Hooplehead

youtube has video about the patterns for the drz400. Im seeing the low beam to be very wide, with a definite cut at the top, to stay out of rear view mirrors. The high beam is just a knock your eyes out down the middle type beam. Im guessing the lens and reflector pattern may be different for different bikes? I can see twice as far now, easily. I think its a combo of color and brightness that makes it seem to cut further. Made in USA helped me choose for sure. The 'cree' emitters are now the brightest led's on the marker. I think the indoor plant market is using them now too.

Core Moto Amazing customer service, even after I changed what i wanted, about 3 times. Made in america, and Ive absolutely NO DOUBT that the customer service will hold your hand if you have any problems. Just be ready to be perfectly precise about what you want in length, along with the exact degree of banjo fitting bend. No more squishy brake lever for me.

Cyclops led lighting The new 'cree' emitters are dang bright. I installed the h4 kit in my supermoto and DAMN is it bright. Its a little white/blue in compare to the older h4, and it cuts thru the night like a blade. Just gotta be sure to aim them properly, so you arent a total asshat to the others on the street. Made in USA and shipped damn fast.

Very good point. I could see how 'pooling' of the water, would be worse than just suspension of water. Drain and fill would seem to be more effective on the later. Neither fluids make a difference (it sounds), with dirt being a culprit. SO odd that a brand new sealed system, gets moisture and dirt in it. Must be the slow wear of seals on both accounts.

Thanks for the info. Its a local parts house, you know the type. They carry tractor parts, old stuff, you can still walk in smoking a cigarette. Such a random collection in there, mostly what the neighborhood (farms) use. He said it was silicone based and not compatible with 3 or 4 at all. I'll just keep using the standard dot 4 off the shelf (clear when new), and use the way it changes orange over time, as an indication to flush. Hell, its just a 10minute job solo, using a screwdriver and 8mm. Probably best to flush more often anyhow. As with engine oil, its usually the contamination that hits longs before the fluids break down. Comforting to know that the guy where i buy my parts, looks redneck as hell, but also knows his shit. He mentioned its NOT compatible with abs. I dont know if thats because its 'semi' compressible, or perhaps some seals dont like it.

I was at my local parts store and he had some dot5 fluid on the shelf. I was a dot 3 user in cars forever, then went to dot4 in the bikes and newer stuff. I asked, and he said that it was for military use. What he described, was that it isnt hydroscopic (sp?) and the military has to use it, as their vehicles can sit for years before needing to go into immediate service. He also said it doesnt work on abs. It got me thinking... would moving to dot5 in a simple nonabs bike (like my drz), mean I wouldnt have the dreaded orange fluid from just sitting? Not a big deal, as I hope to ride, and flushing dot4 thru a system each year is no big deal at all. But, I could see it being handy for long term storage. I'll have to look into it some more, maybe it has a low boil point or some other drawback. Anyone here try the dot 5 with success?

Thanks to all, the bike has a new owner. Hopefully there will be many happy miles for both.. I got it from a member of the XX family, and it has been SOLD to a member of the xx family.

I have a supermoto still yet. I just cant afford the loss to the pocket, should i drop the bird. The SM is so much fun and kinda beat, so I drop it all the time and love it. Too many cellphones on the interstates, so the 50mph moto is fine. 132lb 6'3" rider. I put down 140lbs because it includes my helmet and boots. She glues to the road now..... of course the original stuff is around, for the average 'large' rider. And yes, I can pick it up... dropped my first bird a few times to prove it . Im sure DMr would have little issue, selling another set of springs, should someone want to get it set up for more ground pressure. OR, one could just toss the stock stuff back in. Its very tempting to toss this sucker back on the road and wear it to the nub or die tryin'.

I'd hate to admit it, but this gorgeous bike has been sitting for too long. I dont ride it anymore as its in such great shape. I've been afraid to take it out of the climate controlled garage. I start it every now and then, and just last week, put a new battery in it. It has upgraded suspension from DMr moto, for a light 140lb rider. It also has full luggage racks and a peg lowering kit. Blue lights were installed in the cluster. I still have the factory parts to the suspension (springs, mono shock) and a Honda service manual for it. Theres no damages to the fairings, no hidden issues and is the last year they made these. I love the bike, but need to part with it, or just ride the damn thing. No lowball offers, as this is in excellent shape and has been taken care of. Another XX member in phoenix owned it before me, and I flew out and rode it back. It hasnt had a single issue during the trip, nor since then. The tires are in great shape, it purrs like a kitten, and is ready to take flight. I Have removed the knobby plastic stickers on the side of the tank. It left NO scratches, hazing or fade in the paint of the tank. I also installed some bar risers and adjustable clutch/brake levers. Also a cruise control that works with the flick of your thumb.... wonderfully simple and effective. It has the factory original rubber strap that holds the battery in! PROOF this bike has been taken care of! This has a clean TN title, so no BS, just pay me, we sign the SINGLE TITLE (no babysitting officials required) and you are the proud owner. The bike is currently located just north of asheville, NC. ALL the keys work in the locks and all the side and rear bags are in good shape. Im putting this up for $5000 and am pretty solid about it. Sale includes the cover, the original suspension parts, manual, keys, title and random other bits I may have for it. Im not exactly new around here, and a couple members have seen this bike in action. It is what it is, feel free to ask any questions you may have...

Bike has been put thru its paces since putting in the Honda oil. Im back to lazy shifting as my usual, but havent had a single missed gear or clash issue since the change. I hate it, but the evidence supports that at least MY '03 prefers gn4 over valvoline. I cant say much more than that, but the results i am sure of.

shit, trackday prices. Looks like a good learner bike, hehe.

Not a beginners bike? Surely ye' jest. Smokin hot looking for sure!

Common excuse. Plane tickets are cheaper than a night of drinking sometimes. The ride back with a bike or flight back without one is both doable... Do it, buy it!

$3000 new is what i paid, and another $225 for the cover for it. Both had to be ordered. Nonetheless, it has been SOLD. I got more than i posted here for it, btw.

I just go by the odometer and fuel gauge. Once you get a baseline established in your memory, you don't need the extra thought or gadgets. I know this... the first half tank goes a lot longer than the second When I'm riding the bike off interstate, i mentally calibrate the difference. I recall a recent trip that i was being VERY mindful of fuel consumption. Turns out, I made it to the station without a clue the miles i had trekked, just using the red blinking (oh shit ima b walkin') light.

Selling a mixer thats about 90 days old, $2000 FIRM. Purchased from Guitar Center and I waited too long to return. It works flawlessly and has always been covered with the $200 decksaver cover. The screen has its plastic still protecting it. I have all the packaging and the original receipt. I'm including the cover for the mixer with it. Nothing wrong with the mixer, I just found that I use its little brother (qu-16) mostly. Its never left the studio. I'll miss the larger screen, but I cant justify having both and using one. I will ship this, but buyer is going to pay what ups charges to box and insure. Its in original box, but insurance doesn't help if you don't overpay THEM to box it. I'll sell in person cash or paypal when shipped. Located near Marshall, NC 28753. Will meet anywhere within 40miles of marshall, NC. Pm with inquiries. Thanks -Hoople

Ethanol in 'gas' is a definite no-no for ALL my vehicles. I don't know the science behind it much, but i get better mileage in every vehicle i run it in. The cars as much as 10-15%. I liked to run the '97 low in the rpms, it just seemed to like the higher octane better for that bottom grunt when luggin up a mountain. I was always under the assumption that when running a hi-compression engine, its safer to run a higher octane (less explosive?) for fear of detonation. Add some carbon buildup or miles and it becomes more a worry. Who knows, i may be wasting my money on hi-grade, but the local station offers low and hi grade in non-ethanol... I choose the latter. Most dangerous for my engine is probably the loose nut behind the tank but in front of the seat.

This is totally a California Model bike. States so on the sticker near the end. I had the evap can and solenoid with the extra tubing on the ports, tying all together. It also has the o2 and pair systems. From memory only, i recall the 97 being a hell of a lot smoother on the throttle with a lot more oompf. I run stock pipes always. I am getting about twice the mileage on the '02. I see near 40's on the '03 and was getting 22mpg or less on the 97. Always run hi-test non-ethanol in mine. So many variations on bikes because of changing import and emission policies. Hard to know what you are really getting, i suspect. The Fi bike runs a TON hotter on the legs than the '97 did. I suspect it is from increased backpressure in the exhaust from the emissions crap, or maybe i was running WAAY rich on the '97. The differances between models is NOT as slight as one would think at first glance. Everyone else seems a lot faster now on the roads, so BOTH birds seem slower in the year 2016, than they were in 2006. Fwiw, BLACK is the fastest color by far.

Got the pads. I like the texture, but a far cry from cut to the right size. I ended up mounting low and upside down. Cutting would have worked, but i have doubts i would do a good job. The current edges are beveled, so i just left them. Low mounting as usual. For those that hang off the side of the bike really far, i would suggest mounting them higher. http://www.ebay.com/itm/161799054354?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Now $400, tired of storing it.

Selling my Fender showmaster, to make room for a new Gibson arrival. Its a 24 fret guitar in good shape, has a cpla small extras and is priced right. Just needing it gone, I am officially a Gibson player nowadays. Selling it with a NEW Skb case and a little orange amp. Pretty sweet deal if someone needs a spare or a good floating trem guitar that won't break the bank. Prefer local pickup. Im willing to accept $450 or nearabouts. Asheville, NC area http://asheville.craigslist.org/msg/5596791275.html

Took a while to reply it seems.. I looked for those pads and couldnt find them (tho i found the ebay store still). I wound up ordering another brand from china. I hope its cheap ass thin as well. 3M backer is what matters.Kinda hard to find sheets with recessed tips. I plan on cutting the sheets smaller, i prefer just a TINY bit to grab the knees. Oh, I'm on a newer FI bird, tis why im relooking my old farkle pages Still the fastest color made....BLACK! The flat black bird was done with Fuzion spray paint. It looks decent enough, but it isnt what i would consider a professional solution. Impossible to keep clean. I resprayed rather than washed. Better than the awful white marks you get when she falls over on rocky ground.

Still got em. They are heading to the landfill this week if noone wants em. This close to halloween, a bag of candy is even cheaper

plastic welder (looks like a footed soldering iron). Prepare the breaks like you would a normal weld and bevel the edges to give more surface area. Weld some plastic into it. Sand until the spot is just below level. Get some FLEXIBLE hobby ca glue for model airplanes and some accelerant. fill liberally with the FLEXIBLE glue and then shoot with the accelerant. Sand like hell (glue is very hard to sand), then wipe off and do it again. Eventually you will build a layer of flex glue and it will be without air holes or imperfections. The more you work it the better it will be. My first motorcycle saw the plastic welder guy a few times. Eventually he showed me how he did the repairs and told me to learn to ride...

Glad you got it fixed. Prolly provoked by a cupped front tire?