EVLXX Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Thanks for the info, Poida. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CALCXX Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Eric, last month I replaced the stator and reg on my #2 - 98XX. I bought Ricks Motorsports also. I bought what they call the OEM set since I don't have any add ons that need the higher wattage/extra current. It measures 14.3 volts @ 5000rpm also. I could see the regulator switch reducing voltage to 13.3v. At idle, it would it measured 12.4 When the R/R failed on my #1 XX about three years ago,, I replaced it with a 99 R-1 regulator and it has been working well. I had two DC amprobes at the time and watched the positive charge / negative current shunted to ground since there were so many reports of connector heat failure at the negative pin on the 97-98 XX. (my connector was darkened also) Measured 19 amps of current shunted @ high rpm. I think that is too much for the single conductor path (can't remember the wire size). I think they added another wire in 99? not sure. I have about 1K miles on the #2 XX Stator/RR replacement now and I'm riding all of Washington next week with the Northwest crowd. It should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Well... I don't think the Ebay Reg/Rec purchase was all that great of a deal after all.... The short of it is... I don't think the bike is properly charging. Since I have kept the battery off of the Battery Tender... the riding voltage as dropped from above posted numbers, and my HID headlight continues to flash on and of at idle... which is extremely annoying at a traffic light, and I've even had the HID unit turn off.... very frustrating. (although this might be a loose connection.) At idle the voltage reads 12.4V..... So..... I guess I'm going to buy a NEW Reg/Rec... and pray it solves the problem. http://www.roadstercycle.com/ At least I already have all the mounting and wiring done.... right. LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Finally... Problem Solved! The HID headlight was flickering on and off almost constantly at idle, so much so that it would eventually just turn off. I was thinking it was a loose connection in the headlight system, but this was not the case. Low Voltage was... If I kept the bike off of the Battery tender, then eventually the running voltage reading would drop down into the 12's and stay there. Only breaking into the 13's above 4K rpm. Not good. Not to mention the bike was running like Crap and misfiring here and there all the time... which I was starting to think was Bad gas, low octane, etc... nope. Just Low Voltage. So after getting the "New" FH020AA regulator this weekend from Roadstercycle.com I decided to run a test on the Old "R1 regulator" again just to see what was going on. So after fully charging the battery.. I pulled these voltage numbers.. 12.1V @ 1K 12.6V @ 2K 13.1V @ 3K 13.4V @ 4K 13.6V @ 5K Not good. So, I installed the "NEW" regulator (FH020AA) and retested.... 12.1V @ 1K 12.5V @ 2K 13.1V @ 3K 12.9V @ 4K 13.1V @ 5K WTF OVER ! So I grab the wires going to the Regulator, and they are HOT. FUCK, Bad contacts. You mean to tell me it's been a problem with the connections ever since I put the R1 regulator on... Well Maybe. So even though I soldered on the connectors last time, I decided to put new connectors on the Stator wires, dry, no solder, put everything back together and retest. BINGO!!!! 12.9V @ 1K 13.6V @ 2K 13.7V @ 3K 13.7V @ 4K 13.7V @ 5K Success !!! I rode the Bike in to work this morning, and Wow... It's so smooth, purrs like a Kitten again.... NICE! What a pain in the Ass. Now... back to your regularly scheduled programing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 You are very good at solving self inflicted problems . I simply pulled pins out of stator`s connector and run them directly to R1 regulator . No problems at all in the last 40 k miles and as matter of fact I just checked my voltage , pretty much same as yours . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwimack Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 waiting for replacement's ricks stator and R/R from Amazon. $219.20 shipped for both. Maybe tomorrow, or maybe not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwimack Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 waiting for replacement's ricks stator and R/R from Amazon. $219.20 shipped for both. Maybe tomorrow, or maybe not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 1.You are very good at solving self inflicted problems . 2.I simply pulled pins out of stator`s connector and run them directly to R1 regulator . No problems at all in the last 40 k miles and as matter of fact I just checked my voltage , pretty much same as yours . 1. Correct, when you take on the challenge of doing everything yourself, hands on, learning etc.... yes, almost Every problem is self inflicted. I revel in both the challenge and the accomplishment. It's a personal thing. 2. Exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLyFoXX Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Been reading through, replaced my RR as it was steady at 14.95 and wires and connectors were either brittle or burnt / melted. Now testing indicate the following: Not running or key on - 13.1v Key on - 12.6v Motor running - 14.2 steady up to 5k for 2 - 3 minutes, stopped testing The OEM stater wires are hot, but not so much that I can not touch and hold them - the new wires no temperature change Thoughts on potential problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Look like very good numbers all the way around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Expect heat from the stator wires. Lots of juice flowing through them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLyFoXX Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Look like very good numbers all the way around I assumed the volts would drop to 13 v or so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 (edited) The voltage does not drop as the battery charges. The amperage drops as the battery charges up. The no load voltage of a fully charged battery is about 13VDC. For charging it the charging-system should provide a voltage of about 14.4 VDC and this should be a constant voltage at all engine speeds with the exception of idle speeds being lower. Edited May 10, 2015 by John01XX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLyFoXX Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 My assumptions are based on the above attachment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 image.jpg My assumptions are based on the above attachment Your chart readings and your actual voltage readings are very similar. At idle if your are getting 14.2vdc, it is slightly higher than the norm. At most any RPM above 2500 you should see a steady voltage of between 13.4 and 14.6 to maintain the operating load of the bike and at the same time recharge the battery back up to 12.8 - 13.2vdc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 14.6 is excessive and 13.4 is just above a minimal maintenance charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I am holding a steady 14.2V, at the end of last yr and early this yr it never went above 14.1V all this talk makes me watch my meter even more and see about getting my stator redone before my bike his the big 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 I haven't checked the bird in a while but it was 14ish at anything above idle when I did check. My Duc runs about 13.7 almost always on the factory meter, don't know where it's reading from so some day I'll check at the battery just to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Done... pictures explian a lot.2006 Yamaha R1 Reg/Rec.I made a mounting plate out of a sheet of 0.100 thick aluminum, to help with the cooling since I knew I was going to have to cut the cooling fins down to make it fit under the body panels. There was a lot of on-off, on-off, with the part and panels to get just the right fit.I got it all done, and at first it was Not charging. I found the problem to be the 6 plug connectot contacts. After taking it apart, cleaning and tightening up all the connectors, it now charges perfectly.This mornings ride to work yeilded voltage reading from 12.4 - 14.2V. Perfect. Do you have a pic of the base plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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