ironmike

That looks good . . . Hmmm, brass plate all the 5mm fairing mount screws and the cans--you'd have a steampunk XX . . . GLWS . . .

IIRC, years ago there was a recall on the secondary MC on earlier GL1800s (GoldWings) that used the same/similar 2nd MC as the XX (the brake systems on both models are almost identical). In talking with the tech who worked on my GW, he remarked how more often than not, the issue wasn't actually a failure of the 2nd MC but trapped air that was extremely frustrating to get out (following the shop manual method); since it was a mandatory recall he replaced the 2nd MCs anyway. He used a vacuum pump & powered flush combo (a cobbled together device he made himself) to bleed GWs and XXs. You can bleed the system per the manual, but expect to do it repeatedly because minuscule air bubbles will deliberately hide in any nook & cranny they can find--damned atmospheric gremlins!

Re: unweighted squats . . . Good advice from an orthopedic surgeon who warned me to take it easy on my knees; try low impact squat-thrusts in stepped sets. I incorporated a set of push-ups when I dropped to the plank position--worked well for me. Don't forget to stretch and warm up.

Don't overlook a compromised head gasket, especially if you're seeing diminishing coolant volume but don't see any evidence of a leak. If the coolant passage holes in a head gasket are compromised traces of coolant can find its way into a combustion chamber and be vaporized--you'll very likely never see typical evidence of a cooling system leak (puddles, etc.). A blown head gasket will also have a effect (sometimes almost too slight to detect, but not always) on the overall pressure in the system when running. I agree that your thermostat may be suspect (stuck open). A "soft" hose that won't firm up might just be old, but may also point to a system pressure issue.

Aviation style sheet metal snips . . . http://www.harborfreight.com/aviation-snips-3-pc-62157.html These were a pleasant surprise, more robust than I expected . . . and inexpensive ($12 for all three - yes, you'll need all three; different cutting angles).

Put some heavy grease in the vertical grooves on the tap/thread chaser; that'll pick up any chips/flash/etc. that may result.

Over the years the Deltran Battery Tender trickle chargers have come in different versions. Some have no markings other than the brand name; one version is marked "PLUS", and another is marked "Super Smart". All are supposedly capable of charging @1.25A and holding a mild surface charge. If the battery's state of charge drops below a certain level (12.5v?) the tender will interrupt its cycle and cease further charging; however, the green (LED) charging light remains lit--not very helpful IMHO. I've also had Deltran tenders that overcharged and wouldn't stop, cooking the battery and swelling its case. I have grown leery of Deltran tenders. A few years ago I switched to a Schumacher product (PS-1562A) and had no problems since. Unfortunately, that (1.5A) model is no longer available, replaced (I suspect) by another (2.0A) model. See links . . . http://www.batterychargers.com/ps-1562a/ http://www.batterychargers.com/sc-200a/

Take a good look at the sprockets; with 18K on a chain that is now questionable there's a fair chance the sprockets aren't close to perfect any more.

Have you access to a flow bench? Head porting is almost as much an art as it is a science. You'd be wise to do some research before you start. FWIW, the XX heads (carb & FI) flow very well in the stock configuration. http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/cows-porting.html http://dynobike.com/porting.htm

Conventional wisdom says 12.8v (read directly from battery at rest--w/no vampire drain). However, it's not unusual to see 12.7v; anything lower and I'd suspect the battery is on the decline, especially if it's more than three years old. HID ballast takes a considerable bite of available/stored voltage upon starting, so a sudden drop of 3v may not be that unusual. I put my XX HIDs on a separate (illuminated) switch so I don't have the headlight(s) tax the battery during engine starting--it really does make a difference. A drop to 10v during starting might not necessarily indicate a problem, especially if the bike's been sitting for a while, but I'd be inclined to consider replacing that battery sooner rather than later. You should see 13.0v+ running at 1500-2000rpm; if you see 15.0v+ you have a problem. If you're going to get it load tested, you may as well have the rest of the charging system tested as well, a periodic precaution that may save you some grief down the road.

Heard much the same thing from a few other sources . . . LEDS are fine for trim & ambient lighting (and maybe shorter range stuff-at best they're like sealed beams), but they don't project like HIDs can. I suspect in some cases it may have to do with reflector design.

Here's a response from a little different perspective--that of an old fart. Yeah, I'm old, a little on the south side of 70, and I've learned a few things. Bottom line--it's all about health. I've been pumping iron since my teens, but even that was subject to phases. For example, did the (non-competitive) body building bit for a while, until the needle set became so pervasive (wasn't my thing, so lost some degree of interest but still dabbled with free weights). By middle age (40-50?) it became obvious that just staying healthy and in good shape took more effort and dedication, but the overall rewards were still just as sweet. To age may be an inevitable process (if one is lucky) but it need not be debilitating--that is largely up to you. If you don't find living a long and healthy life sufficient motivation to do something about it (every day) than you may have far more serious problems that may merit immediate attention. Humans are subject to trauma and disease, stuff you can't always avoid; but the healthier you are when such slings and arrows of outrageous fortune cross your path, the better your chances of survival. Here's the crux of the matter: your lifestyle will dictate your health and quality of life. Diet and exercise are integral. People are individuals, so no one program works for everybody. Find what works for you, stick to it, and modify/customize it as deemed necessary. The key is Do Something Every Day. Start small if necessary, but do something for yourself every day. No one else can do it for you--your health is your responsibility. My routine has simplified over the years; having a room at home designated as my gym helps. In a typical week I'll hit free weights every other day (modest weights, more focus on reps & form); on off days I'll do push-ups (510 in sets of 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 60, 50, & 50). I'll usually take one day out of seven as a rest day. Yeah, I know the whole routine doesn't sound like much, but it works for me. And I gotta admit it was nice to hear my primary care physician comment when I went for my usual annual physical after qualifying for Medicare at 65 (now called a wellness visit . . . go figure), "You're in excellent condition for your age." I kinda winced at the "...for your age" part, but I've come to realize that's one of the nicest things you can hear at any age. Now get up, do something, and live your life.

I took a reading off a set of (new--still wrapped) Continentals destined for the XX. Front tread depth is 4/32" (3/4" from center line), and rear tread depth is 5/32" (1" from center line).

The Seattle XX might be the better choice for a rider - the bags are a plus. The owner lowered it 2.5" - find out how, that could matter. If it's just a lowering link, an OEM link could be reinstalled. If the shock mount/linkage plates were rotated, that's even better (can easily be restored to original positions).

Mint condition examples of low mileage XXs are rare. I only know of a handful (all but one in private collections). The excellent reputation for reliability and long term endurance tends to produce high mileage examples when they do surface in the secondary (previously owned) marketplace; and that's still not that often. In fairly generic terms, for a machine to be collectible it must be desirable in and of itself, unique and/or significant within the genre, and to some degree rare/scarce. The XX easily meets this standard; and as time marches on, the inherent scarcity becomes more of a factor. Among many current (US) collectors, the most desirable examples are: '97 (first, and first carb model), '99 (first EFI model), and '03 (last EFI model available in the US), also known as the trifecta. There are a very few later models ('04-'07) in US hands, but those collectors are generally tight-lipped regarding acquisition logistics. The good news is that the prices of both mint (low mileage) examples and well maintained (higher mileage) riders are still quite reasonable, comparatively speaking. In the end you only need to answer one question - what's it worth to you?

Hmm, I thought this topic sounded familiar . . .

This may be only a curious coincidence, but Honda recalled GL1800 (Goldwing) models for "sticking and/or dragging rear brake issues" (NHTSA Recalls 11V-567, 14V-472, 15V-700); rear/secondary master cylinders were replaced. As far as I can see the GL1800 and the XX use the same rear brake caliper (43150-MCA-006 or full assembly MCA4F1600D) and the same rear master cylinder (43510-MCA-305). I never had the rear brake "sticking/dragging" problem, but I nonetheless took my '01 GL1800 in for the recall a week ago. When I got it back, the invoice listed the replaced part as M/C SET, SECOND Part # 06454-MCA-306. The PCVs aren't the same; GL1800 (46200-MCA-672). The PCV for the '97 XX is obsolete/discontinued, replaced by the PCV found on later FI models (46200-MCA-E02).

If the voltage is low--and not necessarily by that much (12.6v or less)--it may crank, but not start. Check battery (12.8v or better) and fuses first. If no joy, then out of an abundance of caution check the vent lines for raw fuel--an indicator of FPR issues (compromised diaphragm membrane, likely an alcohol laced fuel issue). The point is that you don't want to keep cranking the engine if you're unknowingly pumping raw fuel into the cylinders/crankcase--that can lead to hydro-locking the engine.

2LZ..? If so, pretty good deal, but poor timing for me... Best of luck!

Don't overlook the battery--it's frequently the culprit. The static state of charge can be deceptive; a load test would be preferable. Most tenders have to sense a minimum charge state to begin charging/maintaining. One of my Deltran Smart Tenders has the following warning page added to the instruction sheet: "IF YOUR BATTERY IS TOTALLY DEAD BELOW 3 VOLTS THE BATTERY TENDER WILL NOT START. THIS IS DUE TO ITS INTERNAL SAFETY CIRCUIT, THE BATTERY MUST SENSE MORE THAN 3 VOLTS TO TURN ON. IF IT DOES NOT SENSE ABOVE 3 VOLTS THE CHARGER IS INOPERABLE THEREFORE THE LIGHTS WILL NOT LIGHT.*" *Not necessarily true . . . If already connected (and left unattended for a protracted time) it is possible, especially with an older battery, for the charge level to drop below this threshold, the "green" light may stay on but the tender is not charging/maintaining. Yeah, I learned this the hard way. More from the warning page: "TO CHARGE A TOTALLY DEAD BATTERY YOU MUST FOOL THE BATTERY TENDER'S CIRCUIT BY MOMENTARILY JUMPING THE DEAD BATTERY TO A KNOWN GOOD BATTERY. THIS WILL TRICK THE CHARGER AND START THE CHARGING SEQUENCE." I strongly suspect this sort of internal safety circuit is common in other brands of tenders. Check the paperwork/instructions that came with your model. No matter what else may be an issue, you pretty much have to start any electrical investigations with a healthy battery.

Most collectors are primarily interested in the British manufactured models (prior to late 1957). There is some modest interest in the later (1958+) Indian manufactured models, and they are comparatively a lot easier to come by. See the link . . . https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Enfield

12.5v...? No trickle charger in use..? Depending on what type of battery you've got, it should be a lot closer to 12.8v - I think that battery has an issue, and might just be responsible for all your described symptoms. I'd recommend load testing. Or you could forego the testing and spring for a new battery - I'd bet you're gonna wind up there eventually anyway. Just be certain to fully bench charge a new battery before installation. If you haven't already looked into the charging system testing protocols, have a look here . . . http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=33318

Jon may well be on to something re: a fueling issue . . . (I can't believe I didn't think of this before--oops, just noticed that Mike/iFanboi mentioned it in post #3) . . . Lift the tank and check the vent lines from the FI bodies for raw fuel. They should be dry--if not, your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is most likely compromised. More specically, the FPR's (internal) diaphragm membrane may have a hole/split that allows raw fuel to foul the vent lines. It can start out as a subtle hic-cup or unanticipated burble when running, but over time only gets worse. The good news: it's an easy fix. The FPR is on the end of the fuel rail (right side), easily replaced. (In my '99-2000 Service Manual, you can find diagrams, pics, and specic instructions; FPR p.5-47, 48, 49 . . . Throttle bodies' vent lines p. 5-60 thru 63) You can find specic parts numbers at Ron Ayers' site . . . http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/default.asp Parts Fiche - vent tubing detal http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=6766221&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1999&fveh=251890 Parts Fiche - FPR (part 18) http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=6766214&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1999&fveh=251890

As mentioned, the brakes are the first suspect to eliminate--a hot caliper is a smoking gun (pad drag, stuck piston, dirty fluid, etc.). Otherwise make certain your fuel isn't contaminated (moisture/water, or just plain old gas) and the in-tank filter isn't compromised or clogged. If it's electrical, there are typically other symptoms that start popping up (intermittant or erratic gauge/dash behavior, periodic loss-of-ground stumbles, etc.). Check the harness connector near the regulator--corrosion can be an issue and the fix is well known (search this site for details). An on-board voltmeter can be a valuable diagnostic tool. Just don't overlook the simple stuff in your gremlin hunt. Best of Luck!

A spacer, yeah . . . I remember that I used a (heat resistant) rubber/plastic(?) garden hose washer that I altered with a diagonal split on one side to snug up the fit and space the HID bulb back a bit (1/8-3/16"?) in the XX housing. It worked great for Hi & Lo beam. I got the washer(s) at a hardware store for someting like a dollar or less--it was years ago & still works fine. Of course, I kept all the stock components (labeled, bagged & stored).