dissolvedego

Excellent condition- Brand new rear tire and cam chain tensioner, Corbin 'gunfighter and lady' seat, chain and sprockets relatively new (about 2-3k miles of use), registration paid through through May 2008, 32k miles. This bike is very clean. There are no known mechanical problems whatsoever and I have taken very good care of it, garage-kept and covered, serviced regularly, etc. The ONLY time this bike has ever been on it's side was in a parking lot at 0mph. It had just rained and when I attempted to put her on the center stand my boot slipped and she toppled over, so there are some light scratches on the fairing on the right side (see picture below), and that is the extent of the damage. and pics: asking $4500 O.B.O.

31k miles. i'm assuming it's not the original chain... it was on the bike when i bought it at 28k miles.

Do it yourself for 210$ http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/103238/afamdid-530zvm2-xring-steel-oem-replacement-chain-sprocket-kit-honda.html thanks for the link... is it worth $35 extra to get anodized alloy as opposed to steel in the rear sprocket?

it's at the replace line too..... maybe i should. how much can i expect to pay to have the chain and sprockets replaced? $300?

the marks on the swingarm are slightly uneven when i compare the right and left sides. so should i just make sure they're even when i adjust the chain? i heard somewhere that it doesn't really matter if they're even or not, that it depends on how it was alligned or something. :icon_think:

i can turn it with my fingers, if i recall correctly, about half a turn in either direction.

ok most of this makes sense... but there's still a couple things i don't understand. one of the adjuster nuts on my bike is loose (you can move it with your fingers), the other is tight. this is with the axle nut tightened (i haven't messed with it, yet). aren't the adjuster nuts supposed to be equal to eachother? how can i turn them equally if one of them has been floating around? do the adjuster nuts effect anything with the axle nut tightened? i would guess not. should i just tighten the loose one before i loosen the axle nut, and turn them both equally from there? and i know i probably shouldn't even ask, but what should i use to clean the chain? *ducks*

gah. so it seems honda fucked up and most blackbirds will eventually be full of vibes. i keep hearing the same thing, which matches my experience... vibes from 2 through 4k rpm, smooth as silk at 5, and then back to the vibes at 7. i'd be pissed if i didn't get such a good deal on my 'bird. hrmmm... so, what are the vibes like on a busa/zx-12/zx-14? do they have similar issues, or are they even smooth to begin with?

for what it's worth, i just changed my oil w/ mobil 1 15w50, and that seems to have cut the vibrations down significantly.

how does that work exactly????????? i bought one too, and there isn't enough room behind the headers to even fit the socket wrench and oil filter screw. this is driving me crazy, all i want to do is change the damn oil... :icon_wall: EDIT: ok nevermind... a normal wrench seems to work just fine.

my bird is just past 30k, and it vibrates more than it should, especially in the 4-5k rpm range. it won't make my hands numb, and it doesn't vibrate nearly as much as my FJ1200, but for a blackbird it is a lot. kind of upsetting at first, but it's still smoother than most liter bikes so i'm ok with it.

ok semi-related question: is it necessary to remove the lower cowling to change the filter? i'm lazy.

since no one responded to me about this in my thread- how can you tell if you've got air in the clutch line? what are the consequences? i saw lots of tiny bubbles when i bled the clutch, not sure if they were already in there or if it was leaking through the seal of the bleeder hose. either way... should i be concerned? the clutch operates smoothly and everything feels fine.

do you mean put a pipe over the wrench to get more leverage?

i've never adjusted a chain in my life, but i understand the procedure. anyways, i found my chain to have excess slack, so i checked the shop manual and it seemed simple enough. loosen the axle nut and turn the adjusting bolts until the chain is in slack. easy. then i discovered that for the life of me there was no way i could budge the axle nut. i also noticed that the right adjusting bolt is quite loose, whereas the left one is almost as difficult to turn as the axle nut. is it possible that the last person to adjust the chain on this bike fucked up? should the axle nut be give-yourself-a-hernia-trying-to-unscrew-it tight? should the adjusting bolts (or one of them in this case) be loose while the axle nut is tight as a motherfucker? i know these are noob questions but they're too specific to my bike to be covered in a previous thread. thanks.