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New Carrozzeria Wheels, mass produced forged bargains???


ralfybebedosekys

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Um, no. Just ask Jerry when he's sitting in puddles this coming February.

That's just wrong ! But it would make for great pictures & indoor pool.

Fuck you both. :wink:

On a related note.

I have a kawasaki Zephyr that I changed out the rims on. I installed a set of PM's without a cush drive. The dyno HP was 92 and some change before the switch, and 98+ afterwards. I made no changes to the engine during the wheel swap, and the weight savings between both sets of wheels/tires was about 23lbs. Now that everyones getting along, I hope that helps somehow. J

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(Wish I was like Randy and had both!) :lol:

HEE HEEE Ya you would wish you were me when I scope in on the eye of a fucking Coyote and pull the trigger!

Seriously Ralf, If you want to get the wheels, get them for looks and improved handling not for acceleration. Regear for that.

And these were only $750 OTD installed.

200311217765118957485449.jpg

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HEE HEEE Ya you would wish you were me when I scope in on the eye of a fucking Coyote and pull the trigger!

Hell yes, I wish I was smoke'n a Coyote with you!

Randy are those PM wheels? $750 OTD installed? Where might I ask?

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TOX I put the local "asshole" dealer togather. I had dealer cost directly from PM and ground the shit out of a dealer to get them for that price.

And Dave I have never had decals on the bike.

BTW Mr LEO :grin: I am a safe and lawbiding rider, :bigpuke: thats why the reflector is still there. :wink: and I use playing cards in the wheels to make it sound cool too! :mrgreen:

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The wisdom of the Dakota Indians, passed on from generation to generation says that "When you discover that you are riding a dead horse, the best strategy is to dismount." However, in modern business, education and government, a whole range of far more advanced strategies are employed:

1. Buying a stronger whip.

2. Changing riders.

3. Appointing a committee to study the horse.

4. Threatening the horse with termination.

5. Arranging to visit other countries to see how others ride dead horses.

6. Lowering the standards so that dead horses can be included.

7. Reclassifying the dead horse as living impaired.

8. Hiring outside contractors to ride the dead horse.

9. Harnessing several dead horses together to increase the speed..

10. Providing additional funding and/or training to increase the dead horse's performance.

11. Doing a productivity study to see if lighter riders would improve the dead horse's performance.

12. Declaring that as the dead horse does not have to be fed, it is less costly, carries lower overheads, and therefore contributes substantially more to the bottom line of the economy than do some other horses.

13. Rewriting the expected performance requirements for all horses.

14. Promoting the dead horse to a supervisory position.

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For God's sake. Can't we discuss something better than these stupid wheels and the asshole who wants a discount in the Garage. This arrogrant prick has received much more attention than he deserves.

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This Ralfy sounds like the kid in school who sat in the front row...

DAMNIT!!! WHERE ARE MY SPITWADS!!!

Ok shut the fuck up...we know you're smart. whupdeedoooo!!! :whogives:

get your nose out of the books and ride the damn bike!!!! I hear the weather is rather nice in San Fran right now. I'm jealous...i have a brand new 600RR sitting in my garage and it's too damn cold right now to ride it.

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  • 1 month later...

Back to the original question 4 pages ago... I assume it translates to cars and motorcycles too (from bicycles), but supposedly for every ounce of rotating mass you have, it's like putting an extra pound of weight on the bike (as far as acceleration is concerned anyway)

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Keep in mind that all I have to back this post up is reasoning... but on a bicycle, where the mass is 13" away from the center of rotation, you effectively add one pound of weight to the bike by adding one ounce to the rotating mass (13" radius away from the center, on a 26" diameter wheel), which is a ratio of 16:1. On motorcycle wheels, where the center radius of rotating mass that you are taking out is (guessing) about 1/3 as far out, call it 4 or so inches. This is only a 5.3:1 ratio. Meaning that for the 10lbs you take off the wheels, you are only effectively taking 53lbs off the accelerating weight of the bike. On a 700lb (with rider) bike, where actual rotating inertia is much more than that, this is not a big deal. Consider that the wheel/tire combo still weigh 30lbs each, with the center radius of rotating mass at about 9", making the ratio of rotating mass to effective bike weight about 10:1 , so the wheels just being there add about 600lbs (300/wheel) effective weight to the bike. Now, in tern, it would seem that taking the 53lbs of effective weight off of the effective 1300lb bike is now not such a big deal. This is not considering the rotating inertia of the engine/transmission as the HP number at the transmission output shaft takes care of that.

Looking at this, rockmeupto125 is correct that you are taking about a very small % difference... by my off-the-top-of-my-head calculations, that would be about a 4% reduction in effective accelorating mass. This might give you a tenth.

As rockmeupto125 also implied (at least I think he was implying this), this could make the bike less stable at high speeds, or realy any speeds for that matter.

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I believe you misunderstood my ramblings...

I said effective weight, meaning the weight the engine/drivetrain thinks it is pulling. Effective weight can be looked at like this... leaving rolling resistance asside... what I was saying was that... say you have a truck that's pulling this motorcycle on say a tow rope behind it, and an identical truck that has an identical motorcycle in the bed. The one with the motorcycle in the bed will accelorate faster because it does not have to spin the motorcycle wheels up to speed. What I was saying was that the two ideitical trucks would accelorate at the same rate assuming the one with the motorcycle in the bed was carrying an extra 600lbs in the bed with the bike. It is not that the wheel is actually getting heavier as it accelerates, it is that the engine is put under more load to spin up the extra weight. This is the case because the further out a weight is away from a center of rotation, the harder an engine has to work to spin it up.

I was always told that the reason drag racers used large diameter tires was to give a better contact patch for the launch. The better contact patch allows the tires to dissipate more heat, and therefore not melt down. The weight far away from the center of rotation is not as much of a problem for them because drag tires are very thin and light, and specificly drag racing wheels don't need to handle much in the way of side loads, so they can be designed to only take large forward/backword loads and use a thinner metal for the rim of the wheel.

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this is purely for entertainment value, eh? It is considered idle banter by its typist and offered tongue in cheek for your viewing pleasure or dis thereof.

Bart, he meant that, really :wink:

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yes, assuming everything I assumed while doing the calculations was correct... I'll tell you that the raduis of rotational mass isnt exactly right, so it might be a different amount of weight, but the principal is what I meant. Either way, the trailer and bike in the bed with no added weight, put in the back of the truck will be faster than the bike on the trailer rolling behind the truck

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HA! that's why it's called rambling, not school. But at least we both werent as bored at work.

In truth, there's a bit more to it than that, but to know the exact weight to put in the back of the truck to get the same performance, one would have to know the exact radius of mass of both the motorcycle and bicycle tires from the first post.

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How about identical weight trailers, one single-axled, and the other tandem? :roll:

I guess the term "rolling resistance" never crossed anybody's mind, eh? How about the word "friction"?

Better yet, how do tires warm up in a straight line? :???:

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