tomek

No idea what they use. I`ve never run Pirellie slicks. If I had this kind of problem I would clean rim extremely well and try to mount tires without any lublicant/sealer.

BTW, I do have before pics. After all those years they were covered with material transferred from braking pads.

Dunlop slick is the only m-cycle tire I had problems with breaking the bead. Rear Dunlop slick on Yamaha R1 rim will make grown man cry. This particular rim has very shallow "dip" in the middle. The takes considerable force to remove or install even with proper m-cycle spec tire machine. Tire guys at stt know me very well, "that fucking guy with Dunlop slicks and R1 rim". lol I gladly pay my 20 bucks and watch them wrestle and sweat like pig with my tires in 90 deg heat. Lol. So, it is very tight fit but I never had Dunlop spin on the rim. Pirelli slicks spin fairly easy

I will agree but it takes time to go to the shop, etc. My cousin's shop does have pro tire changing machine but he is almost 1 hr each way. BTW, you would not be able to break the bead on that Dunlop slick with other ways mentioned by Jon and blackhawkxx. Trust me on this. It is that difficult. It does help if you keep it in tire warmers for 1 hr or so.

It does work. 48 bucks with 20 percent off. Typically it takes me 30-60 seconds to break bead on common motorcycle tire with nothing more than couple spoons. Dunlop race slicks are entirely different animal, extremely stiff construction. It is major pita to break bead on them, with HF tool -10 seconds job.

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Not sure how it is done but he specifically says not to disassemble floating brake rotors. So I guess it is done different way vs. flywheel. I forgot to take "before" pics. Glazing does not help, it was removed so they should feel brand new. I'm pretty sure I could resurface them with sanding discs, etc. but it is not worth my elbow grease. I don't have time for nonsense like that. Brembo, ebc, braking and galfer make quality and reasonably priced products better than OEM. I may have missed one or two brands but that is about it. I would not touch anything else. I would not

So my Braking rotors after 10 plus years on the track (my both R1s use same rotors) got glazed/lightly groved to the point they lost some efficiency. New set is about 600$ bucks. I measured thinkness around bottons vs pad area, the actual wear was about 0.10-0.15 mm. The minimum marked on rotors says 4.5mm, mine were around 5.10 mm. I decided to sent them for resurfacing to True Disk. They came back couple days ago. The surface looks brand new, he has not removed much, they are about 4.95 mm now, well above minimum. 110 bucks plus shipping both ways. 15 bucks x 2.

I had issue with nephew's Subaru Legacy, I dunno, about 10 years ago. No power going to ecu. Everything tested fine with multimeter. It was definitely puzzling but after receiving piece of advise from mikesail I went thru critical wires with load probe. Basically couple wires hooked up to 55 w halogen bulb. Sure enough, main power line to ecu had internal corrosion.

I hope you do realize those soda stream canisters can potentially explode up in your ass in Arizona heat. They specifically mention that on their website. I had co2 cartridges explode in exhaust side hard saddlebag.

The idea is to spray it inside of the tire, if you are spraying on the rim you are doing it wrong. Anyway, give it quick squirt and then figure out how to ignite it without having your fingers chopped off. I usually make long "joint" out of piece of paper and go from there. Or use can of wd40 as a blow torch. There is no need to start air before ignition for motorcycle and car tires, remember that would increase amount of available oxygen for the "poof". Bigger bang is not always better. Also I fail to see how carb cleaner etc. contacting inside of the tire for 2-3 seconds is g

If everything else fails do this. My last set of winter rubber absolutely, positively refused to seal. I'm taking professional (of course lol.) environment, good automotive tire machine, big ass v2 compressor, bead sealer. We tried every trick in the book but those Michelin x-ice refused to seal. Even though the tire was OEM size on OEM rim the gap between the rim and bead was too great. It was non issue once we tried carb cleaner trick. BOOM. Done.

I don't have 23 minutes to watch it. Sorry. For your garage you need this, only 59 bucks. It works also as 5 gallon portable air tank. That big nozzle is removable. BTW, tire to tire connection in some cases will not work. The flow of the air would be rather slow. https://www.ebay.com/i/224033109187?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=224033109187&targetid=935065066747&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=9021587&poi=&campaignid=10877432047&mkgroupid=112821775411&rlsatarget=pla-935065066747&abcId=930040

OEM, Yamaha. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=yamaha+r1+voltage+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_sop=15