tomek

I do use oil and salt, not really care about gluten free or not. Plastics are no go in food storage but realistically it is almost impossible to avoid them totally. Do the best you can, certainly don't use them in microwave.

I avoid plastic containers as much as possible, certainly don't use them in microwaves. https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/is-plastic-a-threat-to-your-health

I don't understand why Swamp is so hell bent on eliminating dairy. Yes, something like cheap milk in plastic battles gotta go but quality products are essential in balanced diet as long as you are not lactose intolerant person. Most of people with "European Dna" are lactose tolerant, dairy has been part of a diet there for couple thousands of years. So, it depends. I'm 57 and I've never suffered from Vitamin D deficiency. Maybe because I do use milk, quality yogurt and white cheese, kind of like farmer cheese.

Why 2% instead of whole milk, well, lower fat is better for cappuccino. Why not skim milk? Can't stand the taste of it.

Nothing, tested last year and it was perfectly fine, although I do drink rather large amounts of vitamin d enhanced organic milk. I know it goes against conventional wisdom but my body needs daily dose of dairy.

Totally agree. I've had some equally or even more interesting paint jobs on track bikes.

interesting pattern and choce of colors.

Industry standard 7.48 mm Dia. shims. Irrc. They are widely available. Many other brands of mcycle use those plus there is aftermarket like Hotcams or K&L. The nice thing about Honda OEM shim is the fact they available in 0.025 mm steps unlike aftermarket- 0.05mm. So if you are anal about engines like I am go with Honda OEM shims. I always like to get valve clearances as close as possible. The OEM window, let's say 0.13-0.19 mm or 0.06 mm spread, is not good enough for me. I'd like to get them to within 0.01-0.02 mm.

I use gel pad from Cycle Gear. It takes forever to cool down after being in the sun for couple of hrs. It is like sitting on the furnace for 30-60 minutes.

You can strap the tank to passenger grab handle.

+1

Of course. 😋 I don't understand why some here sometimes have a nerve to question my infinite wisdom.😉

Most likely front master cylinder. Both brake calipers would no go kaput at exactly same time. There is really, really small fluid pressure relief hole at the bottom of reservoir. There is one more, much bigger feed hole. 5 bucks says relief hole is clogged. What happens fluid can't return freely to master cylinder, brakes drag, heat builds up, fluid expands, pressure builds up, brakes lock, etc. Anyway, that would be my first line of attack.

I would not bother with 15-20 years old oem rad off eBay. There are good new aftermarket units for less then 100 bucks.

Couple things that were not clear, at least for me When you turn key to on position fuel pump will prime for first 2-3 seconds and then goes off, at least that's how many FI systems operate. So, you should really check voltage with starter engaged. However, you did say it would not start with pump jumped so I don't believe that's the issue. If fuel pressure is ok next line of attack should be cam and crank position sensors. They don't necessarily throw the code (check engine light) even if something is wrong.