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WHAT OIL NOW?


Pete in PA

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FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!

I was at Wallyworld and had my question answered. :angry:

The Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck and SUV oil is now a 5W-30 and energy conserving! :angry::angry:

I saw the 5qt. jug on the shelf said YES!, snatched it up, then luckily read it closely.

EVERY TIME! I find an oil or whatever I like, POOF! it's gone.

I did go to Pep Boys and found a few quarts of the old stuff and bought them so I should be good with oil through this year.

So Now I'm back to square 1. What oil now?

I want a quality 5 or 10W-40 synthetic oil that's cheap and available anywhere.

I ran 1 change of the Rotella synthetic and the shifting sucked so that's out.

HELP!

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FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!

I was at Wallyworld and had my question answered. :angry:

The Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck and SUV oil is now a 5W-30 and energy conserving! :angry::angry:

I saw the 5qt. jug on the shelf said YES!, snatched it up, then luckily read it closely.

EVERY TIME! I find an oil or whatever I like, POOF! it's gone.

I did go to Pep Boys and found a few quarts of the old stuff and bought them so I should be good with oil through this year.

So Now I'm back to square 1. What oil now?

I want a quality 5 or 10W-40 synthetic oil that's cheap and available anywhere.

I ran 1 change of the Rotella synthetic and the shifting sucked so that's out.

HELP!

AMSOil. I use it in my 600+ HP Lightning, XX and the Sabre. Remember the cam wear issues with the Sabre/Interceptor/Magna's 1100CC engines? I have no oiler kit, and 12K since the regrind. No appreciable wear, because AMS seems to flow and stick really well. :)

I want a quality 5 or 10W-40 synthetic oil that's cheap and available anywhere.

Valvoline Full Synthetic is the only common quality shoe-in that I can think of, been using it in my Subarus for a long time. It's always done well on the Blackstone http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html tests I've had run. More and more bike stores (in the Houston area at least) are stocking AMS on the shelf. If you order online, just get a sufficent quantity (after you try it first, of course) to keep on hand.

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I ran 1 change of the Rotella synthetic and the shifting sucked so that's out.

HELP!

Hi Pete,

I was planning on going to the Rotella Synthetic, but not now. It worked well for me in my other bikes. The PO of my bike used the Yamaha oil and to me the bike does not shift as well as I would like - a little "clunky". I guess based on this I should stay away from the Rotella. I might go for the Royal Purple or Golden Spectro. I have heard a lot of good things about both.

Mike

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I am in the same boat so to speak. I want something thats readily available...yea sure some oils mentioned (royal purple amsoil) may be good but they are not readily available. I did find one that I am about to try, its called Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic...according to the label it doesnt have the "energy conserving" additives...all the other oils mentioned have the "engine conserving" label on the back except the rotella and i dont like it as much as i liked red cap mobile 1

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I am in the same boat so to speak. I want something thats readily available...yea sure some oils mentioned (royal purple amsoil) may be good but they are not readily available. I did find one that I am about to try, its called Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic...according to the label it doesnt have the "energy conserving" additives...all the other oils mentioned have the "engine conserving" label on the back except the rotella and i dont like it as much as i liked red cap mobile 1

Exactly. For now it looks like the Mobil 1 15-50 will be around yet but I now think it's too thick and saps HP.

It does work great and I've used it a long time but I just got to likeing the 5-40 and now this.

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Pete,

I run Castrol Syntec semi synth 20w50 in mine and I am pleased with it.

I wouldn't worry overmuch, unless you drag race or road race all the time, about the heavier oil sapping power as you stated. I doubt you could find a way to measure the difference between any multigrade oil in the xw40 or xw50 range. The oil is in shear in the gearbox and that might, repeat, might cost a HP or so. For the rest of it, unless you have overfilled things to the point where windage is a problem, no problem.

Ed

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another thing that noone seems to have hit on, is the fact that if you use synthetic oils, you have no need to change it every 3000 miles. i have ran amsoil in my cars and bikes for the last 3-4 years. this last oil change on my car, a 2004 dodge stratus R/T, was 23,000 miles on the same oil. it came out looking like oil that had been in a car for 2,000 miles. every single bike i've put amsoil in, the transmission instantly shifted smoother, took longer to get warmed up, which in my eyes means theres less friction and more cooling inside the engine, and even got better gas mileage.

i even left a dirty towel sittin next to the case of amsoil i'd bought, walked out to the garage the next day, and the towel was clean, folded, and a hershey's kiss on top of it! did the oil do that??????

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i even left a dirty towel sittin next to the case of amsoil i'd bought, walked out to the garage the next day, and the towel was clean, folded, and a hershey's kiss on top of it! did the oil do that??????

Okay, I've seen some funny shit on this here board....but THAT was funny!!! Well done :icon_clap: :icon_lol::icon_lol:

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