dissolvedego Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 i've never adjusted a chain in my life, but i understand the procedure. anyways, i found my chain to have excess slack, so i checked the shop manual and it seemed simple enough. loosen the axle nut and turn the adjusting bolts until the chain is in slack. easy. then i discovered that for the life of me there was no way i could budge the axle nut. i also noticed that the right adjusting bolt is quite loose, whereas the left one is almost as difficult to turn as the axle nut. is it possible that the last person to adjust the chain on this bike fucked up? should the axle nut be give-yourself-a-hernia-trying-to-unscrew-it tight? should the adjusting bolts (or one of them in this case) be loose while the axle nut is tight as a motherfucker? i know these are noob questions but they're too specific to my bike to be covered in a previous thread. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 I can bet 100$ that ,prior to you,last guy who massed with rear axle was dealer`s mechanic. It happened all the time back in the era when I used to help change the tires on my friends bikes. Axle nuts were almost impossible to undo-standard answer,-"well,dealer installed my last set of tires" It seems to me that some of them use airguns calibrated for tracktor trailer wheels. Anyway,you need bigger , 1/2 inch driver,those wrenches from tool kit might be too small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Pipe. Counterclockwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dissolvedego Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 Pipe. Counterclockwise. do you mean put a pipe over the wrench to get more leverage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Pipe. Counterclockwise. do you mean put a pipe over the wrench to get more leverage? Yes, and if it's like mine was after the one and only time I let the stealer near it someone to help hold the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GriffXX Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Breaker bar. I had mine so tight once (I must have been thinking of N1K's torque values that day) that I thought I was going to have to cut the axel nut off. Off to lowes, purchase a Breaker Bar, and boom, no problem. Now I use it all the time. It makes the job very easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryG Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Breaker bar. I had mine so tight once (I must have been thinking of N1K's torque values that day) that I thought I was going to have to cut the axel nut off. Off to lowes, purchase a Breaker Bar, and boom, no problem. Now I use it all the time. It makes the job very easy. ++1 I couldn't get mine loose either when I got my XX. Got a breaker bar and and a pack of heavy duty sockets. The axle nut will loosen noooooooooo problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyv65 Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Firstly, it takes some big-ass sockets (6 point, preferably) to get a hold of those nuts (heh, heh, I said "nuts"). Secondly, the rear axle torque value is 93 Nm, IIRC-which isn't exactly "finger tight"... it takes a bit of oomph to break loose. Thirdly, I have yet to see the Blackbird that has a decent set of chain adjusters on them: it seems they all wobble and float some, and you for sure can't trust the stamped marks on the swingarm. So you check the slack, put the bike on the centerstand, adjust the left side first, then adjust the right side so that when you spin the rear tire, the teeth on the rear sprocket are centered on the chain. Now you snug up the axle, and spin the wheel again to make sure the axle didn't drift while you tightened it. Bump the bike off the centerstand and check the slack. Look good? go ahead and torque the axle nut, check the slack again, then put the bike back on the centerstand and make sure the chain is still centered. I know it sounds like you're doing alot to adjust a loose chain, but once you get used to it, it's only about a 5 minute project. Bryan...don't forget-"too loose" is better than "too tight"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broknarrow Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 If you have your centerstand on- a guide I use is having the chain as loose as I can get it without it being able to slap into the bottom of the centerstand when it's up. Also- you should always adjust your chain when it's "cold" and do your cleaning and lubing when it's hot. (insert sexual humor here) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AXXKicker Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 is the "and for sure you can't trust the stamped marks on the chain adjusters" routine new or what? i've always gone by the adjuster markings. it never even occurred to me that they'd be off. why would they be off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyv65 Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 is the "and for sure you can't trust the stamped marks on the chain adjusters" routine new or what? i've always gone by the adjuster markings. it never even occurred to me that they'd be off. why would they be off? 'Cuz the chain adjuster is only as good as the kid who assembled it at the shop where your bike was put together-and that is one of the lowest paying positions in the service shop (learn where everything goes-then we'll tell you what it does). When I've got the axle properly snugged down, there is about 1/8th inch travel in the left adjuster and over 1/4 on the right; I suspect becausethere is too much play between the snap ring and the sliding marker. I guess that the adjuster marker is often accurate enough, but I trust my eyes alot more than a sliding marker I can wiggle back and forth on the swing-arm. YMMV. Bryan...or we could sell our Blackbirds and buy VFR800's: they have concentric self-adjusters, IIRC... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I found the best way is to tighten in small increments. If you go to tight you need to loosen both sides then resume tightening...as long as there is some tension it wont move the opposite way...then once your there tighten the axle nut...never had any issues with that procedure using the markings on the adjuster myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyv65 Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I found the best way is to tighten in small increments. If you go to tight you need to loosen both sides then resume tightening... Yup, I do it a quarter turn at a time, myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Just an FYI before you go spending all sorts of money for a 27mm socket. SAE socket 1-1/16 works just fine and you can usually find one for low bux at an auto parts store. I picked up a nice SK Wayne ratchet and a 1-1/16" impact socket at a pawn shop for $9.00. It now has a permenant place under my seat as I keep the OEM tool kit in a separate package in my saddle bag. Lube chain every 500 or so, adjust every 1000 or so and you'll only need to go one flat or so on the adjusters at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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