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lifting the bird


Hooplehead

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Wanting to remove the forks and swing arm. What's the easiest and best way to keep the bird off the ground? Thanks. -Shane

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Put it on the centerstand. Use a jack under the oil pan to lift the front. If possible strap it to the rafters above for stability.

Or spend $300 for the Harbor Freight lift. It's money well spent.

+1

except .... how does having it on a lift change the problem? still got to do all the other stuff, rafters, jack .............. is this a majic lift?

NBL bro

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Put it on the centerstand. Use a jack under the oil pan to lift the front. If possible strap it to the rafters above for stability.

Or spend $300 for the Harbor Freight lift. It's money well spent.

+1

except .... how does having it on a lift change the problem? still got to do all the other stuff, rafters, jack .............. is this a majic lift?

NBL bro

It allows you to anchor it down easier!

Listen just because you can hold the bike up in the air with one hand and work on it with the other doesn't make you special :icon_rolleyes:

:icon_biggrin:

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I was hoping that would work. Kinda nervous when I use the oil pan (it doesn't leak yet), but if it works, it works. I'll use the strap idea, too bad I gotta pull it off that rubber dick of yours airborne. You mind washing it for me, I'll cum get it tomorrow. fucking wang, I knew you'd have the answer!

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I like the rafter idea because its more stable than the "jack under the oil pan". What I have been doing is putting the bike on the center stand, pulling the seat off, and then putting a bar between the back of the tail section frame(where the seat lock is) and the ceiling of my garage, making sure I'm very close to one of the rafter boards. The bar I'm using is one of those things with the rubber pads on each end people can use in the bed of a truck to keep cargo from sliding around. It's like a turn-buckle in reverse and adjusts from about 5-7 feet. You could use a 2X4 cut to the right length and just wedge it in.

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this is the way I did it

Kinda hard to see, but use a engine hoist and strap on the frame mounts for the body sides. With a jack under the engine on the oilpan, was still unstable side to side on the center stand. I also used a strap on the rear subframe to a steel table leg at the floor. Maybe over kill, but I judge by the effort I put on the bolts to loosen or tighten and the direction of effort. It took all of the above to stabilize enough to stay in one place. Another thing is a piece of rubber under the centerstand feet to give it some traction.

It is never to much.

The lift even with all the possible tie downs and sizzor jack under the oil pan and blocks of wood, with both front and rear off at the same time.....pretty easy to loose it. Right Randy?

post-893-1204308539.jpg

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The lift even with all the possible tie downs and sizzor jack under the oil pan and blocks of wood, with both front and rear off at the same time.....pretty easy to loose it. Right Randy?

I still can't believe a Bird can be totaled falling off a lift but Randy proved me wrong. :icon_surprised:

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yikes, I guess it is okay to stabilize, but I would not lift via the frame mount posts, not much shear force needed to snap them off. :icon_whistle:

some soft wood with a floor jack - never had any issues on the pan.

Your right, just to tilt back where the rear is on the ground. When I tried to lift at the pan with a jack and wood block the angle tilted the bike off one of the center stand as the pan is not centered, the sump. When we did Porters front it worked better than it did for me on mine. The difference is the headers and the level of the pipe and the pan sump.

The way I have it in the picture, it is only a small amount of pressure on the lugs. 20 lbs at the most I would guess.

If I was going to take off the front and rear at the same time like Shane is and I had the equipment I have, I would use a chain lift and would remove the tank and body completely. Put straps around the frame on each side by the motor and around the sub frame where it attaches to the frame. Take the four straps together and come to the hook to lift. I would not use the engine hoist because the hydraulics bleed off over time and the chain hoist does not.

Man the quad was so much easier to deal with. Has a flat pan and frame rails underneath. I could set up on jack stands and did and remove everything.

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yikes, I guess it is Okay to stabilise, but I would not lift via the frame mount posts, not much shear force needed to snap them off. :icon_whistle:

some soft wood with a floor jack - never had any issues on the pan.

Your right, just to tilt back where the rear is on the ground. When I tried to lift at the pan with a jack and wood block the angle tilted the bike off one of the centre stand as the pan is not centred, the sump. When we did Porters front it worked better than it did for me on mine. The difference is the headers and the level of the pipe and the pan sump.

The way I have it in the picture, it is only a small amount of pressure on the lugs. 20 lbs at the most I would guess.

If I was going to take off the front and rear at the same time like Shane is and I had the equipment I have, I would use a chain lift and would remove the tank and body completely. Put straps around the frame on each side by the motor and around the sub frame where it attachés to the frame. Take the four straps together and come to the hook to lift. I would not use the engine hoist because the hydraulics bleed off over time and the chain hoist does not.

Man the quad was so much easier to deal with. Has a flat pan and frame rails underneath. I could set up on jack stands and did and remove everything.

I have mine up similar to do my forks and wheels except I have two ratchet tie downs like yours but wrapped around the frame and two normal pull type bike tie downs hooked together under the steering head ATM, all are going up to the steel frame of the shed :icon_think:

Will be interesting to see whether I can keep the front ones on and do the head stem bearings :icon_think:

Then I need to take both the wheels down and get new tyres fitted :icon_surprised:

Definitely will get myself a bike lift for doing other work though as crawling around on my knees is fucked :icon_nono:

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I just picked up a Harbor Freight motorcycle/ATV lift. It has 2 padded arms the you slide under the centerstand pivot point and the oil pan. When you jack it up with your foot, the bike sits fairly level and can be as much as 16" above the floor. Once up there are 4 hook points that you strap the bike to. Then you can pull both wheels at once. Cost was 59.00

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I just picked up a Harbor Freight motorcycle/ATV lift. It has 2 padded arms the you slide under the centerstand pivot point and the oil pan. When you jack it up with your foot, the bike sits fairly level and can be as much as 16" above the floor. Once up there are 4 hook points that you strap the bike to. Then you can pull both wheels at once. Cost was 59.00

Have you checked the stability on it yet? Tell me how hard you pushed when the bike fell over, I might wanna buy one if they're that cheap!

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Place bike on centerstand, loosen all fasteners, lift front of bike far enough to slide a cement block under the header, place a 5/8" piece of plywood on the block to take care of the gap between it and the pan and you're good to go. Works for me.....and I've got one of those jacks, but I prefer the cement block due to its compact size.

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I just picked up a Harbor Freight motorcycle/ATV lift. It has 2 padded arms the you slide under the centerstand pivot point and the oil pan. When you jack it up with your foot, the bike sits fairly level and can be as much as 16" above the floor. Once up there are 4 hook points that you strap the bike to. Then you can pull both wheels at once. Cost was 59.00

Have you checked the stability on it yet? Tell me how hard you pushed when the bike fell over, I might wanna buy one if they're that cheap!

I've checked the stability on the Wing and it is stable. May take a shim on both sides in the oil pan area of the bird.The centerstand area is level.

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