws6AuW8m8udsZbkKtLMk-shC1IMqU0Y0h7dKokqc&dib_tag=se&keywords=lifepo4+battery+12v+etx14&qid=1716906227&s=automotive&sprefix=lifepo4+battery+12v+etx%2Cautomotive%2C1080&sr=1-1-spons&vehicle=2018-31-24868-20-----14279------5&vehicleName=2018+BMW+R1200RS&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Shorai. Not sure what is has or does not have, but the bike starts right up after sitting dormant for 7-8 months. Track bike. No trickle chargers, etc. Truly maintenance free. Get one and forgetaboutit. I predict 10 pages

Nobody would recommend a lithium-ion. See the LiFePO4 thread, they all include integrated BMS. On page five after your bike catches fire, come back and tell us more about it.

Some say I would be well-served to move to a Li-Ion battery when the time comes to change my AGM. They emphasize to get one with a Battery Management System built in so it's "plug and play"...so to speak. I'm not having luck identifying batteries that include a BMS in it's design. Any recommendations?

Seems like a lot of work to take a stand. And then order a new one? Maybe. Lots of other, useful things to buy/install before that. Oh, maybe you all don't know that the dealers here transfer your old plate for you, and our plates look terrible raw. Another idea I had was to turn the normal photocopy templates up a notch. I printed it onto the shipping label tray, so it is self stick.

If you only knew the number of hours of time I spent going down the LFP rabbit hole BEFORE finally deciding to buy all the stuff and build my own battery, you would be shocked (no pun intended...LOL). In all fairness though, a couple of factors to consider here. 1. I'm retired so trying to balance my time between work, studying the LFP stuff, staying caught up with other stuff, and just life in general, was not much of a factor since I could cross out the WORK part of it and that of course opens up a huge time slot. 2. Having spent almost all of my adult life in the Electrical field as a Journeyman Electrician, obviously gave me a much better understanding of terminology, theory of operation, and most of the skill set to do the actual build with a lot of confidence that it would work. Even given all of that, I was probably on the phone with a guy that lives in AZ that is on the DIY Solar forum.....probably 8 hours or more over several weeks. We talked a lot via PM on the forum, and many times I would have questions and then we'd get on the phone to talk to speed up the process...vs. PMing each other and sometimes taking a day or two to get a response. Simply put.....I had a lot of questions, as LFP battery stuff was 100% new to me and I knew NOTHING about it, and I got a LOT of help from him and others on the forum. One of the things that he provided to me was the suggestion of a certain piece of equipment to buy and use, to do the initial "Top Balance" on the battery once I had it built and was ready to top balance. The idea behind the top balance part of it is to make sure that Each of the 4 cells that make up the battery, are all very, very close to the same voltage after the full charge is complete. When I was done with the top balance, three of the four cells were at 3.65 volts......the other cell was at 3.64 volts according to the top balancer I was using. After actually hooking the cells up to the BMS again, my eyes about popped out of my head when I saw the results....all four cells were within .001 volt of each other... 1/1000 of one volt. And today...a little over two years later after the build, I look at the voltage differential between all 4 cells and I see .002 or .003 differential, which says to me that all four of the cells are still in almost perfect balance. That's an indicator of a couple of things. 1. The cells that I bought are Top Quality and extremely well made. 2. I did a great job during the build process. 3. The Top Balance was done just as it should be done.

Jesus H Vern - you know your shit.

I couldn't get the diagram to print. https://nutjobparts.com/products/honda/motorcycle-parts/2000/CBR1100XXY/F-37#

‘Pulled that free advertising shit off and thrown it directly in the trash. Clever idea with the Channel locks.

Hard to tell but I need 2 large and 1 small XX fairing bolts...the ones with dimples...oh and 1 of the small ones that dont have dimples. I see small dimpled and non dimples ones in the 2nd picture and the first picture looks like the large dimpled one

...my ADD finally went into remission... @NoOne65 ...anything here?

His Jaguar towed a trailer, then went off-roading, and it's still working!

It's going to depend on the charger itself and what the manufacturer of the charger unit has designed as it charging profile/voltages. A lot of the RV Converter/Chargers (CC) will actually output a bit over 14 volts for Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) batteries in their bulk charging mode, eventually settle on a float voltage of around 13.6 or 13.4 volts. A couple of things working in your favor with LFP vs. FLA....the LFP batteries will have a much lower internal resistance in the battery so the charging rate is usually quite a lot higher than that same charger trying stuff a FLA battery full. And remember, if you get 13.8 volts out of it, that would eventually bring the LFP up to between 98 to 99% SOC.....it would just take a lot longer for that to happen vs. 14.2 volts. A lot of the RV folks.....maybe I should say some, especially the ones that don't want to spend more dollars for a LFP specific battery charger or CC in the RV, will just use the OEM CC that is for FLA and depending on the brand of CC and how the manufacturer designed it, will get their LFP batteries to around 80 to 85% SOC, then they let the solar panel(S), and charge controller bring it up to a full SOC. That obviously works better for smaller AH batteries, or if you have a large LFP bank...think 600/800 AH, then a lot more solar capability for topping them off to full SOC. One of the CCs that frequently find their way into the RV market is a brand called WFCO, and their FLA units end up either never switching to bulk mode or Constant Current for long enough to really do much good. Then the switch to float voltage which is a constant voltage mode and that is usually right at 13.6.......just below being enough to get the LFP battery to full SOC.......the 80% to 85% that I spoke about. I replaced my WFCO OEM CC after trying it on my new battery build. It was one of them that would never or almost never go into bulk charge mode and if it did, it would only stay there for maybe 5 minutes tops. I've had my new one for right at two years now, and it is adjustable, via DIP switches on the front of it for FLA, AGM, of LFP. I've actually got that one set for 3 stage charging, and on the FLA setting. With that setting, it starts out in Constant Current mode or bulk, then after the current dies down to 10% of the rated output of the charger, it will switch to Constant Voltage mode, and then it will float. Constant Current mode voltage varies and as the battery is charging, the voltage increases (keeping the current constant). When it reaches that 10% setpoint, it switches to Constant Voltage which is 14.2 volts, and when the battery is fully charged, it will switch to float, which is 13.4 volts. So my battery setup is such, that I can fully charge it to 100% SOC, and if I'm not using the trailer for a while, the self discharge of the battery, along with it powering the BMS, will take the battery down all the way to 13.4V......but it won't go lower because the float voltage is there to keep it at that level........as long as I have the trailer plugged into my shore power connection at the house and my main battery disconnect is left turned on. The ONE QUIRK about that CC, is that as long as the input power stays on (120VAC), it will never reset itself to kick back into Constant Current mode and start the process of fully recharging the battery......but I knew that going in, when buying it, and it is just something that I know to do. So if I want to fully recharge the battery again, I simply kill power to the CC for a couple of seconds, then turn it back on, and it goes back into Constant Current mode and starts the entire charging process again I like that charger because it is so adjustable and I also have the ability to use a FLA mode instead of LFP mode, and I know the output voltage will top out at 14.2 and not stand a chance of stressing the cells/battery....it just take a bit longer to fully charge with it set up like that though, but nothing I can't live with very easily.