Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum
superhawk996

Identifying diagnostic test plug '01 XX.

Recommended Posts

I've read two write ups stating that it's a white 3 pin plug with two wires near the ECU, one of the write ups had a pic of it. I have a white chubby 2 pin plug with thin male terminals that looks nothing like the 'right one', and a black one that matches the photo and description exactly, other than being black. It's a 3 pin connector with two wires at the outer holes with female terminals. Before I go shorting it out I'd like confirmation that the black one is the right one.

The issue it's having resembles a corroded test connector but it's not supposed to happen on any past '00 so I wanna check for codes before cutting into the harness needlessly. I get FI light flickers often accompanied by stumbles and sometimes it turns on solid often stalling. Sometimes the light comes on for a couple seconds before it stalls, sometimes it stalls at the same time the light comes on. Sometimes it re-fires right away, other times not. It started doing this intermittently a while back, I initially thought it was the stop switch but then it appeared not. I then concluded it was probably a connection somewhere so I went through all the connectors and ground screws I could find, all looked fine. That cured it for a few months, suddenly it's back with a vengeance. It stalled 5 times and stumbled several more in about 1/2 mile. It could be one of the things I fiddled with, something adjacent like the infamous test connector, or a new problem. The bike has run fine for months tho not a lot of miles. It then sat for about 4 weeks, made it the 1/2 mile to where my boat's stored, and immediately when leaving there it started acting up. Today I started it and it was acting up right away again stumbling and stalling, didn't seem to change between being cold or hot. I fiddled with the harnesses, stop switch, ign. sw., fuses, relays, etc. It sorta seemed like messing with the harness around where the test connector is had an effect, but it wasn't conclusive. The bike wasn't wet or exposed to any crazy weather in the time it sat, just whatever my living room experiences. The bike shows obvious signs of having been left outdoors and exposed to the elements before I got it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No pics, but good info here- http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=27323

The issue I believe you're referring to definitely involves more than a 2 or 3 pin connector. As you stated, it was mostly a '99-'00 problem in wetter conditions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The loom connector is simply a good opportunity for poor connections due to corrosion and weathering with age. If you're having electrical issues that are inconsistent or don't make sense, the loom connector is a reasonable place to start.

Its the unexplained bulge in your wiring harness within a foot of the tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know on the 99's, there's actually two of these. The ground one (the one that gives the most trouble) is at the back pretty close to where the rear subframe bolts to the main frame. There's also a positive one of the same connector, pretty sure it's green, and it's up on the inside of the left frame rail roughly inline with the spark plugs. I had to do both on the Furbird because that bike had been left outside it's whole life before I got it. The positive one was so bad I had to replace entire runs of wire because it was corroded over the entire length of some wires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought that the 01, and later still have the diagnostic plug. Just mounted higher on the frame to limit water intrusion. My fuzzy mind says left side, just below the tank, wrapped in tape.

But I could be thinking of another bike.

I did have intermittent FI lights on my 01. Stator and battery failed. Fi light went away once the charging system was fixed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so there's the test connector that corrodes, a whole buncha wires-then there's the diagnostics plug under the ECU used for pulling fault codes. I'm looking at the latter. What I've read and seen is that it's a white plug but mine's black. This one doesn't state it's white and looks exactly like what I found so I'll be doing it. http://www.ixxra.org/filightproblems.htm On the .com site it states it's a white plug but with the same description of style of plug.

I decided to pause typing while I pulled the codes and yes it was the black plug, 5 stored fault codes so I immediately thought harness problem or ECU problem. I let the code flash sequence run again to make sure I'd gotten the numbers right and towards the end the FI light was getting dimmer. Headlight still seemed fine, but the FI light finally faded out completely. WTF?!? So I key off and back on, fuel pump sounded slow right away and slowed way down before timing out, yet the headlight seems pretty bright. Voltmeter to battery, 9v. So it appears it stopped charging or the battery is bad and the low voltage was hopefully causing the issues. Thinking back to when it was doing this before I think I changed the battery about the same time I was trying to find the problem, may have just been battery problems both times. If it turns out to be a bad batt. that'll suck as it's only about a year old, but it's an easier fix than the potentials for not charging. I'll report back when I know.

Edit, turns out there's 6 codes, I arranged the flashes incorrectly.

Edited by superhawk996

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After charging the battery I fired it up, charging great. I still think something's up with the battery or charging because I don't think I played with it enough that the battery should have gone as low as it was this eve.

It ran great for a few minutes then as the fan came on it stalled, charging voltage still good. Restarted and it was back to glitchy running with the FI light flickering intermittently. The other day it was running shitty from the moment I started it, maybe the fresh charge did something for it, or just luck as the problem is very strange. Tomorrow I'll eliminate the potential bad battery and if that doesn't do it I'll have to start over checking all connections and possibly have to cut in and see how the test connector thing is. I've read elsewhere that altho the '01 and later bikes had a different set-up they weren't entirely immune from the corrosion issue. Being that this bike seemed to spend an unfair amount of time outdoors it may have the corrosion problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did Honda mix parts in near year models?

Your symptoms sound quite like what went on with my 2000.

I lead my mechanic through the test wire loom fix thread and it's been good since.

My mechanic charged me an hour....

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=39046#entry1025921

I posted a picture of the left over plug and cap as Porterb123' s pics had gone missing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My understanding is that all FI models have the test connector but that '01 and up had them relocated higher in the loom so it would be less susceptible to damage, but apparently not impervious. Problem is I don't know exactly where in the loom it is. I don't see or feel an obvious spot where it would be.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I found it, right at the low point of the harness where It's not supposed to be on the '01, an obvious rectangular block in an otherwise normal round harness bundle. I'll be cutting tape soon and I hope to find some corrosion to explain the issues, just hoping not so much that I have to do extensive wire replacement. Will update again when I dig in.

Edited by superhawk996

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...about 1/2" x1-3/4?

Mine didn't look super corroded, but having it out was like the product of an exorcism.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Early model FI wire looms have two test connectors. They are groups of grounds with headers connecting the groups in v connectors like the wire taps that cut the insulators and the wire about half the time. The groups are important to be separate, as some carry different current. But, all are grounds.

One connector is back at the location said, just below the rear of the tank. Another is up by the coils. Later wire looms have one up by the Gauges.

Never seen any problems with the later models.

Early ones caused me to replace the wire looms. Even after connecting the wires together in the groups and soldering. Some of the wires don't like solder.

Always wondered if the headers and v connectors would have taken solder and solved the connection corrosion.

I will say, I have had similar problems over the last year, and spent much time trying to sort. 01 zx converted xx. Right side run switch and starter button both were corroded enough to have an invisible non conductive coat of gel like slime. I had dialectic greased them last time I was looking for this problems source and it picked up something that was not conductive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Early model FI wire looms have two test connectors. They are groups of grounds with headers connecting the groups in v connectors like the wire taps that cut the insulators and the wire about half the time. The groups are important to be separate, as some carry different current. But, all are grounds.

One connector is back at the location said, just below the rear of the tank. Another is up by the coils. Later wire looms have one up by the Gauges.

Never seen any problems with the later models.

Early ones caused me to replace the wire looms. Even after connecting the wires together in the groups and soldering. Some of the wires don't like solder.

Always wondered if the headers and v connectors would have taken solder and solved the connection corrosion.

I will say, I have had similar problems over the last year, and spent much time trying to sort. 01 zx converted xx. Right side run switch and starter button both were corroded enough to have an invisible non conductive coat of gel like slime. I had dialectic greased them last time I was looking for this problems source and it picked up something that was not conductive.

So will my '01 have the one at the gauges and at the coils or just gauges. Do they look about the same as the one under the tank? If I don't find the problem I'll be looking into those other connectors. Early on it acted like it could be the stop switch, not so much this time but I'll be digging into it first anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

01 up just one by gauges.

And both run switch and start button need to be looked at.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, i have an 02 Bird with fuel injection. Just changed fuel pump and still will not start.  I have 12 volts at pump when key turns on then the voltage goes to negative when relay kicks in. Anyone have any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you turn the key on the relay should close and run the pump for about two seconds, then the relay opens and the pump stops.  Does your pump run?

 

I don't know what you mean by 'relay kicks in and voltage goes negative', that makes no sense.  My only guess is that your meter leads are backwards so it's showing -12v when the relay closes to power the pump?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, adding to that...  The pump should have no power, then power up for about a second or two, then off again until the engine starts.  And I'm guessing it runs while cranking, but have never checked.  Normally you hear the pump whirr for a second or so when the bike is turned on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I changed the filter on my 01 by removing the tank.

I had a like failure after assembly.

I found that I has attached the fuel line banjo 180 degrees off.

Looked good, sounded good, and would start with the tank propped up.

But with the line 180 out, it would kink and shut off fuel flow with the tank down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's the ultimate in kink-shaming.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for the response, I'm  not an ectrical wizzard by any means but in short the new fuel pump does not kick on when i turn tbe key. Bit there seems to be power there. Just at a loss

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I will look at a spare tomorrow.

Another, got me was the kill switch. It interrupts fuel pump power. I think that the 1st gear / kick stand interrupts the starter.

Did you only replace the pump? Or the filter too?  My original intermittent was a clogged filter.

The 01used the filter with a 180 degree outlet. Others used a straight in straight out filter with a rubber 180 installed on it.

 

I think that there is a connector at the tank base that powers the pump, and must be connected to operate.

 

Edit,

I found my spare and attached photos.

Was the original pump working at all when you started this project? Do you have a volt meter or trouble shooting light?

Do you still have your old pump? Some jumper wires.

Supply some additional symptoms and Oscar or I should be able to help you through.

Edited by redxxrdr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use