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poida

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Everything posted by poida

  1. i test rode an xr650r years ago, a lot of fun on road but i figured after half an hour offroad i would be either knackered or dead.i bought a drz400 instead.
  2. ive had a problem with the caliper sliding pin sticking but thats after brakes were applied
  3. yep,the old stator had some bare wires.had a spare stator that i fitted and will look at getting the old one rewound.i at least know now that on the 06 i will keep the spare reg rec without connectors fitted in the plug just in case i need to swap it out on the side of the road one day.
  4. thanks rockmeupto125,removing the connectors from the plug seemed the easier option .glad i wasnt trying to replace the reg rec on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.swapping them out on my 99 model was about a 15 minute job. so the new reg rec is installed but seems it's the stator thats kaput.under 12v at idle and up to 14.9 at revs. ac volts on stator at idle 13v 13v and 2 v
  5. im not sure if the usa bird with the digital dash has the reg rec mounted on the right hand side or on the left,but im trying to replace the reg rec on my 06.it sits on the right side of the rear frame and the wires feed under the mudguard and then through a narrow gap between battery box and frame .there is not enough room to fit the plugs through the gap ,does anyone here know how it's done.
  6. That would be the oem honda one.
  7. poida

    Fork setup

    setting up multi adjustable suspension is way out of my league. for me the simpler it is the better.on my 99 blackbird i had the rear oem shock rebuilt by a company here in aus to suit my weight .they revalved and resprung it.the beauty of it is i still just have the soft or hard adjustment so with just me on the bike i have it set to soft.when touring i turn it towards the harder setting till i am happy with it. with the front i bought stiffer springs from sonic springs in usa.they told me what weight oil to use,7.5w and the air gap. i toured europe with that set up loaded with top box,panniers and tank bag for 3 months with no suspension issues. on my 06 blackbird ,which had much lower mileage than my 99,i have only replaced front springs with sonic springs and 7.5 weight oil.i toured europe with the 06 for 3 months with no suspension issues. im wondering if your handling problem could in part be the rear shock being to hard and skipping across the bumps.when ive had a pillion on my 99 blackbird i will have rear shock set to hard.if i forget to turn it back to soft when riding solo again im all over the road.
  8. Running 7.5w oil instead of the OEM 10w should make zero difference... right? none at all.i have sonic springs in mine with 7.5 w oil.
  9. when ive changed fork oil on my 99 i clean the forks first with either 1500 or 2000 grit (cant remember which now)wet dry sandpaper with wd 40 as lube to smooth out any high bits that might catch the seals..seals just recently started leaking after 300,000 + klms.
  10. I remember reading about the 1200 blackbird on the pommy forum many years ago,found this article about the bikes .. https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/vm-racings-179-hp-honda-cbr1200xx-fire-bird/
  11. i find it fairly easy to replaced the low beam bulb by just removing the infill panels that sit under the dash. swing the clip that holds the bulb holder in place out of the way without removing it completely and it makes it easier when clipping the holder back in place.no biggie if it comes away though,its just a bit more fiddling around to get it back in place.
  12. you can test the wax unit on your bike by starting the bike while cold and seeing if it moves.otherwise just remove the wax unit and heat it up from cold and see if the rod moves.no idea what he is saying but you get the idea
  13. an old car i bought years ago had had 2 stroke oil put in the tank and then run for a while before being parked up for a few years.the fuel system was fine when i bought it.i only had to replace the fuel in the tank and it ran well.
  14. i buy frozen broccoli and cauliflower.tastes fine once ive steamed it.packet says picked and snap frozen
  15. the fi light on my 99 staying on was due to corrosion in the test plug. this is from the cbrxx .com forum Fuel Injection ( EFI ) Fault Diagnosis and Checking If the fuel injection system ( FI ) warning light on the instrument cluster illuminates when the motorcycle is running, a fault has occurred in the fuel injection/ignition system. The engine control module ( ECM ) will store the relevant fault code in its memory and this code can be read as follows using the self-diagnostic mode of the ECM. While the engine is running and the motorcycle is being used, the FI light will come on and stay on. When the motorcycle is on its side stand and the is running below 5000 revs the FI light will flash, the pattern of the flashes indicating the code for the fault the ECM has identified. If the engine can be started, place the motorcycle on its side stand and then start the engine and allow it to idle. Whilst the engine is idling, observe the FI warning light on the instrument cluster. If the engine cannot be started, or to check for any stored fault codes even though the FI light is not illuminated, remove the seat to gain access to the fuel injectionsystem service check wiring connector, which is a white 3-pin ( 2 wire ) single sided connector inside the rubber boot close to the tail light. Ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the outer terminals of the service check connector with an auxiliary piece of wire. With the terminals connected make sure the kill switch is in the run position then turn the ignition ON and observe the FI warning light. If there are no stored codes the FI light will come on and stay on. If there are stored fault codes, the FI light will flash. The fuel injection system warning light uses long ( 1.3 second ) and short ( .5 second ) flashes to give out the fault code. A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of a double digit fault code ( i.e. 10 or above ). If a single digit fault code is being displayed ( i.e. 1 to 9 ) there will be a number of short flashes equivalent to the code being displayed. For example, two long flashes followed by five short flashes indicate the fault code number twenty five. If there is more than one fault code, there will be a gap before the other codes are revealed ( the codes will be revealed in order , starting with the lowest and ending with the highest ). Once all the code(s) have been revealed, the ECM will continuously run through the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one in turn with a short gap between them. Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before. Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector. When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected. The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated. Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire. Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat. FAULT CODE SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE 1 Engine runs normally Faulty MAP sensor or wiring 2 Engine runs normally Faulty MAP sensor / vacuum hose 7 Engine difficult to start at low temp. Faulty coolant temp. sensor or wiring 8 Poor throttle response Faulty throttle position sensor or wiring 9 Engine runs normally Faulty intake air temp. sensor or wiring 10 ( see note 1) Engine runs poor at high altitude Faulty atmospheric pressure sensor 11 engine operates normally Faulty speed sensor or wiring 12 Engine does not start Faulty no. 1 fuel injector 13 Engine does not start Faulty no. 2 fuel injector 14 Engine does not start Faulty no. 3 fuel injector 15 Engine does not start Faulty no. 4 fuel injector 18 Engine does not start Faulty cam pulse gen.r or wiring 19 Engine does not start Faulty ignition pulse gen. or wiring 20 engine operates normally Faulty EPROM in ECM 25 engine operates normally Faulty knock sensor or wiring The following codes are only applicable to models with catalytic converter. 21 engine operates normally faulty oxygen sensor 23 engine operates normally Faulty oxygen sensor heat element Note 1. code 10 is only on the 1999 to 2000 X and Y models
  16. instead of soda cans what about stainless shim steel .it comes in some pretty thin sizes.link just for an example. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123316266292?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-159824-816807-4&mkcid=2&itemid=123316266292&targetid=4585444530151277&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=412352395&mkgroupid=1309518645581565&rlsatarget=pla-4585444530151277&abcId=9300543&merchantid=136820&msclkid=c7c18623da9f19777396e79ff5d9881f
  17. i ended up buying the 06140-mat-325 for 97 to 2000. the water pump has decided to leak so have ordered a new one.hopefully i don't have a repeat of the problem i had when changed out the water pump on my 99
  18. there are fake ngk spark plugs out there as well https://motorbikewriter.com/riders-warned-fake-ngk-spark-plugs/
  19. cheers,will give that a go on one of the old ones
  20. i thought they were pricey in AUS but damn they are expensive in the UK.having a look on honda parts direct ,com has them listed as the 05140MAT325 $33.12 for the kit and 14520MATE22 $58.04 cct only.
  21. both part number cct;s have the 2 green dots on them.the pic of the one you posted would be what is listed as the 06140-mat-325 for 97 to 2000 bikes as it is the full kit eg;bolts and gasket included. the pic that comes up for the 2001 to 2007 is an identical looking one but no bolts or gasket but a higher price. thing is the cct on my 07 doesn't have the 3to 4000rpm marbles in a can,it's more a buzziness/vibration through the whole rev range. when i wind the spring in the cct back and then release it the motor no longer has the buzz/vibration.that usually lasts for a few days till it comes back. it had me puzzled to begin with as it felt like i was in a lower gear at around 120kph .ive installed a couple of spare cct's in it that i had for my 99 blackbird and it's smooth again for a few thousand k's but then the buzz/vibration returns. i might just have to try the more expensive one and see if it is somehow different.
  22. would anyone know why the 2001 to 2007 blackbirds have a different part number for the cct than that of the 97 to 2000's. im after a new cct for my 06 but it comes up as part number 14520-mat-e22 for the 2001 2007. the 97 to 2000 is 06140-mat-325. there is a big cost difference between them. the 2001 cct is $101.93 and is just the cct,no bolts or gasket. the 97 to 2000 is $76.57 with bolts and gasket.
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