ironmike

I'm confirming if the oil change is the only thing he did to it. I'm also asking if he got it in 2003/2004 or if it was a "rare find" later on. I have a hard time believing that a person would only put <150 miles on it each year...even if it only got ridden in the summer. It happens . . . This may well be a pristine garage queen. Age alone does not equate to deterioration. Mileage has never been an issue with the XX, high or low. The low mileage on this example may pique some collector interest; it would certainly get my attention. However, I already have a near mint '99 in my collection that only has 3K miles. I just wish I had more room . . .

Yes, any reading under 12.6v (key ON, engine not running) suggests the battery might need attention. Note: headlight is typically ON (as a factory default setting), so take that draw into consideration.

An onboard voltmeter may well be your best indicator. You'll get real time voltage readings under operating conditions (from idle to max rpm). Readings that deveiate from the norm can herald imminent charging system issues (batt, RR, alt...) and prompt an investigation before the problem gets worse/component deteriorates. Some of our members have gotten very creative in crafting onboard voltmeter installations - something I always thought the XX should have had from the factory. There are many available; for example... http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Digital-Voltmeter-Motorcycle-Battery/dp/B009XQKCQY/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1438020599&sr=1-4&keywords=12v+voltmeter

Anecdotally, they seem to last 5-10 years... I know that's kind of vague, but the common denominator is, as logic seems to indicate, most likely the fuel itself. Of course, there may be too many variables (and actual variations of the alcohol percentages) in the mix to get a better picture. Different locations typically have different fuel blends, and even that will fluctuate by seasons. Since this is an known issue (one of the few for the XX) and an easy fix, it might be prudent to acquire a replacement FPR and keep it in stock.

Very nice example of the first year FI 'Bird, and apparently very well cared for. There are few machines in motorcycling that are so well designed and subsequently reliable that offered a bar-setting performance envelope that was/is completely street legal. Many have imitated, and some have surpassed the performance thresholds, but few can claim similar marks for inherent resiliance and reliability. There are many high-mileage examples that run just as well those with low mileage. Small wonder that there continues to be modest collector interest in the XX ('97 and '99 models in particular). Best of luck with the sale!

Good deal - jumped on it! I may not need them right now, but I will soon enough... It feels good (peace of mind) just to have a set in stock.

A very savvy tech once told me that the best connection you can make for a voltmeter is directly off the battery (+) with an inline switch (to - ground); that'll give you the most accurate readings whether the system is off or under load (running). Making a connection via any other existing circuit will exceed the intended parameters of that circuit, introducing resistance and subsequently impacting the accuracy of the voltmeter reading to some degree.

I don't think so... It's more or less one of those if it ain't broke - don't fix it scenarios. Mine went bad at five years (very low mileage), so I suspect it's the cumulative exposure to alcohol laced fuels, the ratios of which can be drastically different on a pump by pump and seasonal timing basis (blends differ by location and season - not to mention what's already in the bottom of the storage tank whenever the supply truck arrives).

Listen to superhawk996... Don't overlook the simple stuff - the odds are that the FPR diaphragm membrane has been compromised (anecdotal evidence strongly suggests that alcohol blended fuel is not kind to that membrane and over time will take its toll). If that's the case, fuel is leaking through the vacuum/vent tube(s) and into the combustion chambers. That's how the engine will hydro-lock. Liquid fuel won't compress, but it will leak past the piston rings to contaminate the oil. If the vacuum/vent lines are wet with fuel, that's typical evidence of FPR failure. The good news is that replacing the FPR is easy; it's on the right end of the fuel rail. The bad news, as Furbird referenced, is that your oil is potentially (and most likely) fuel contaminated; fresh oil and a new filter will be in order. Pull the plugs, drain the oil, disconnect the fuel pump connector (2P Brown, under the tank), and spin the engine to pump out any raw fuel from the cylinders. Let everything drain (like overnight). Reassemble with care - don't forget fresh oil/filter. FWIW... It is very rare, but not impossible, for an ECM to fail - although some aftermarket FI "enhancers" (think like Power Commanders) have presented occasional issues. It's far more likely the FPR is the likely culprit in the case you've described.

I have HIDs (Lo & Hi) on my '99 XX. The stuttering flashes of the HID ballast seemed to be a chronic condition when trying to start the engine. Rather than draining so much battery energy during starting (engine and Lo HID ballast), I put an inline/illuminated switch in the lighting circuit that allowed me to keep the headlight(s) off until the engine had started and was running at a comfortable idle. The switch and a digital voltmeter are mounted on the lower face of the dash shroud - specifically on the left/right upper cowl covers - 64596-MAT-D01ZA (replaces 64596-MAT-D00ZA) & 64591-MAT-D01ZA (replaces 64591-MAT-D00ZA) - near the lowermost (center) trim clips. There are small flat/horizontal areas at the bases of the covers where the switch and voltmeter just fit. To house each, I cut precise holes in the plastic with a dremel tool. Since I connected the voltmeter directly to the battery for the most accurate real-time readings, I put an inline switch on the voltmeter, too - thus no parasitic drain when the engine is off. In operation, the illuminated switch and voltmeter are easy to see at a glance, even with a tankbag. 'Sorry, no pics - but I hope the explanation is clear.

Some "smart" trickle chargers have a voltage threshold below which they won't initiate a charging cycle or a float charge - despite an idiot light depicting a "good" status. Check the paperwork that came with the charger. Just checking in my shop I found that on an older Deltran the threshold is 3v; on newer ones it's 12.3-12.5v. There's another saftey trigger that can screw things up - the hookup sequence (that warning is also in the paperwork). The battery terminals should be securely connected before connecting the pigtail (assuming the charger is already connected to AC). While I use smart trickle chargers (five in current use) I don't rely upon them to gauge an SIL battery's charge. I use a voltmeter/load tester. I always fully bench charge a new battery (usually overnight) before intallation. Overall, I typically get a five to seven years battery lifespan in both four and two wheled vehicles.

Value, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder... I know a collector who paid more than that for a (single-owner, mint) '99 with 3K miles; admitedly, it was pristine and had all the original documentation. Acquisition desire, if sufficient, can trump any hurdle - to include price, especially if subject to negotiation. If you want something badly enough, you'll find a way to get it.

Nice find, low mileage, rare color... Someone's gonna be happy...

Very nice... original owner? With the right provenance, this one could have collector value. Best of Luck!

I installed an illuminated switch in the headlight(s) circuit so my HIDs would not illuminate during starting the engine. My impression is that it starts easier. Once running at a smooth idle, I activate the headlight switch. My (on board) voltmeter typically indicates about a .1v to.2v drop while the ballast experiences the initiating voltage surge and the low beam flares to life. If I rev the engine while flipping the switch the voltage drop is almost imperceptable, although the initial flare of brighter output an instant before the HID settles into its normal level of luminosity is still noticeable.

I'm in general agreement that your battery is the most likely culprit. Just to be sure, here's a cautionary note in regard to your new battery - be certain you fully bench charge it (per the charging specs on the label of the new battery) before installation. That's really important because it gives you a new base line from which you can re-run any testing protocols (alt stator, reg/rec, harness, grounds, etc.) and get reliable results. Even a new battery with less than a full charge can impact test results and yield erroneous data.

A guy in Europe did an "XX Can Autopsy" and posted pics some yeas ago. I found the site that hosted his pics (http://www.ixxra.com/pics.html) but the link to his data (scroll down) no longer works (404). Unfortunately, that was all I could find. If you do acquire a can for a postmortem, please post your pics.

It's been a while since I saw a sectioned can, but I seem to remember the perforated outlet tube is fixed at both ends. Hot exhaust gases must pass through the preforations to exit. Drilling throught the core plugs (there may be 2, if I remember correctly) eliminates that bottleneck and dramatically increases the spent exhaust flow rate. If memory serves, the biggest diameter hole saw I ever saw so employed was either one inch or a hair under - I've used 7/8" without issues.

Another little tip: Drilling out the central core of the cans without drilling out the "decoration" holes eliminates that bit of "tinny" resonance that many don't care for. If you know for sure you're going to open the central core, do that first and see how you like that sound. Test ride to assess the difference in system heat retention - and the subtle new growl under acceleration. You can always drill out the "decoration" holes later, should you so choose (although I think you'll find little difference in the heat retention factor).

The old exhaust trick of drilling out the core plugs in the stock mufflers reduces heat in the exhaust system by a considerable margin since it spends less actual time within the system. It seems most noticable in the surface temps of the cans themselves. Of course, this trick pretty much permanently alters the stock cans, and lends the exhaust tone a more robust quality that's not that noticable except under hard acceleration. I'm in the Deep South and that cheap little mod made a big difference in the radient heat felt by both rider and pillion... (I don't mind the deeper exhaust note at all).

A collector friend had a problem finding OEM lenses for a bike he acquired at auction (not an XX) a while back. It was a bigger inconvenience than he had expected; it took him over a year to find a mint set to replace the aftermarket clear lenses a previous owner had installed. The longer a specific machine is out of production the less likely true OEM parts are available. The XX has been out of production (or effective availability in North America) for over a decade and the supply of OEM parts will only continue to diminish. We can be grateful that this board serves a rather close knit community of XX fans, offering a welcome and increasingly rare source of parts, knowledge and support. Thanks to one and all.

You have a PM... - Mike

Haven't tried a lithium battery yet, but I've been warned to be certain that any charger/maintainer used should be specified for lithium.

Two and a half hours later it seems okay... I can access mail without any issues. I hope everyone's access is as smooth.

As of today (11/25) I can't access yahoo mail at all. I get timed out or server error notices... I'm sure the issues are on their end.