Tom Posted February 20, 2021 Posted February 20, 2021 So I'm messing around with the gauges, I have a spare set as well and I took that one to figure out how do I install the tacho needle back. I forgot what method I used, definitely not "push the needle back in on the 0 number mark" because that didn't work, so I did something else and only got miniscule moves from the needle when I'd rev the bike up, it would go up in small (100 or so) rpm increments. How does this contraption work and what is the correct way to install the needle back in the cluster? Quote
superhawk996 Posted February 20, 2021 Posted February 20, 2021 My guess would be to install it with the engine running at a known RPM so you can install the needle in the right position. I did that on a car tach. It's possible that you pushed it too far in and it's dragging/sticking or maybe pushing on the shaft damaged it. I assume it's a stepper motor, I don't know exactly how they work, but you could google it if you want. I don't know that knowing how it works will help much. Quote
Zero Knievel Posted February 21, 2021 Posted February 21, 2021 That or set the needle in enough to see how it moves but don’t fully seat it. I don’t know what the flip side of a rheostat is, but basically, as the pulses from the RPM sensor increase, more current is allowed into the mechanism, moving the needle a prescribed amount on the dial. I don’t see why removal of the needle would damage that. I do know they have those stubs to stop the needle at zero, so perhaps the stub rotated too far without the needle and threw off the calibration? Quote
XXBirdSlapper Posted February 21, 2021 Posted February 21, 2021 You could also cover the tachometer with black tape. Quote
OMG Posted February 22, 2021 Posted February 22, 2021 On 2/20/2021 at 7:11 AM, FTM said: How does this contraption work and what is the correct way to install the needle back in the cluster? Could this be called a cluster fucked? Quote
Tom Posted March 1, 2021 Author Posted March 1, 2021 Needle works, it's simple actually to make it work back, just start the bike without the needle, turn the key but leave the lights on the bike on, and push on the 0 mark. The project with wifi controlled cluster lights done! What a circus. https://i.imgur.com/q1Or5pf.jpg Quote
superhawk996 Posted March 2, 2021 Posted March 2, 2021 3 hours ago, FTM said: Needle works, it's simple actually to make it work back, just start the bike without the needle, turn the key but leave the lights on the bike on, and push on the 0 mark. I assume you meant key on engine off. If you started the bike as you state then 0 will be the idle speed. Regardless the method, I'd verify the factory tach reading with another one. Quote
Zero Knievel Posted March 2, 2021 Posted March 2, 2021 14 hours ago, FTM said: Needle works, it's simple actually to make it work back, just start the bike without the needle, turn the key but leave the lights on the bike on, and push on the 0 mark. Interesting. That explains why most all speedometers have a stop stub for the needle at zero. Quote
SwampNut Posted March 2, 2021 Posted March 2, 2021 14 hours ago, superhawk996 said: I'd verify the factory tach reading with another one. Homo. The correct way to verify it is to tap it out in fifth gear and see where the rev limiter hits. Quote
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