OMG Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 I have non OEM wheels on the bird and cleaning them and changing the front sprocket I noticed that the rear sprocket is bolted solid. It does have cush bushings in the hub but the plate that secures it clamps it tight. Changing the front, I noticed the trans spline drive is wearing, could that be caused by having the rear bolted solid? I did assemble the front with an o-ring behind and a liberal coat of Moly paste. Perhaps I should cut a spacer to give the rear sprocket some wiggle room? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Is your countershaft sprocket OEM? It too will have a built in rubber damper. I went to a after market sprocket the last time I did a chain to go up a tooth. I doesn't have the damper. But I would go back to OEM if I noticed wear. Not all replacement parts are the same quality. I can't tell you if running without Cush drive at the rear would cause the problem. But, I bet replacing the counter shaft drive means a transmission tear down. I think I would replace that front sprocket soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Front sprocket was original and has worn splines. I went after market up one tooth as well, it fits much tighter. From my BMW experience, spline drives should always be lubed with Moly. I installed the Pro-oiler 25K ago and the chain is still good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 The front sprocket does have some free play from the factory. It is meant to float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Sliding on the shaft yes, what I meant was that it had rotation independent of the shaft. And there is visible wear marks on the shaft. Most of the wear seems to be the sprocket. The new sprocket is tighter and lubed so it should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 On May 21, 2016 at 6:13 AM, OMG said: I have non OEM wheels on the bird and cleaning them and changing the front sprocket I noticed that the rear sprocket is bolted solid. It does have cush bushings in the hub but the plate that secures it clamps it tight. This don't sound right at all. The part that the sprocket bolts to is also bolted to the wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) On 5/22/2016 at 10:11 AM, superhawk996 said: This don't sound right at all. The part that the sprocket bolts to is also bolted to the wheel? Depending on the wheel, yes. However, there is usually a rubber donut washer/bushing that will allow a little flex, similar to a factory cush-drive, but much less. My Dy-mag wheels were like that. Edited May 25, 2016 by jon haney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 No, there is suppose to be space to allow the sprocket to move independent of the hub within the confines of the cush washers. The plate that captures the sprocket clamps it tight, possibly because the sprocket is too thick, not by much though. I cleaned it all up and greased the sprocket so it may work. I think I have a similar system as the Dy-mag wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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