tomek

It is only 1 gallon.😁

Top of Old Spiral Hwy Lewiston ID. It is much faster then expected, I could easily dip into lower triple digits on my race prepped R1. Cruising milage improved by honest 10%, I get 40 mpg at true 85 mph in configuration as in the pic.

Sensor is there to keep afr in certain areas of fuel map around 14.7. It will be in closed loop mode in steady low to low-mid loads like cruising but not idling, accelerating or going WOT. If you disconnect, it is going to operate in open loop, probably richer than before in areas of engine operation I've mentioned before. You are gonna be fine, mpg might drop somewhat plus ecu light on the dash will be on.

BTW, Ill be in MT with the bike starting July 3rd, maybe I'll take couple shots in proper Blue Big Sky scenery.

I gotta fly you in and let you detail it.

I'll get one soon or, unfortunately, later.🙃

Swapped fairings couple weeks ago. Initially I was not convinced that platinum pearl was the right way to go but now I love it. Color combination has 50's American Iron vibe. It was lottsa work but I love it. It is beautiful blue in direct bright sun, goes into blue-teal in the shade.

m12x1.25 . Just get O2 bung on ebay, amazon, etc. Make sure it is small one unlike old school m18x1.5

It was brand new and I started having issues after 2 months of usage. It is design issue, it is basically open to elements. On the other hand Yamaha`s oem sensor incorporates couple o-rings effectively making it waterproof but you still get crap on it after while. I used engine molly assembly lube, we'll see how long before problems come back. They should have used small rubber boot to cover pushrod-bushing area.

The project continues, I should have all painted panels installed by Saturday. Today's episode is quick shifter sensor maintenance. Bike has Bazzas Quick shifter+ Traction Control+ fuel mapping unit. Couple months after installation Quick Shifter stopped working. I blamed shitty aftermarket quality but eventually decided to investigate the problem. It turned out the sensor is very simple design- spring loaded pushrod connected to electric on/off switch. In order for the sensor to work pushrod has to move about 2mm when gear lever moves. I was not getting enough movement due to partially seized rod in the steel bushing. Valve lapping compound and some elbow grease fixed the problem in 10 minutes. Bazzaz is a nice unit, killed time can be adjusted by gear, typically lower gears require longer cut off time.

If you know bearing number you can find quality replacement on ebay or online store. Look for SKF, NTN and couple other brands.

Do not order All Balls bearing kits. They use cheapest pile of shit Chinesum so-called bearings. Similar quality bearings go on ebay for couple bucks. Tapered bearings blows as well. Yes, I have been around here that long.

Vacuum leak can cause erratic idle only on engines with feedback idle control speed, so it doesn't apply here. Going back to OP, I think there are couple compounding issues here. I don't think wax stuck wide open would send idle speed that high. Most likely idle speed is set too high as well. I would disconnect fast idle speed apparatus first and check idle speed after the engine is up to normal operating temps. There could be vacuum leaks as well.