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  1. Yesterday
  2. Yeah, for sure. Specific to fuel pumps, I had one slowly start having intermittent issues on a Seca 650 Turbo. When it finally seized up and I took it apart, it was easy to see what happened. The little needles or tubes or whatever that spin to create pressure were breaking up. There was a place for debris to sit and let it work, but when a piece would get caught, it would fail to start. Key on/off, or jostling the bike, would make the piece move, and it would work again.
  3. I don't recall reading that you synched the carbs, make sure you do that before playing with the fuel screws. And maybe doing it again afterwords if you find the fuel adjustments out of whack. Actually, I'd leave the manometer on while doing the fuel adjustments, then you'd see if any change. I'm guessing they wouldn't change unless the mixture was pretty far off.
  4. JaBr

    Project Blackbird

    That be the one 😊
  5. Also-fuel pumps, and motors in general, can do goofy shit where they'll work/not work for no obvious reasons. Not common, but I've run into it a few times. I recently had an Explorer with an intermittently dead pump that I was almost certain couldn't be the pump, but everything else checked out so the customer decided to take the gamble and have me replace it. Been trouble free for many months.
  6. In the beginning wiggling the wires or connector at the pump made it work so it seems like the problem is in that area. Wires in the run are very unlikely to have a problem without external signs of damage. The most likely issue would be at the connector. Next on the list would be the connection between the terminals and the pump itself. I don't know how they're attached on the Bird, but a rivet type connection is pretty common and they can get loose & corroded/burnt.
  7. That is a new one on me.
  8. https://www.carbtune.com/colortune.html
  9. Last week
  10. This case in black: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0833VKKL8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 First person to PM a mailing address can have it. Brand new.
  11. JaBr

    Project Blackbird

    I think I'm getting silly, ordered a Morgan Carbtune, Colortune, and a fancy screwdriver today. 161 quid, ouchies. But they're shiny...
  12. I'm agreeing with him, and adding an explicit point that I think is what he's saying. If there is enough power to run the starter motor, there's enough power to run a fuel pump. There's no logical reason to think that a battery would be bad enough to make the fuel pump fail and the starter motor still run.
  13. OK. Do you not agree with Superhawk996's previous opinion that the bad cell battery is not the cause of the crank, but no prime issue?
  14. To put a fine point on it: A starter motor is the highest consumer of electrical power in a vehicle, and puts the most strain on the battery. If it's able to run, then everything else should be able to run.
  15. Thank you for the response. Yes, it did crank but did not give fuel pump prime. If what you suggest is correct in this case, I'm not sure where to look next. Thought that a bad battery could have been the cause.
  16. He's retired, I've had him do excavation work for me but it's been years ago. Don't know what his plans are for the ford but it's been there in the same spot for years and not in good shape at all except very little rust. Things just don't rust here. I'm asking around for his cell#. 

    https://www.mylife.com/gene-lembcke/e472690633596

     

  17. I'll find his number, he winters in Az.

  18. If the bike still cranked with the bad battery but the fuel pump wouldn't run, the battery wasn't the cause of the fuel pump issue. A new battery might make the fuel pump run because the extra power could overcome whatever the actual problem is, but it's not the solution.
  19. Update: after reading numerous CBR "no fuel pump prime" threads here and elsewhere, one caught my attention. Decided to first have my no cranking problems, always Battery Tended battery load tested. At two different places. Bad cell. New one is on the way- can't wait to see if this was the cause. Will update either way so that others might benefit.
  20. Yeah, that's going to be a bad time, fraught with peril. If experts turned you down, there's a reason. For this you need an SMD rework station, not a normal soldering iron. I have one, and still hate doing it. I think my station was $200 and it was a "cheap" Chinese import. Oh, found it: https://smile.amazon.com/Aoyue-968A-Digital-Rework-Station/dp/B077PYCYQR/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=Smd%2BRework%2BStation&qid=1606772956&sa-no-redirect=1&sr=8-8&th=1 Youtube it and see if you want to take it on.
  21. Here they are, just snapped a pic of them. The strip on the left is the ones I bought, Sloan SMD-WPLCC-02 is the name.
  22. LED lights are never coated or use lenses to change color, because that doesn't really work. The spectrum of LEDs is nothing at all like a true white light, and indeed, there's no such thing as a white LED nor white light from an LED. You just perceive it what way after light has been passed through phospors, or combined as RGB. But it's still a very broken spectrum, so lenses don't work. If you have a red lens, like in a tail light, then you must use a red LED, not white. For yellow/amber, obviously, match that color. There is actually a difference between them but I bet they
  23. It would be kinda cool to have the cluster look stripped down I agree Forgot to ask - I bought 3 packs of 3528 SMD LEDs (PLCC2), rated at different intensity - 1000, 1200, 2000. Any idea if the 2000 mcd intensity would be too much, causing hotspots of light?
  24. So I decided to change the orange lights in my cluster, and also change the "old" rev gauge face with the new one, the one with blue strip. Bought the late model cluster for that, if this whole operation goes well I'll sell it. I took the clusters apart, the rev gauge faces are made from pretty solid cardboard material, with halftone pattern printed on the bottom side, to disperse the light from those 2 bulbs that light up the rev gauge. So my idea of designing my own gauge face was nulled, I don't think any aftermarket guy doing gauges can make them on such precise level, and I p
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