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  2. superhawk996

    Could get on this morning

    Could get on this morning By blackhawkxx, October 28 in Board Tech Issues & Help Me too, so glad it works flawlessly every day!
  3. Today
  4. rockmeupto125

    On Craigslist 02 $3350

    Get that poor thing on a truck to RacerXX............fly in and ride it!
  5. John01XX

    Motivation frame slider install

    They are a decent fit but yes a dab of silicone has kept my set in place for over 10 years now.
  6. superhawk996

    Cool Ford 7.3 diesel mod.

    I think AE is currently a bit over $500. I can't imagine that using the additives would then force them to always be used. My guess is that once your injectors are sticky enough to need help from the additive they might require that you treat each oil change just to maintain them and keep them from sticking again. I've read where some people only used it once to free up the injectors then didn't on the next oil change without problems. If I had a 6.0 with cold stick I'd do an additive. I did use the Archoil on mine early on before realizing that they're different beasts. Archoil advertises a money back guarantee on the stuff and when it didn't work I got to test that. I can say that they do at least stand behind their product. I've thought about a coolant filter, but mine has bigger problems to address so extra stuff is going to take a back seat. I did a coolant flush and changed to the red long life stuff, mostly because I was chasing oil or fuel in the coolant and couldn't figure out which one it was. After the flush the petroleum stopped so apparently it was leftovers from a previous repair and they hadn't flushed it all out. It has the sticky injectors, leaks a lot of oil, and a bit of PS fluid, but for 428K miles I can't bitch. Blowby seems non-existent and other than the cold injector stick it runs great. I took it to go shooting Sunday morning so I connected the block heater to a timer to start warming it at 4am, fired up great at 7:30 and as a bonus I had some heater love right from the start. I didn't wanna leave it plugged in all night sucking up 1000watts of juice. I've heard of the billet dipstick tube thing and yea, pay for the part or deal with the difficult repair. I keep thinking I need to do something to mine preemptively, when they decide to go they're often a flood of oil. Having the EGR delete on your 6.0 is a good thing being that it's one of the top killers of them.
  7. blackhawkxx

    Motivation frame slider install

    Do you silicon them on John?
  8. John01XX

    Motivation frame slider install

    Yea they were selling like hotcakes back in the day! Back then I worked for a large manufacturing plant that gave me free access to CNC machines and robotics. No setup fees or program writing costs plus the aluminum material was very cheap. I made up and sold over 500 pairs of them but the last run of 50 pairs took me over a year to sell out. I no longer work for that company so they are no more 😞 I also made up some cool aluminum frame plugs that also matched the dimpled fairing bolts. I still have a few of them left over except that as a set of four I only have 3 ! I am missing the smaller plug on the left side. If someone has them installed like I do on my bird and loose one, if it is not the left small one I have replacements for the other three! Here is a pic of the partial set of three.
  9. Yesterday
  10. sluggo49

    Cool Ford 7.3 diesel mod.

    The AE was about $360 when I bought it. No idea what they want now. It has saved me at least 10 times that in parts and service expense and has made me pretty popular with the folks around here who have powerstrokes. I've seen some stuff on Torque Pro and thought I might get it. But I don't have an Android phone I'm reluctant to begin using HotShot or other additives because from what I've heard, once you start, you have to keep on with it until you get new injectors. If I start having run-time problems with stiction, I'll probably try some while waiting for a set of injectors. I thought about the AIS but haven't had any problems with the stock airbox. And it's not real dusty around here, anywayI always use Motorcraft filters (fuel, oil, air). The oil filters for the 7.3 at walmart are only $10. No discernable blowby using the oil filler cap test. On the 6.0, a previous owner had put on a Banks airbox and filter. From what I've read about the 6.0, the stock filter outperforms all the aftermarket stuff until you go to big HP mods. So I traded my Banks for a stock airbox and stuck in a brand new filter. I priced a new oem box. It was around $500 if I recall. The filter itself was pretty expensive, but it seems to last forever. I put coolant bypass filters on both PSDs. Not sure the 7.3 needs one, but it's cheap insurance. The 6.0 definitely needs one 'cause the oil cooler passages are so small. I also changed out the turbo pedestal on the 7.3 to get rid of the leaking EBP servo. Other than that, no mods. I did have an oil leak at the pan where the dipstick enters. It was not just a drip, either. So I got one of those billet dohickeys that replace the oem dipstick/pan interface and put it in. It works well but I think they got me for about $300. Still cheaper than pulling the engine or cutting the crossmember when you consider downtime as part of the expense. My 6.0 just has an egr delete installed by a previous owner. On trips I monitor the oil temp versus coolant temp since it's possible to have a catastrophic overheating situation with no warning from the stock instruments. I've toyed with the notion of just putting gauges in to monitor those items, but I'd rather work on my bikes. I did a fair amount of research before I got my 6.0 and decided it would have to be an '06 or '07 for the reasons you mentioned. It was a high mileage truck, but that doesn't bother me much with a diesel. The FTE forum has been a great place for me to learn. As far as youtube goes, the only guy I've found who is straight up and very helpful is dieseltechron. Unfortunately he was killed in an accident a year or two back. I don't know if anyone has stepped up to fill his shoes.
  11. Last week
  12. DBLXX

    Sport bike lift

    I had one - it was great.
  13. Zero Knievel

    Sport bike lift

    That band is still popular over there?
  14. Helvet

    Sport bike lift

    I am the importer for ABBA products in the Netherlands, and it does work great. However, it is a little expensive overhere. Your USA prices are quite good actually.....
  15. Why not use adjustable bars? Then you can choose how much up and how much closer you want the bars. I prefer the Gilles Tooling VaioBars for that reason, but there are others like ABM/Spiegler and BKG.
  16. blackhawkxx

    Headlight upgrade

    You can always add more lights.
  17. superhawk996

    Headlight upgrade

    Yup. Any time you reduce other loads the R/R has to work harder.
  18. FTM

    Headlight upgrade

    One question about LED lights and circuit issues - is it true that putting LED's on a Bird results in significant drop in load of the circuit, making rectifier work hard to dissipate the excess and leading to faster failure?
  19. redxxrdr

    Motivation frame slider install

    Sorry that they are dirty John. No time to clean after the storms.
  20. tomek

    Motivation frame slider install

    It is not aimed at XX but I would not put slider mounted to the frame or engine mount on the bike. On the race track I`ve seen them basically destroying the frame and cylinder head . They do work in tip overs and slow speed spills , but have potential of cousing much greater damage in more serious crashes . My track bike has sliders/protectors on booth ends of the crankshaft , and clutch cover . And tank covers becouse it is Yamaha .
  21. snowranger

    Motivation frame slider install

    I've considered both options and I'm convinced there's no single best solution to protecting the bike. In my 15 years of riding on various bikes I've probably had five or six of those extremely humbling "tip overs". Low speed and awkward situations that leave me with the bike on my leg instead of under my butt. And one real boner at about 25 mph. that cost me ribs, collarbone and collapsed lung. Oh yeah and lots of damage to the machinery. So with my skill at falling over I think I need the help of the sliders. Just didn't want to drill the holes only to find no way to put everything back together. Are there others out there who've used silicone to keep the spacer between the frame and the engine block on the throttle side in place when the bolt is removed. Sounds a little iffy to me.
  22. John01XX

    Motivation frame slider install

    You don't "need" either. The shrooms were designed to protect the side plastics in the case of a tip over or dropped bike while stopped or moving very slowly such as turning in a parking lot. The sliders are designed to protect the plastics in a low side crash. Personally i haven't seen much of an advantage to having frame sliders in the event of a "street" crash. On the track were bike often just slide to a stop is where they are most effective. The Shrooms only provide protection if the bike tips over when stopped or at, pushing the bike speeds. Most track bike have sliders and so it is cool to have them on your street bike. In my experience I have always slipped and dropped my bike at least once trying to back up or stopping on uneven surfaces. I have owned my new FJR over a year now and did drop it once turning around at a park with a spot of soft sand that washed the front tire out from under me! Most people did not want to drill holes in factory plastics for the frame sliders. As a result Jaws created the "Shrooms". Just my opinion.
  23. sluggo49

    Motivation frame slider install

    Those sound like they'd be too pretty to use for their intended purpose. In any case, do you need a 'shroom if you have a slider?
  24. John01XX

    Motivation frame slider install

    I use to carry some very cool looking aluminum shrooms that were milled to the same shape and design of the dimpled fairing bolts. Sold out many years ago and never had any more made up due to lack of demand.
  25. superhawk996

    Cool Ford 7.3 diesel mod.

    You can run 5-40 year round in the 7.3, probably in the 6.0 too. It's a bit more spendy, but not crazy. Walmart has the Rotella T-6 for $20/gal. and there's often rebates available. Walmart also has the Motorcraft filters pretty cheap and it's highly recommended to run them. Have an oil analysis at 5k and you'll likely find that you can go much further safely, or just read other people's analysis and make a semi informed decision. HotShot and Archoil additives, along with some others, are said to free up the spool valves on a 6.0. 5-40 may do the trick without additives. With 15-40 my injectors would stick below 80 degrees, with 5-40 they're pretty good to about 65, but it's a totally different deal compared to the 6.0 injectors. AE seems to be the holy grail and I'd love to have one, but they're spendy. I spent about $60 on Torque Pro, the dongle, & a cheapo tablet. If you have an android phone or radio you can use them as the 'gauge cluster'. The only thing I couldn't see is the injector pulse width, but I didn't try to figure out why it wouldn't just work. I might try at some point. It's nice to know that the ICP and other control stuff is doing the right thing. My main thing is to watch the trans temp when I'm towing my boat, at 13k lbs and over 13' tall it's a hearty load. The transmission programming in the '02 is pretty smart and it seems to keep the temp in check without my input, earlier ones weren't as good. The 6.0 auto is said to be pretty bulletproof, and it has a much bigger cooler than the 7.3. If not for the emissions crap the 6.0 would be the better choice over all. That engine is great once you address the things that will kill it, the trans is great, the truck is newer & nicer. The later 6.0, like your '06, is a bit better than the early ones. Mapmod: the 7.3 will de-fuel at around 25psi boost, safety thing. If your exhaust pressure gets that high and you do the mod it'll de-fuel cutting back your peak power. AE should let you see your EBP so you'll know if you'll be hitting that before you do the mod. I don't think a stocker will, but different people report different boost and EBP with supposedly stock engines. Another way to fool the MAP is with a resistor instead of connecting it to the EBP tube. There's other super cheap power mods like putting a resistor in the oil temp sensor line, resistor in the ICP line, and others. A highly recommended longevity mod for the 7.3 is a Ford AIS air filter. The stock air boxes tend to become leaky. If the box is good and you have a good filter they do a fine job, the AIS is a 'severe duty' system with a finer high capacity filter. Might be the only cool looking high capacity thing we can legally have in California.
  26. Zero Knievel

    Motivation frame slider install

    Cracked plastic held together with duct tape or bad rashing looks worse.
  27. Zero Knievel

    Motivation frame slider install

    Great image. Shroom is good...both is better, IMHO. I've lowsided and BOTH really took the brunt of the fall for the XX. Cheaper to replace too.
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