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ptxyz last won the day on October 31 2013

ptxyz had the most liked content!

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About ptxyz

  • Birthday 06/14/1970

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    the fleet; 2001 blackbird, 2000 klr 650, 1998 e430, '71 914

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    san jose, ca

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  1. i have a set of remus slip-ons with the quiet inserts. they're a bit scratched up from being down (previous owner) but, straight and solid. some pics here; $200 + shipping?
  2. interesting brainmacza. i was about to remove 2 links, for a sanity check i moved the axle all the way forward and it seemed it would be way too tight. i may be able to as the chain stretches but, not right now. a speedo healer is on my wish list. thanks for the info, jon! i didn't realize their poor reputation. so far, so good but, there is a bit of a whine at freeway speeds. no abnormal wear, i've yet to notice. put a new rear angel gt on saturday. installed a volt meter / charging port unit (cig. lighter + 2 usb) and dash cam today. think she's now in good shape for my ride to the laughlin river run later this week. sucks, i can't read / post as much here as i used to. boss has decreed we're not to use work computers for personal stuff...
  3. i think you mis-understand. regular length chain, new, but smaller sprockets. i'm thinking i need to pull a link or two to compensate... put another way; anybody have to shorten a stock length chain when gearing down?
  4. both old and new are jt. several years ago, i went to tahoe on a similarly worn tire (continental motion - last time i buy one of those...) a tiny, around 1/8 - 1/4", strand of wire managed to cause a slow leak i battled on the way home. thanks for the reality check, mr. xxcess... by the way, it's shaping up to be a full palate of motorcycling for me this late winter / early spring (thanks to more vacation days than the wife...). a few weeks ago, i did this on my klr near death valley! by far, the most challenging riding i've ever done. i never wanted to know what it's like in the mud on a 400+ lb bike that goes straight ahead while the bars are 45 degrees to the side... poor bike's still waiting for repairs / maintenance... if you want to see more; https://photos.app.goo.gl/aWdx1iiwhsRNJbyf7 you'll probably need a gmail...
  5. check it out guys, an actual blackbird motorcycle post! ha ha! anybody done this combo? i just did and am thinking about removing a link from the chain (as i recall, 110 links is stock). i'm close to the end of adjustment with a new chain (jt sprockets & chain). i was previously at 16/45. like the acceleration and low speed throttle response but, wanted a bit lower rpms on the freeway. another thing that was unusual about this job (not my 1st blackbird chain/sprocket rodeo) is that there's a bit of play in the front sprocket (both rotational on the splines and wobble side to side) when the bolt's tightened to the recommended 40' lbs. don't recall feeling any play as i removed the old sprocket but, wasn't looking for it. measured the thickness of both old and new, they're the same in that regard... i plan on riding from san jose to the laughlin river run in a few weeks. i'll be solo on the way down, by far my longest solo ride... wife's a bit apprehensive, me a bit less so... also, even a cheap bastard like myself should replace this rear (roadsmart2, about 1/16" above the wear bars) before departing, right? about 1000 miles round trip.
  6. i purchased one similar to this from a member here. https://www.ebay.com/p/Luster-Care-Products-L-cat-Laser-for-Cat-Chain-and-Belt-Alignment-Tool/8016731377?iid=223011109702&chn=ps works well for my klr that doesn't have hollow swing arm bolts, otherwise i like this https://www.southbayriders.com/forums/threads/111562/ i notice the spray lube i used to use on my chains would disappear from the chain rollers very evenly (as opposed to wearing from one side 1st) when i started using these. while not perfect, the swing arm alignment marks on both bikes were within a mm or 2. to the o.p., i'd want to verify the plastic tool is aligned with the laser. perhaps use tool like in the 2nd link and then the plastic laser tool.
  7. two please! i'll pm you to arrange payment / shipping details.
  8. took awhile but, i did get the old mount out. had to use several extensions to hold the nut hiding up inside the steering stem... no clues as to it's origin however so i went ahead and got the entire ram mounting system. was a bit more difficult than just following the instructions though, not that i'm particularly good at doing that... the stem mount is designed for a consistent diameter hole and ours is narrower at the top (the "nut" that mimics the fairing bolts) and it steps a bit narrower and inch or two up from the bottom (widest down there). one can use the assembly (minus their plastic nut capture thingy - f in the diagram) as shown in the instructions but, the tapered rubber (b), washer (c - used next to the nut only) and nut (d) need to come up from the bottom, instead of inserting the entire assembly from the top and relying on the rubber to expand as it's compressed. i used a bit of quake putty to keep the washer on top of my socket as i gingerly guided it up the stem. a few pics;
  9. removal should be pretty simple, not quite visible is an allen bolt in the middle. perhaps there's a model# or logo hidden in there. i was contemplating removing a tab from this ram mount but, the ram part that would replace my existing mount is only a few bucks more.
  10. can anyone i.d. this mount? came on the bike and i'm now wanting to add more pieces to use my phone for speedometer correction / gps etc. parts guy at my local shop looked through a few of his catalogs and no dice... i'm thinking of getting the whole ram schebang but would 1st like to learn what's already there.
  11. so far only forum posts... sorry, not the best link, here's another that post 17 references the manual (http://www.cbrxx.com/engine-airbox-exhaust-fuel-delivery/22568-ignition-advance-how-can-changed-2.html). here's a page from the manual on the different ignition timing. thus far, i'm thinking it's due to the differences between the ...E00 & ...E01 part# ignition rotors. all this, trying to find the snappiness i'm missing in my '01 that was present in both my old '97 & '00. even with lower gearing and aftermarket cans, it seems like i really have to try to loft the front on the new bike.
  12. thanks very much for sharing those pics, very interesting! so, the carburated bikes have fingers all the way around? it's interesting that honda lists the later "...-01" part number as the only one now available, even for the '99 & '00 bikes. i've been researching on-line and another forum; http://www.cbrxx.com/engine-airbox-exhaust-fuel-delivery/42913-early-ignition-rotor-into-later-bike.html i seem to recall reading someplace the retarded timing might be a function of the ecu and apply to the lower gears only. i have 2 ignition rotors from e-bay sellers; a box of pieces from a '97 engine teardown (looks like the middle one with fingers missing on the bottom) & another that's supposedly from a '99. from what i'm hearing the '97 is really a f.i. rotor. since i haven't yet found anything definitive, i was planning to have a look at mine and if the difference is only slight, swap in the early f.i. rotor. i'll be sure to post my findings although i'm a man with "too many irons in the fire"...
  13. thanks for chiming in, jon! if i could find a '99 or '00 rotor, might that work? my understanding is the timing was 4 degrees retarded after '00. yikes! that's a spicy meatball! i do see a power commander 2, used on-line. those have the capability of altering ignition timing, correct?
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