RC4G

1997 CBR1100xx, OEM brakes (no de-link) After a recent ride I noticed that the rear brake was dragging but only after applying the rear pedal. Since I was past time doing my my annual clutch and brake fluid swap I parked the bike until I could perform the service. Unfortunately, fresh brake fluid swap did not resolve the issue. Here are the current symptoms (after service): 1. Activating front brake calipers via lever works correctly. 2. Manually lifting the left front brake caliper to activate the secondary master will lock free-spinning rear wheel (as expected). 3. Activating rear brake pedal will lock free spinning front wheel (as expected). 4. Activating rear pedal repeatedly will stop and lock rear wheel. Rear wheel remains locked even when rear peddle released. Opening the rear caliper outer piston bleed nipple (outer pistons fed by PCV valve) frees the rear wheel, allowing it to free-spin again. Since manually lifting the LF caliper to activate the secondary master cylinder works correctly I'm thinking this is a problem with the PCV valve since the rear pedal directly activates the only the center rear caliper piston. Two questions: 1. The PCV valve for the carb'ed model is not available from American Honda. David Silver Spares has one but I would prefer to only have to pay full retail for the UK part as a last resort. The PCV valve for the FI xx's are still available in the US so if there any issue anyone is aware of with using the later model PCV valve on a carb'ed bike? 2. Can the PCV valves be serviced? There is no OEM seal/ring kit for it listed but can the PCV valve be disassembled/cleaned? Is there a source for aftermarket seals/rings?

I ended up drilling two holes on the cross bar and mounted the license plate frame to it. I'll post a pic up this weekend. I had seriously considered not using the cross-bar as the rack was very sturdy with only three mounting points but since it was my first time using the rack and didn't want to risk an equipment malfunction on the way to Lafayette (via coast roads, not slabbing it on I-10). The rack and nags worked out great. Yea, they look huge on the bike compared to without but I appreciated the storage space when I loaded them up. I plan to pull the cross-bar and remove the rear turn signal relocation brackets as they are unnecessary and should clean up the rear bracket if I decide to permanently attach the cross-bar. Hank, the Louisiana Ride for Kids went well. Its one of the smallest RFK events but with app. 75 bikes they still managed to raise $33k to help find the cause and cure of Pediatric Brain Tumors. Please plan to attend a Ride for Kids event near you next year: http://www.pbtfus.org/rideforkids/

Thanks Russ, but that article is specific to the EVO rack system which is the 2nd generation. CBRBear: Well, technically it would be 4 holes. My question is more towards the fact that I shouldn't have to drill any holes, in the Motech cross-bar or the OEM fender. I'm beginning to think that there are differences between various xx undertrays and this rack was not designed for a 1997. I've got an email in to SW-Motech in German but who knows when they will respond. Sent an email to Twisted Throttle (USA distributor?) who promptly sent me installation instructions for the top rack.

I just purchased Hank's Givi E41's and SW-Motech mounting rack (thanks Hank) and have run into a challenge. Hank had purchased the items used and therefore didn't have the original installation instructions. I was able to find a installation PDF online but the instructions don't match the version of rack I have as it look like I might have a first generation rack for the 1100xx. The issue is the rear cross-bar that mounts across the rear fender. As you can see from the attached pics, the rack cross-bar runs across the mounting holes for the license plate light/frame. Hank says he did not have to remove any of the rear fender components to remove the rack but he also has a newer year model 1100xx. Does anyone have the installation instructions for the first-gen rack or have some insight how you mount the lower rear cross-bar in conjunction with the stock license plate frame?

BWAAAHAAAAAHAAAAAA!!!!! I own a 97 XX and a 2000 RC51 and the statement that the 1100xx changes direction faster than the RC51 almost made fall out of my chair laughing! And yes, even without my RC51 having Ohlins forks (both bikes have Ohlins shocks).

PM sent.

I just mounted a set of Pirelli Angel ST's (180/55 rear) to the 1100xx. All the bike mags have given them very positive reviews, they received alot of positive press at their product launch and the tires hold a high-speed world duration record (3209 miles in 24 hours). A strong factor towards giving these tires a try is the cost. With my dealer discount, I was able to get front and rear mounted for less than $250 for the pair out the door.

Dan is the man and is the only individual I trust with my suspension components.

take 3 frickin hours. OK, I've swapped shocks so many times on my RC51 I can do it blind folded so when my brand new Ohlins shock finally arrived for the XX (X-Mas present from the Mrs.) I was more than confident that I could knock it out in 30 minutes (I thought I already had a shim from a previous suspension project on the NC30). I even gave myself a little fudge factor of an additional 30 minutes and promptly told the Mrs. I would be done in an hour so we could go knock out some errands before dinner. Wrong. First I wasted at least 45 minutes when I changed my mind and decided to remove the shock from the top after initially starting out removing the lower linkage in preparation from removing it from the bottom. Then lost another 30 minutes rummaging around in my race spares looking for the 5mm shim I KNEW I had somewhere. Road trip to the local Ace hardware store cost another 20 minutes to pick up 4 stainless 3/8" ID 1.5" fender washers. So I've got the shock swapped out and everything tightened back up and I'm putting the undertray back in and discovered much to my chagrin that the coolant reservoir has to be loose from the top shock bolt to fit the plastic tab on the reservoir neck into the corresponding notch in the battery box. FARK ... FARK .... FARK... (wife peeks out in the garage, gives me the obligatory "One hour? Right." expression and goes back inside) I absolutely refused to pull the tray and wiring back apart so I wasted another 30 minutes pushing, prying and cussing the tab into place. Most likely, 5 minutes of RTFM would have have eliminated all this grief but I'm a manly-man and much prefer long strings of explicatives while spinning wrenches on my two-wheeled transportation. No impressions of the rear shock and shim yet as I discovered I need a new rear tire as well. Saw a brand new set of Pirelli Angel ST's at my local shop that the mags are writing good reviews about so I'll get a new rear tire mounted up tomorrow. Next weekend I'm installing the new Ohlins fork springs and 7.5wt.

Heat or no-heat Easy-Off?

My forged aluminum Machesini's (silver anodized finish) have some stains on them that just won't come out. They almost look like greasy fingerprints from handling the wheel during a tire change. I've tried everything I can think of but nothing will take it off. Every soap known to man, wheel cleaners, WD40, brake cleaner, alcohol, you name it I've probably tried it. I've even tried some Simple Green and Castrol Purple degreaser (sparingly) with no luck. Any ideas how I can get rid of these pesky stains? I'm just about ready to just powder coat the wheels and move on.

The all powerful Google says linkie no workie: Sorry, we couldn't find http://www.vintageconnectors.com/. Here are some related websites: Did you mean http://www.vintageconnections.com ? Well, harpoon me for trying to do something from memory. :icon_snooty: No large spear intended. Just making sure that was the site you had in mind.

The all powerful Google says linkie no workie: Sorry, we couldn't find http://www.vintageconnectors.com/. Here are some related websites: Did you mean http://www.vintageconnections.com ?

The euro RC51's had a clear window on the bottom of the taillight lens that provided the license plate illumination. Were the euro 97-98 1100xx taillights similar in design?

I picked up a set of 99 headers a couple weeks ago and plan to perform this swap. I plan to document with dyno runs before and after with the next step being jet kit, BMC/K&N air filter and some slip-ons.