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Can I assume my Regulator/Rectifier went bad?


BarryG

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'98 XX...always on battery tender when parked at home. Always shows green. Battery is at least 3yrs old (when I got the bike).

Battery shows 12.9 DCV when parked/off. About 12.5 on at idle. Keeping steady at 4K or higher rpm.....I get maybe 12.8 and then it goes down...don't get over 13 DCV at anytime.

In July '08, I replaced RR with this one: http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/h...super-duty.html when stocker went bad. Can I assume this one has done the same?

Last weekend, the bike wouldn't kick over after riding it 25 miles. It's been on the charger ever since....it did start today when I did this test...but not easily.

Yeah I know there's that chart to check everything but I'm a tech idiot.....so figured I'd try and get a quick answer first.

Thanks for any replies.

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What I really want to do in this thread is just babble some BS, completely cut you down and belittle you tell you you're a total useless human being....obviously a total retard because you can't add 2+2 or realize that your RR is dead, besides the fact you can't use a voltmeter. All this completely unprovoked by you of course.

BUT....I'm not a total useless tool such as yourself and I'm not going to do that. I'll just simply pass over this thread...pretend it and you don't even exist. Why...because you're very small person and an even smaller man.

Been waiting to do that for about 2 years.

Over, done, carry on with your issue(s).

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Which also leaves the stator,I forget what to check and am too lazy to get the manual,but if its not charging-same problem.

And batteries don't care how old they are,they are not bread,they don't get moldy.I keep seeing this crap about replacing batteries because they are 5 years old,so I checked with the techs at work,as long as it charges up,holds a charge,loads tests good,load tests again good-its good! I have a 12 year old ytx9bs Yuasa battery in my hardly used CBR600,sometimes it goes 4-6 months without a charge,all winter it gets a charge every 3 weeks on a atender (3 batteries,rotate once a week)I just load tested in November,220 cca,12.7 volts way above normal for cca and it did not just come off the charger.It fires the bike up every time.

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What I really want to do in this thread is just babble some BS, completely cut you down and belittle you tell you you're a total useless human being....obviously a total retard because you can't add 2+2 or realize that your RR is dead, besides the fact you can't use a voltmeter. All this completely unprovoked by you of course.

BUT....I'm not a total useless tool such as yourself and I'm not going to do that. I'll just simply pass over this thread...pretend it and you don't even exist. Why...because you're very small person and an even smaller man.

Been waiting to do that for about 2 years.

Over, done, carry on with your issue(s).

Just reading this post made me horny. Wait minute...Dave is ONLINE??? Who'd have thunk it?

Which also leaves the stator,I forget what to check and am too lazy to get the manual,but if its not charging-same problem.

And batteries don't care how old they are,they are not bread,they don't get moldy.I keep seeing this crap about replacing batteries because they are 5 years old,so I checked with the techs at work,as long as it charges up,holds a charge,loads tests good,load tests again good-its good! I have a 12 year old ytx9bs Yuasa battery in my hardly used CBR600,sometimes it goes 4-6 months without a charge,all winter it gets a charge every 3 weeks on a atender (3 batteries,rotate once a week)I just load tested in November,220 cca,12.7 volts way above normal for cca and it did not just come off the charger.It fires the bike up every time.

I thought if the battery always shows green on the charger and puts out 12.9 DCV at rest then it can be ruled out? I just remember last time the RR went bad the same symptoms were present.

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http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=33318

If you have a voltmeter and it's not jumping between 13.5 and 15.5 when the bike's running, something's not right. Your RR is either bad or your stator...or both (presuming your voltmeter has a good connection...I get flumuxed on a trip when my voltmeter was reading badly and it was all because of a loose wire).

You have to just check the different terminals leading to the RR when the bike is off and when it's idling to see if the stator is good or not. If it is, your RR is bad. If your stator is bad, you gotta change it to see if the RR is okay.

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You really need to perform the tests in the given order to isolate your problem...

+1

When all is well, a voltmeter will let you know something's not right.

When you don't know what's acting up, you gotta follow the steps to troubleshoot the whole system. It's a bit of a pain, but it's the only way to be sure.

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I'm going to be the oddball and say the stator is bad, but only because you replaced the R/R already with a better unit.

How many miles since the replacement?

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I'm going to be the oddball and say the stator is bad, but only because you replaced the R/R already with a better unit.

How many miles since the replacement?

about 10K miles

If you put 10K on a R/R with a bad stator...check your R/R as well....just in case.

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I'm going to be the oddball and say the stator is bad, but only because you replaced the R/R already with a better unit.

How many miles since the replacement?

about 10K miles

If you put 10K on a R/R with a bad stator...check your R/R as well....just in case.

+1

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  • 2 weeks later...

I gotta tell something that I did one time, I had a non charging, stator, and had little if any magnetism, and hit it with a hammer, and it began working. sometimes the poles of a magnet get out of phase, and need realigning.

now that aught to get a reply.

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I got the flow chart so I'll just perform those steps listed there.....pain in the freakin' arse. :icon_evil:

Thanks.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53455

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  • 2 weeks later...

well went through the chart. Got to the part where I had to disconnect some of the wires from the RR connector. Couldn't figure how the fuck to get them loose......and was on the verge of breaking it.

So said fuck it and took it my mechanic. He barely charged me to look at it. After diag, said my aftermarket RR quit. Replaced it with a new one from Rick's I think. Bike charges like a champ now.

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well went through the chart. Got to the part where I had to disconnect some of the wires from the RR connector. Couldn't figure how the fuck to get them loose......and was on the verge of breaking it.

Only issue I have with aftermarket R/Rs. If they don't come with an adapter plug, most people just hard wire to the harness...messy.

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