2fast4love Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I have tried to search the forums and ask questions to do my homework...but I am still a bit fuzzy on this: What is the "best" way to improve (raise slightly) the handlebar position on my 97 BB? I believe if I could bring my bar height up 1-2" and maybe slightly back, it would give me a better/more comfortable riding postion. I have seen reference to both VFR bars and heli bars as solutions and also risers. I want to retain original controls , cables etc. I have seen the "new and improved" heli bars out there for sale, but only at full retail $279.00. Anyone seen the new style for less? Is the new style ("low profile fork tube clamp with single 8 mm pinch bolt") better than the old style with 2 bolts? VFR bars fitment seems to depend on the year and require some modifications? Any suggestions are appreciated - thanks a ton! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01xxallen Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I have the old style Heli bars on mine, plus I bought a set of VFR bars, and never installed them. I looked at the product page for the new Heli's and I'm not sure why they're "improved". But, IMO, there are several factors to keep in mind. My Heli's did not require any mods to the hoses and cables, but the clutch line is very tight. Next time I get into the fairing, I'll look at the clamp on the frame, I hear I can turn it and relieve some of the tension. You will feel a big improvement by also lowering the pegs. Having your legs bent puts more pressure on your back and thus, makes you feel like you're hunched over more. Try this, sit on the bike on he center stand. Feet on the floor, reaching the bars is no problem. Put your feet on the pegs and the reach seems father. I don't think there is any real difference between the VFR and the Heli's other than cosmetic. Some think the VFR bars look more natural. (Honda-style) I wonder if anyone has used VFR Heli's on a XX? Seems like it would make a big difference. Cable mods would be required. Be aware that if you go too tall, the windshield and fairing will come into play as you make a tight turn. The real cure is the LSL conversion. But, then as you're sitting up, you'll have more wind on your torso. When I first get on the bike I feel like I'm laying on the tank. 5 miles later, I feel like I'm sitting up. I should just ride the bike more. (and lose a bunch of weight.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I have tried to search the forums and ask questions to do my homework...but I am still a bit fuzzy on this: What is the "best" way to improve (raise slightly) the handlebar position on my 97 BB? I believe if I could bring my bar height up 1-2" and maybe slightly back, it would give me a better/more comfortable riding postion. I have seen reference to both VFR bars and heli bars as solutions and also risers. I want to retain original controls , cables etc. I have seen the "new and improved" heli bars out there for sale, but only at full retail $279.00. Anyone seen the new style for less? Is the new style ("low profile fork tube clamp with single 8 mm pinch bolt") better than the old style with 2 bolts? VFR bars fitment seems to depend on the year and require some modifications? Any suggestions are appreciated - thanks a ton! You're trying to make the bike fit your requirements.....so its purely subjective. Helibars may fit Clyde's needs best, but VFR bars may fit Elroy's needs better. So there's really no way to answer your question. The best answer I can give you is to get your tail to one of the meets where you can check out lots of other XX's that have a variety of mods. One other note. You can take the safety clip off the forks, loosen the clip-on, slide it up the fork tube and retighten to spec. That may give you an idea if higher bars will help you. Properly tightened, they won't slip, and the operation is both reversible and free. Many folks run like this permanently. Try it. You can generally retain the original cables with the helibars or VFR bars, but not both. Sometimes its necessary to take the clutch pipe retention bolt out of the left side of the frame head, and sometimes its necessary to cut the locator for the front brake hose, loosen slightly, and rotate the hose end to achieve that little bit more length. And as always when working with your controls, check for proper operation including throttle opening and closing at full left and right turn after you're done making adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01xxallen Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 sometimes its necessary to cut the locator for the front brake hose, loosen slightly, and rotate the hose end to achieve that little bit more length. Heli has you do this in their instructions. It's easy, but hard to explain without seeing it. I used a Dremel to lop off this nub on the clutch master cylinder. I never disconnected the fluid line, so I didn't need to bleed the line. Since the nub is under the master cylinder, sloppy work doesn't show. If you took the clutch cylinder completely off, you could do a nice job, but then you'd worry about metal shavings getting inside, and having to bleed the system. A touch of black paint covers the modification. Really, I'm no mechanic, although I can grasp the concept. The entire project took me two hours. The hardest part was getting the screw thingys out of the stock bars to use in the new bars. Oh, and brake fluid is bad for the tank paint, so go easy and you won't drip any. Towels are your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strek Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 The VFR bars look just like the stock XX bars. They are just higher than the stock XX bars. They add about 3/4 - 1 " in height. They are angled a little better as well. The heli bars that I have seen offer about the same amount of rise. I think the VFR bars look better myself due to the stock look. You need 2002 or later VFR bars. You do not need to change out the clutch or brake lines for the VFR bars. You do have to cut off one of the tabs on the master cylinders This allows the clutch and brake lines to rotate to a better position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast4love Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thank you for all the valuable opinions on this topic. Based on the comments and some "deep thought" over a few beers, I decided to go with stock VFR bars and am very happy with the decision. I was looking for a nice used set for some time, but not having much luck, so I explored new ones. Ended up running across a few very good online sources that had full exploded view diagrams of OEM parts. The lowest costs were generally from Powersports Plus - for 03 VFR left bar (PN5315-MCW-D00) was $109.34. For right side (PN: 53100-MCW-D00) was $116.24. Still a fair amount of $ but I plan to ride this bike till I'm dead, so a I justified the cost of new. A few install comments/observations for any other rookies (like me) that can benefit from it: * Out of the gate, I had a little trouble with the retainer rings at the top of the fork tube. Thanks to a few of the members for posting suggestions (and some better lighting) I was able to see the split ring better and pop them out. * Left side: Used very thin cut off wheel on die grinder to deeply score the retainer tab on the clutch handle housing. Then a mild tap with a hammer and punch and it snapped off clean. Was able to peel back the OE grip and reuse it. Otherwise this side seemed to go failry well. * Right side: Could not quite figure out how to get both throttle cables off. Figured out that if I removed the bar from the fork and just slipped the bar in toward the windshield, I did not even have to mess with it. The grip and insert assembly for this side were not affected so I reused them also. The brake line was a bit tight, but I loosened the lower line clamp on the front fork and moved the line up about an inch, and it fit nice. * General: The OE handlebar weights came out easier than I thought. A little WD40, sacrificial bolt clamped in a bench vice, a few good yanks and they came out. I mounted the new bars flush with the top of fork tubes for now to see how I like them. May move them up a bit if I want a bit more rise, but from what I can tell, this is exactly the solution I was looking for - thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 I went with VFR bars. I did the HEL line replacement earlier, so I only had to cut off one of the tabs on the brake master cylinder so I could put the brake line on at an angle that worked. FYI, if you ever replace brake lines, pay for an extra 2-3 inches on the clutch/front brakes so you never have to worry about mods later. Other than that, I had to loosen the upper clamp and gently hammer the front end down a fraction of an inch so that the retaining clip would go back in (VFR bars are a slight bit thicker than XX bars). Otherwise, it was very easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 I went with VFR bars. I did the HEL line replacement earlier, so I only had to cut off one of the tabs on the brake master cylinder so I could put the brake line on at an angle that worked. FYI, if you ever replace brake lines, pay for an extra 2-3 inches on the clutch/front brakes so you never have to worry about mods later. Other than that, I had to loosen the upper clamp and gently hammer the front end down a fraction of an inch so that the retaining clip would go back in (VFR bars are a slight bit thicker than XX bars). Otherwise, it was very easy. If you go with Galfer brake lines, they are already about 2" longer. No special order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 I went with VFR bars. I did the HEL line replacement earlier, so I only had to cut off one of the tabs on the brake master cylinder so I could put the brake line on at an angle that worked. FYI, if you ever replace brake lines, pay for an extra 2-3 inches on the clutch/front brakes so you never have to worry about mods later. Other than that, I had to loosen the upper clamp and gently hammer the front end down a fraction of an inch so that the retaining clip would go back in (VFR bars are a slight bit thicker than XX bars). Otherwise, it was very easy. If you go with Galfer brake lines, they are already about 2" longer. No special order. Well, you tell me that NOW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 I went with VFR bars. I did the HEL line replacement earlier, so I only had to cut off one of the tabs on the brake master cylinder so I could put the brake line on at an angle that worked. FYI, if you ever replace brake lines, pay for an extra 2-3 inches on the clutch/front brakes so you never have to worry about mods later. Other than that, I had to loosen the upper clamp and gently hammer the front end down a fraction of an inch so that the retaining clip would go back in (VFR bars are a slight bit thicker than XX bars). Otherwise, it was very easy. If you go with Galfer brake lines, they are already about 2" longer. No special order. Well, you tell me that NOW. LOL. I put them on like 8 or 9 years ago, so you probably just forgot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W.A.T. Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 For what it's worth, I removed my VFR Heli bars from my VFR800 before selling it and installed the tall VFR Heli bars on my BB. Stock lines are working but could use the longer ones. MRA windshield has no clearance issues. Love the way it fits me now. No problem bending my elbows should I need to get out of the wind for quick high speed run. I would recommend this mod to my friends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.