tomek

Just clean the shit very well, preferably with, of course, small amount of acetone. If you wipe out quickly it won't hurt nothing. And use some sealer. It is not like it is forced induction. Pressure differential is not that great. Should be good till next removal.

IIRC brianmacza moved from South Africa to one of neighbouring countries. Partzilla might not be an option.

I'd replace radiator as well. I don't even wanna know how fins look after all those miles. Get Chinesum from Amazon. Easier to replace/return if anything wrong with it. And radiator is not exactly rocket science. China will work fine. Left lower corner makes contact with foam on inside of lower fairing. On my bike that particular piece of foam was packed with sand etc. I acted as a sand paper, eventually rad started to leak there. You may wanna check those areas out.

Forgot to mention 20kw or 27hp engine giving 0 to 60 time of "eventually". No wonder nobody wanted it.

Let's inject reality and facts into this thread. They had 25-50 mile range. Lol. 16-18 grand for that? Really?

And, btw. For the price of having read tested by professional shop you could Buy necessary tools you could do it on your own without removing rad. Or Just buy eBay Chinesum rad.

Could be thermostat acting up. Are thermostat and housing clean? No crap there? How about water pump? Nothing blocks the flow there? Other than that you are dealing with 18 years radiator. Cooling system on XX was barely adequate even when those bikes were brand. It might be time for new radiator.

Just pray them out. Get bigger/ sharper screwdriver. Don't overthink it. You are not gonna hurt the head. Trust me. Also, new ones have the tendency to fall out during installation. Extremely aggravating. Many different tactics can be employed to keep them in place. Like crazy glue, or even thick grease. Added bonus in form of smoke for couple of minutes in case of latter.

It is awesome. Camping, motorcycle, nice weather, etc. Does not get better than this. I'm leaving on my annual West trip exactly one week from now. Can't wait.

Two per workday, none on weekends, that's about 10 per week.

I usually take them with me on mountain hikes and skiing. They are not bad, but otherwise I avoid things of that nature like a plaque.

That's truly awful, bags are installed wide and high. Mine custom set up is much nicer. I'd keep them after the vacations, but, but, but. With Givi bags every time you wanna open it you gotta use the key. Idiot proof, you won't take off with bags unlocked, but truly annoying. Like when I get to work I throw gloves in the bag. Or groceries, etc. No hell, no way. Honda's OEM bags not require using keys. Of course, it means I leave them unlocked all the time. So, once I get back from the trip brackets are off, and stock bags go back on.

I have plan. Load heavier shit in side bags, and lightweight things like sleeping bag, clothes, etc. in top case. I'll be fine. Good pilot car fly on barn door. I like rails/attachment points on the top. I've permanently attached bungee net on the top. I can keep mash jacket there in case it gets too damn hot. I still have trauma after last year's ride from Colorado Springs to Omaha in 108 F. And high humidity. No clue how I survived. 😁

It all has started last fall when my ex called me. "There is estate sale right next to where you live, lottsa motorcycle related items, yada da". Not that she really cares about me, but in case there was something she liked I would help her throw it in her station wagon. Lol. Anyway, I scored nice brand new Givi V35 cases, although without mounting kit. Factory bags- I have those- are really nice, but on small side. 28 liters. Allegedly. Perfectly fine for local riding but too small for cross country trips. I do love camping. I figured I would get mounting kit from Givi. Except it had been discontinued and not available. At all. Denis Kirk had one for FZ6 for 1/3 of factory price, it looked I could make it work with some creativity. Then project went on back burner. I'm leaving for my annual trip in about 10 days, yesterday finally decided to do it. Was not that difficult. Extra bend here or there, relocated bracket in the back holding right and left side together. The end result is better vs. Givi mounting kit because I don't have huge OEM muffler, could keep bags nice, tight and closer to the bike. As a matter of fact the bike is borrower vs. Honda bags by about 1 inch. Oh, btw, painted L shaped side covers in bike's matching Platinum pearl. The other point of attack was top case. I do have teardrop shaped Givi bag that I hate with passion. It splits mid height, can't really load much in it without shit falling out when you open it. Enter Chinesum aluminum fake Givi bag. It appears built well enough to use it for couple weeks per year. I don't use top bag to local everyday riding. 50 bucks for side cases, 60 for FZ6 mounting kit, and 170 for fake 65 liters Givi top case.

I'm somewhat interested btw.

What is the difference between civilian Windows and pro?

I've had this for about 1.5 years. Holding up really well. Carbon fiber/titanium frame hybrid polarized green prescription lenses, can't remember how much I paid, probably around 100 bucks or so. Walmart will make nice polarized lenses to about anything you bring BUT if prescription from their place is too old they won't make lenses till you get fresh one. That was 80 bucks last time, plus 120 for lenses. Now, my prescription have not changed ever, or since I realized I need glasses for long distance, so it feels like waisting money, but other online places are more expensive vs Walmart even with cost of prescription.

https://www.eyebuydirect.com/?channel=cpc&source=google&matchtype=e&kw=eyebuydirect&adid=433125060419&addisttype=g&utm_term=eyebuydirect&utm_source=google&utm_medium=paidsearch&utm_campaign=1.US-EBD-EN-B-NA-Eyebuydirect-Exact-NA-NA-Ecom-NA&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwy8i0BhAkEiwAdFaeGLkJdFSOCiT11qVYH0OYJtDKXJZJ970XjWvTH8HiqKJ-oyVMoxneERoCD8UQAvD_BwE I've used them number of times. Usually takes them around one week to get prescription glasses l. Some of their frames can be polarized, some not. I prefer polarized but just tint is OK as well. I always want green g15 tint, no guess work. I know what I want. I used to get expensive glasses, but it got old quickly. I drive for living, wear glasses pretty much all the time, so they don't last long. Just ordered one clear for helmet, and one green tint for car/truck/outdoors. Frames are ok but screws have the tendency to back off. Even with thread lock. Lol. 100 bucks total for prescriptions. They always have some sort of coupons. Having said that quality of something like Rayban frames is second to none. They last long time. Even their polarized lenses are different in the sense only round section right in the front of your eyeballs is polarized, and the rest not. Or maybe the other way. The point is you can see shit on displays, etc. Cheaper lenses are uniform, entire surface polarized or not.

You could remove whatever you can, and then just flip it and let it rest against the wall, etc. Secure to the wall. It would be criminal not to check main and, if accessable, rod bearings. I would not fuck with plasti gauge, if signs of wear at uncomfortable level replace them going by numbers of crank and cases. I had to fix 6th gear on my VFR1200. Engine removal being V4 is epic, biblical and monumental pain in the ass to the square. 4 times amount of work vs. inline 4. Essentially you have to lift off the frame of the engine, and reverse it on installation. You gotta remove front forks, driveshaft, rear pain in the ass headers. Basically bike has to be strip down to the frame except gauges, triple tree and rear subframe. In retrospect bike flip would be much, much quicker.

Fucking Awesome. Way to go. All physical health benefits of exercise aside, it is also huge mood enhancement.

I see those TechSpecs pads all the time at race track. Definitely black, clear turn yellowish and look like ass after awhile.

Funny fact. Long oil intervals are big marketing tool in Europe for couple reasons. First, oil is insanely expensive, like double US price, and OEMs can deny warranty unless scheduled maintenance was done at dealership. That includes oil changes as well. So, they push extended intervals. Or maybe it has something to do with insane tree huggers. So, my brother in law in Poland got CX5 with 2.5 engine. Lust like US counterpart, and just what my wife drives. It does say in his manual to change oil every 30k kilometers or 18k miles. I shit you not. My head almost exploded when I saw that. I told him in no uncertain terms to change oil every 10-12 k kilometers or once his warranty expires his engine will expire as well.

Found picture, although it is not cbr1100xx. Those I was writing about are marked as "by pass".

There are bunch of holes at the bottom of the carb that come progressively on when throttle is being opened. Like 3-4 of them, and positioned right under or slightly in the front of butterfly. In the front on engine's side. When throttle is barely cracked the vacuum is really strong there, and that is how engine receives fuel in that particular load. At larger throttle openings they play no role. They received fuel via pilot circuit. They play the role in transition from idle untill the slide moves and main jet (needle) comes online. Overlapping systems really Also IIRC, fuel idle screw adjust the flow only to the first of one of those holes. The rest is strictly pilot jet only. That's why turning the screw may not cure engine transition issues btw. You may need different fuel pilot jet. But I'm sidetracking here, not related to the problem here. So, the bike can idle perfectly fine, but if engine hesitates once the throttle is being opened first thing I would check would be those particular tiny passages. You probably need to remove fuel adjustment screw, count turns out for future reference, don't loose that small spring. Spray some carb cleaner, let it soak couple minutes and throw some compressed air into the hole.