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Rear brake Q&A


runner

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I rode the CBXX to work yesterday (rare 40 degrees !). Leaving from work to return home I was certain I had a rear flat. The back was just really dragging. I pulled out of traffic & the rear disc was piping hot & the Double EE's were literally smoking. Ouch!

Anyways, the pads are at 75% new & the bike is maintained very well (stored in heated garage).

Help!

The first thoughts are the pad slider pins need checking or somehow dirt made its way into the caliper cups (need cleaning and/or replacing. Recommendations?

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Master cylinder fluid return hole is gunked up and caliper pistons most likely have the chalky residue around the seals binding and not releasing smoothly. Disassemble, clean, replace as necessary. Find a buddy and buy a 12 pack....this can be done easily on Saturday afternoon.... :)

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First thing I would do is open the bleeder to see if fluid squirts out under pressure. I would look at the slide pins next. Always check out the easy things first and like was said, remember the XX has linked brakes which adds more things to go wrong.

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Some of the Honda ST1300's (which have linked brakes also) had a recall on the secondary master cylinder because it wouldn't release, thus causing a fluid/pressure on one of the pots of the rear brake. Mine locked up in Tellico Plains, which is approx. 30 miles from my house. I used a wrench to loosen the bleeder fitting for that pot, which relieved the rear brake pressure and then had to ride home very carefully....not using the front brake again. Mine got so hot that it actually melted the bottom of the Honda saddlebag. Honda replaced the secondary master, the rear brake disc, rear pads, and the bottom of the saddlebag, in addition to a complete brake service for the entire bike's braking system........all under warranty.

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Hi runner.ive had the slider pin that has the bolt head (the one that sits just under the brake hose)stick on my bike before.it was covered in crud.took a bit to get it out .cleaned it up and coated it with caliper grease and no more sticking brake

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I ride mine pretty much like it is maintenance-free when it comes to things like brake maintenance, etc. manual calls for replacing fluids every 12K or 24 months. So far with 76K miles I have done it once. The day will come when that happens to me, too.

Point I'm trying to make is this is a good time to get hold of your manual, read the brake section, order all the little parts, get a vacuum bleeder and spend a day going over your whole system.

A little bottle of caliper pin grease will last you decades, btw.

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Today's update...I have greased the caliper slider, pulled & cleaned the secondary MC, checked the pads, removed, cleaned & reattached the secondary MC for wear left (All good).

Anyways, when I actuate the rear brake pedal I see the middle piston protrude & then retract smoothly. So, it's the linked garbage that's causing the binding. As referenced above, I will next use the Mityvac to change the fluid (it's been a while) & see if that cures the ailments. (I do use a shop manual & am strict about maintenance ... 2 birds owned w/ about 85 +k combined miles on them over the years. First time I have had this issue!).

Quick question- is there a secondary MC return hole? (Which could be gunked up)

If not, would the return hole in the primary MC (handlebar mounted) possibly be plugged up? I want to be sure to address this when it's opened up for the fluid change.

thanks

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You sanded down, cleaned, and greased BOTH sliders right? I'm always checking to make sure the caliper and bracket can slide apart easily when I separate them. Usually one slider is okay, but the other one gets gunked up a little more and trends to stick.

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