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pAIR removal. Anyone remember the process?


redxxrdr

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My 01 started running real rough, intermittently.

Time for plug change.

Then I remembered that I have a pair block off kit from Rich.

It is an early one, and I think the plates need a recess ground in it for some reason.

So, what hoses need to be removed?

Are there seals under the pair valves that are used on the block off plates? Or do I do RTV?

It looks like there will be one hose removed from the breather box, then capped.

Does anyone remember?

Edit,

Also,

My bike is stock, in the engine department.

I don't see a power commander, or non-stock exhaust in my future.

So do I have anything to gain, by doing the block Offs?

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Edited by redxxrdr
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I personally believe that it gives more performance due to the fact that valve over lap between the exhaust going out and the intake coming in that without the pairs it increases the pull on the intake charge instead of pulling fresh air into the exhaust. It also makes plug changes much easier.

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I personally believe that it gives more performance due to the fact that valve over lap between the exhaust going out and the intake coming in that without the pairs it increases the pull on the intake charge instead of pulling fresh air into the exhaust. It also makes plug changes much easier.

I never considered there to be a performance gain potential thinking only about the little bit of air being pumped into the exhaust, but the overlap pulse makes sense. Damn, now there's something else I gotta do to my bike.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Craig, I Have the PAIR blockoffs on my old gal. She is opened up too, for a while. WhenI get home later this week I will look and see if I remember any mods I had to do.

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  • 2 months later...

Injection Birds can just switch off pair -if that is what you want. I wanted to see what and when it actually did, allowing that you could gain almost 500 bhp and be 20 years younger by doing away with it. The little mod showed me that it functioned only at very low rpm <1500 and overrun and were switched off by the ecu at all times above that. For dyno use I left the circuit in place. The lambda sensor can also be switched for dyno. I split the circuits at the ecu for tidyness with the leds on the bar. Ignore translogic refs they are for a powershifter

.ecu_changes.thumb.jpg.903fc2b85a2c562743

The leds just show when pair is enabled and demanded by the ecu (green activated, red ecu asking for pair but manually switched off)WIRE_ALTERED.thumb.jpg.4e93ed7389acb216f

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If it's true that they impede power by effecting the pulse during overlap, blocking them nearest as possible to the ports would be more effective than just shutting the valve off.

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For ecu Birds the pair switches off at the point that the ecu switches to using the lambda readings for fueling. (Otherwise the ecu would just keep making the fueling richer to allow for the excess air in the exhaust.) This is for very little time in the useage cycle. So for most of the time the presence of pair is not adding air but it may still theoretically affect pulsing to an incredibally minor degree.If it does then Superhawk996 is right. If anyone believes that their riding is restricted by this ultra minute possibility then do as you please. I have never been in the situation when the functioning presence of pair has had any effect. If every possible weight saving has been done and every performance mod applied and rider excess weight has been eliminated and skin tight leathers are used (the list is endless) then I doubt anyone would gain a practical advantage without pair - but whatever floats your boat. At least it is always a topic for a forum.

 

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After doing a lot of reading about the PAIR the consensus seems to be that there are no performance gains to be had.  Reasons it gets removed: Dyno tuning, must eliminate that extra air that might mess with exhaust readings.  Backfire with aftermarket exhaust, eliminating the afterburn keeps popping down.  Weight, if you're in the ounces = pounds club then I guess it's helpful.  Easier to work on the bike, eliminating as much stuff as possible does make getting to other stuff easier.  Looks, on some bikes it is visible and might be considered ugly.  Reasons to keep it intact: emissions.  I'm no tree hugger, but I try not to do any mod that doesn't help me and hurts the environment.

 

I gutted the exhaust on my 999 and I'm probably the only guy who's done it and retained the catalytic converters.  Why?  It had to have some amount of baffling so I might as well use the baffles that do something positive.  Also, the pipes are carefully tuned to have the cats, oddball asymmetrical exhaust system.  Eliminating the cats will mess with the balance between the cylinders, a pretty well proven effect with any slip-on system.  The exhaust on mine sounds closer to a full balanced system than a slip-on and it runs great.  I think it has more power, but the assometer is easy to fool, and it definitely smoothed it out some.  Something I wouldn't believe if I hadn't experienced it, it starts quicker and idles better than before.

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  • 1 month later...

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