superhawk996

So it's upside down and connected backwards, perfect!

Is it charging? I'd use Honda coolant just to feel good, but many use Prestone and haven't had any issues so I would't be opposed to suggesting it. Water Wetter seems to be fairly proven to help heat transfer so it might help, depends on what caused the overheats, and whether it was truly overheating or just outside your comfort range.

Unlikely to happen.

Anything over 13 means it's charging some, but it should reach somewhere around 14 if it's charging well. I don't know the specs for that bike, but the generally accepted range is 13.8-14.2, quite often it'll run a bit higher.

Start it and check voltage. If it's not charging, then you have to start searching for why.

Roll, bump, push start; whatever you wanna call it. I did it with my SuperHawk with a dead battery on flat ground, I can't imagine any 4 banger being harder than that. If you were closer I'd take the $1000 challenge for sure.

What makes those bikes any different? I've roll started lots of EFI cars and bikes.

I had that thought to and let it go since it was already home, but yes, good for him to know in case it happens again. It'll work with EFI also, but depending on the battery's condition it might take more effort.

It's very different and extremely unlikely to pop the low battery because the car battery would be delivering just over 12v and unable to pass a really high current. Chargers push much higher voltage allowing for a higher current flow. With the car running then the chances of a high current flow greatly increase.

It would take a special amount of dedication to being stupid to pull that off and it would only damage the bike, not the battery. Connected backwards is my guess, but there's a few possible ways to pop the battery. And before you start arguing: to get them in series one of the bike's cables would have to be off of battery and connected to one jumper clamp, the other jumper clamp connected to the empty battery terminal, and in the right polarity. The battery voltage wouldn't double, only the voltage delivered to the bike's system would double.

I've seen many instances of jumpers between two batteries and jumpers to empty battery leads not carrying enough power. You said that would tell if it's just a battery problem or something else and it won't. It might, and it might completely mislead you into thinking something that's not true. Also, that thing about bike batteries not having enough cranking amps to diagnose stuff is complete bullshit. Just because you can't doesn't make it a rule. Can you possibly jump start something from a loose battery? Yes, so it's worth a shot. Can you use that method to definitively diagnose a problem? No. Could you do damage to the vehicle's system jumping to empty battery leads? Yes, tho rare. Could you be horribly mislead by relying on that method to diagnose stuff? Yup. Have I seen all the above? Many times. Has someone using that method led to me getting free/cheap vehicles that only had a dead battery or other very minor problem? Yup yup!

Not a lot, but more than most bike batteries can deliver starting from 10.5v. As for the solenoid not clicking, if it was at 10.5 with the key on I'd expect it to click and probably try to turn. 10.5 with the key off means it dropped to an unknown voltage as soon as the key was turned on and could have easily been to low to click. What happened implies that it stopped charging, unless he parked it with the key on or some accessory on. It could be a battery failure, but it's rare for them to do that.

Did you learn all that nonsense from YT or make it up yourself?

Wouldn't it be easier to not ask such a logical question?

Total fail, I saw slappy reply to the retirement thread.

Free shed with custom roof vent.

Unwanted vegetation in the background, a tank full of vegetation eliminator in the foreground. One armor piecing incendiary round should effectively activate the vegetation eliminator.

I woulda sworn that heavy socket thing was bullshit, but I just watched a test of several sockets and indeed the heavy one won by a landslide. It seems backwards, I would have thought that a heavier socket would absorb more impact energy but somehow it transfers the energy better. When my 1/2" gun won't accomplish a task I grab the 3/4". On the extremely rare occasion that it can't pull off the job, the 1" comes out. If that fails the car should be lit on fire to loosen everything up.

Generally, there's no harm in using some heat, and having this non fire hot wrench it would be my go-to. Those caliper mount bolts can be a bitch even without rust, I've used my 3/4" dr. impact on a few.

I can't tell you how many times I've loosened a bolt that "there's no way to loosen" without employing the fire wrench. There's a bunch of stuff that can loosen a stuck bolt that many people don't try. I've also had many that looked like there was nothing wrong and I had to drill/cut them, most commonly in aluminum or stainless.

I've had several bikes loose rear brake pressure from sitting too long, and it one case from it never being used. Sometimes just pumping the pedal many times brought it back, sometimes I had to open the bleeder to get fluid though the master. I had one bike that would loose front brake while parked because the reservoir was over filled. As soon as I removed a little fluid the problem stopped.

Probably not without some amount of momentum build up, but it has happened with many engines that had water or oil in the cylinders so it's not a fuel ignition issue. If a cylinder is full and already on the compression stroke the starter probably can't bend a rod, but fluid usually gets in through an open valve so there's going to be some amount of spin/momentum before the compression happens. It's a relatively common issue when someone does injector work on 7.3 diesels, some of the cylinders fill with oil and if they're not purged they're fucked.

I'm pretty sure the gas won't ignite. I think the damage happens from starter torque and momentum of the other parts. The same damage happens when an engine is cranked with too much water or oil in a cylinder.

Somewhere between 5 seconds and 500 years. There's really no way to say, but if yours is factory it is absolutely suspect. This is a thing that seems somewhat particular to 'Birds, but it happens to all vehicles. Any excess gas is bad since it washes the oil off the walls/rings/pistons and dilutes the oil with something that doesn't lubricate for shit so everything suffers to some extent. The quick catastrophic potential is a hydrolock on startup which will possibly bend a rod and could break a piston.

You don't wanna fuck it off. The gas all goes to #3 cylinder and can lead to a really bad time.