tomek

Back in those days virtually all buses were powered by 2 stroke Detroits. They had very narrow operating and fuel efficiency range, 4 or 5 speed auto did not help either. They do sound awesome with open exhaust.

Lets not forget there are gasoline engines without traditional throttle - no pumping losses. Diesel fuel has higher energy content per volume, plus they run higher CR. Anyway, every engine has this https://x-engineer.org/automotive-engineering/internal-combustion-engines/performance/brake-specific-fuel-consumption-bsfc/ Swamps Jeep pulling a trailer has to work outside of best efficiency zone while his neighbor`s pick up is in the sweet spot. That's pretty much it.

IIRC Dave run car tire on his GW. However I find it hard to believe that he owned any motorcycle long enough to go through two sets of tires.😁

I think it is related to chain lube you use - wax. I've noticed it was quite thick. I would clean ypur chain with something like wd40 before applying wax again.

Start with new vacuum lines. Just get generic line at Auto Zone, etc, cut to correct length and replace them all . You have to figure out ID of stock lines before heading to the store. It is gonna cost you like 2 bucks. Replace them piece by piece so you wont waste time trying to figure what goes where. It is cheaper and quicker than checking whether they are good or not. Ecu on XX needs accurate pressure or vacuum reading from intake ports to operate properly under light load conditions. In heavy load area it is rpm and % of throttle opening system.

People replace X brand worn out tire with Y brand brand new tire and automatically proclaim Y brand being way better. Lol. Same scenerio when they switch from X type of spark plug to Z type. Lol.

Ive experianced that problem before. Fuck that shit. Very first thing I do on new to me motorcycle is to replace oem fuel lock with keyless chineasum assembly from ebay. Vortex race style. 20 some bucks.

I did get ridiculous mileage from rear road 4 gt on my VFR12. Like 10k plus, record for me.

I`ve used whatever what cheapest at wallymart. No cooling system failure in last 200k + miles. BTW, waterwetter plus, well, water resulted with leaking water pump on my RIP track only 2004 R1. PITA to replace since water pump and oil pump are one piece that is located inside of oil pan. I just flipped bike upside down with straps and fork lift. I shit you not.

Yamaha does have quick connects iirc, but they are 90 deg types, at the fuel tank, can`t really adopt those on anything else. I never had any issues. Going back to O.P. That is return, low pressure line. Interesting it leaks there, but not on high pressure side.

Not sure what are you trying to do. And yes, left and right calipers are different , bleeder has to be on the top.

They never raced d16rr not intended to race it, and nobody has raced it. That was not the point of that bike. It was the showcase of Ducati MotoGP tech at the time. If you wanna do track day on it 16 inch rear wheel presents a problem, no decent track tire in this size, supposedly 17 rim from 999r drops right in.

How are brake pads ? That fluid had to go somewhere.

Even in conventional braking system you can get the rear tire to bounce and/or swimg to the side when braking really, really hard. Slipper clutch helps, and playing with shock's rebound. You can get things to stay calm till the grip of tire and track conditions change, then you start over again. My track R1 with YEC ecu ( yec is yamaha's hrc) is the first bike where I can truly forget about what rear is doing on the entry. It is active system, it is using fly by wire throttle control, wheel speed sensors and three axis gyro control unit to keep engine braking under control.

Iirc front fork master cylinder operates two pistons of rear brake caliper on carb bikes vs. one piston on fi bikes.