ironmike

Which cylinder bank manifests the tapping sound (right or left as one sits on the bike)? Does he usually leave it on the side stand or the center stand? Left on the side stand, oil will drain from the right side bank; valve/lifter tapping upon startup can happen--but should diminish as the engine warms and oil is circulated. If it persists with a warm engine (assuming proper oil level/viscosity), do not ignore it--something is wrong. The boxer six should be relatively quiet and hum evenly; any unexplained recurring noise is a red flag.

As cited by rockmeupto125 and superhawk996, that FPR merits attention--don't overlook it.

If the charging system is okay (good battery, etc.) and the symptoms persist, check out the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Lift the tank, pull the vent lines, and look for raw fuel in those lines--even a trace is an indication of a compromised FPR diaphragm (a pinhole can do it). If that's the case, it'll only get worse--replace the FPR. That job is neither difficult nor too expensive.

Yeah, I do have neck gauges . . . The neck radius on the Joe Bonamassa Black Beauty LP is 12 inches. Since it's an exact copy of a '58 Black Beauty, the neck thickness (tapered from the nut to the body joint) is a '50's-style profile (think fuller "C", but not quite a "baseball bat" like a Gibson R9). Radius and profile determine how a neck feels and its ease of playing for an individual player. Gibson LP necks will typically be 12" radius; however, the neck thickness will be subtly different depending on the era/style ('60s profile is typically slimmer than '50s, etc.). You really have to hold and play the different necks to fully appreciate the subtle nuances--it's really a matter of personal preference (which may well change as one evolves as a player). And to be honest, every instrument will feel unique to some degree--even apparently identical copies. I don't have a Kramer; but from what I've heard, the radius is about 12" as well--although I understand some can be had flatter, 14-16". The necks tend to be slim, like the '60s style. Fender Strats can have neck radii from 7.5 (early) to 9.5 inches (current). There are exceptions, like those Ultra Strats whose neck radii are dubbed "compound" (meaning 10" near the nut, gradually flattening to 14" beyond the 12th fret). Fender's Mod Shop website (where one can spec-out a custom model) offers good explanations/pics of their neck dimensions & styles. (Click on the neck pics on the right side of the page.) https://www.fender.com/en-US/mod-shop/mod-shop-stratocaster/0181900706.html

That's some serious eye candy--guaranteed to mercilessly tempt the poor folks who suffer from G.A.S. (Gear Acquisition Syndrome), those who constantly try to control this perpetual affliction in a delicate state of temporary remission, into potential relapse . . .

What you want is the SHOP Manual . . . if you don't have access, there are some helpful sites: https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/bleeding-bird.10490/

The FPR vent lines should be bone-dry; any residual fuel--even moisture--is a sign of a compromised FPR diaphragm, a pinhole would do it. This is one of the few weak spots in the XX. The original (FPR) design predates the proliferation of alcohol-laced unleaded fuel, which is thought to contribute to weakening/compromising the diaphragm; anecdotal reports, while falling short of empirical evidence, seem to support this conclusion. Fortunately, the fix (replace the FPR) is relatively inexpensive and easy to do (on the right end of the fuel rail).

I remember seeing one years ago, but the stock cans were modded (the two baffles drilled out - he stated one inch bore-holes and the mod made the exhaust system run a lot cooler). It didn't sound much louder at idle or normal speeds--but when the turbo spooled up, it howled like a banshee.

Best of luck with the sale. BTW, it's a good idea--especially with a model so close to OEM originality--to specifically mention if you have all the original parts (e.g.: those not appearing in any photos, like the original passenger grab handle & hardware).

Last I knew, he focused more as a solo artist, but with the onset of the pandemic he wasn't planning any more touring and intended to focus more on his session related endeavors. He was involved with Warner-Chappell Productions for a while. He has his own studio--but I haven't heard how it's doing these days. Things have been tough for a lot of artists.

Depending on condition, $1400-1600 used. True collector grade examples, like NOS, or unplayed (other than setups) case-queens run around $2K. The signature models (signature inlaid fretboard) can run $2750 to $3K. Values fluctuate almost daily, but appreciation is the overall trend. Here's a link to today's Reverb site . . . https://reverb.com/marketplace?product_type=electric-guitars&query=Epiphone Joe Bonamassa Black Beauty Les Paul Custom Outfit

Yeah, it was a limited edition (artist's model) to begin with. As it turns out, I'm not that fond of the third (middle) humbucker as it's just below the path of my typical strum pattern. I can't shake the nagging concern that any errant (or overly enthusiastic) picking might eventually contact and compromise that pickup's gold plating. So, it may be that it'll be relegated to semi-retirement "case-queen" status; that'll at least keep it pristine.

That ought to work just fine. The voltmeter was showing the level of alternator charge going to the battery while you were driving. If you really want to test it (at rest & when running) a load tester would be the tool of choice. But I think for now you're gonna be okay.

Installed it in the parking lot . . ? I'd recommend taking the time to disconnect and bench charge the new battery (remove it if necessary). The first charging cycle is important because it'll maximize the charge holding capability and its potential usable lifespan. Most stores carry batteries holding little more than a modest surface charge and don't bench charge their batteries, assuming the customer will do so--or worse, don't really care once the sale is made.

Agree that vacuum lines are suspect--especially it they're the original at 20yrs old--find any raw fuel in one and your FPR merits replacement as well. Fortunately, these are relatively easy fixes.