Master Of Pain

Thanks everybody, I picked up a full Akrapovic system, PCIII USB, K&N filter. With any luck, I hope to have 145 at the wheel in cool weather

Man, that makes me sick. :icon_silenced: I guess the second runner up is the Akrapovic... Please tell me those aren't out of production :icon_pray:

Greetings, all! It's been a long time since I've posted, however I'm in the process of getting ready for the fall riding season. One of the things I've been meaning to get around to was purchasing a full TiForce system for the 'Bird. Problem is, it seems that time has finally caught up with the bike, and the vendors out there aren't stocking the kit anymore. Orient Express is listed on TiForce's page as a primary vendor however they don't even bother listing the kit anymore. Does anybody know a vendor who would still be selling the kit? Thanks!

Oh, what I ment by two holes is just that, two holes drilled into the bottom of the slide(s) besides the needle hole. Both appear to be the same size, I would say about 1 mm. I'll try to get off my procrastinating Sunday ass and pull my shit off to take a pic, I need to try a new spacer that I made anyway that is like a 1/4 needle position spacer. Such a pain in the ass, but becoming more routine The 4* advancer changes the torque curve from 3K-7K. There is more net torque avalible, even despite my jetting issues in the midrange I can feel the difference. If you want to believe Dynojet's dyno, it indicated a 5# torque avg. improvement in that range by itself. As long as you use quality 87 octane fuel and your jetting is somewhat decent, no detonation issues noted, even with the 10% ethanol gas. I would like to try the adjustable discs for 5-6* with 89 octane to see if there is an improvement - but I'm little worried about the fact that this is a static advance rather than a calculated timing recurve.

I'm trying to debug a few carb issues on my '97. Prior owner installed a factory jet kit. There were 145's mains set on the outside and 148's set on the inside, Factory Pro kit needle in position #3, and the pilots are still 42's, but the screws were set god knows where. After a dyno determined that I was running lean from 6K onward, I started to experiment with different mains and shimmed needle positions. I've determined that with my current bike configuration: Full Yoshi RS3, K&N filter and 4* advancer, my MJ's seem to be about spot-on with #148's on all 4. The fuel screws were set to 2 3/4 turns out, but it seems that the needle position is overly sensitive. There is a very fine line between too rich and too lean here, and I've experimented with a bit of shimming around position 3 with brass washers. 5-6K at around pos. 3 is lean but shim it higher and the "wet bog" comes on with a twist of the throttle. I'm beginning to wonder if the rising rate on the slide is becoming a factor, because smooth roll ons seem to work out a lot better than WOT starting from 4K in about every gear. All the lag starts around 5-5.5K and begins to clear around 7K. Now that you know where I'm at, I have a couple of questions. 1. Are there 2 holes in a stock slide? Mine has two as of now, and I can't find any pictures in my manual to compare against. 2. Were I to need to drill the slide, what hole size would be ideal? 3. Any tips on curing my lean spot between 5K -6.5K? Question #1 is very near and dear to me, because it seems that no one can answer that for some strange reason. Thanks :icon_wall:

Can someone reccomend a stateside shop for a complete head job? What I mean by complete is: Porting, polishing, valve job, cam grind. I have a 97' and I would like to get this done. What RWHP/TQ gains are expected?

Yep. Way to go there bubba, you might as well paint it pink.

Which rear sprocket did you go with from WBR? AFAM steel rear. If you can't find it on his site (it's pretty messy out there) give him a call and he'll get it ordered for you. I'm not a bling guy, but I really dig the look of a gold chain on black. Don't take that the wrong way!

Thanks for everyone's suggestions in this thread. The 530 ERV is extremely light - compared to the stock chain, I dare say about 40% less weight. My friend's 520 heavy-duty chain @110 links felt very close to this 530@110 links. The AFAM steel rear sprocket was also surprisingly light compared to the stocker. The front was lighter, however I believe that was due to the lack of the cush drive attachment. At this juncture, my opinion is that the weight difference between a 520 conversion and this particular selection of driveline components is negligible. Besides, the tensile strength ratings are higher. Yay, less unsprung weight and moving mass! :icon_clap:

Man, the range I've seen is from $89-$99 Fuck that shit! Where can I get a simple tool for this task?

I purchased the bike used in Apr 05. It already had the K&N, full Yoshi and a Factory sticker on the airbox. It is quite possible that the installer scammed the previous owner to an extent. When I opened the carbs a few weeks ago to clean them, I saw the hex bolts on the bowls and Ti multi-position needles, so I assumed the Factory Ti Jet kit was installed. I also saw 2 holes on the slides, but I have no clue as to whether they are drilled out or not. Perhaps someone could comment on the slides? So, what's the optimal AFR curve for a carbed bike? I researched this topic and all I found was the FI suggestion - start at 13.2 and end up at 12.8.

I had a dyno performed recently on my 97 at Honda of Houston. I trust their calibrations - they are the most reputable dealer and service department in this city, and anything I've brought to them in the past is pretty well dead-on for the most part. The full size is here: HTTP://COLLINSNETWORKS.DYNDNS.ORG/COLLINSN...yno_4_15_06.jpg Look at that AFR! How shitty is that? I have a K&N / Factory Jet / Full Yoshi combo on the bike that I didn't install. Any suggestions on main jet sizes/pilot/needle placement would be helpful. This bike is way down on power! Four pulls, everything basically the same. How's that for consistency?

Because FI is GAY and GAY is HOT

For Watter Wetter to be most effective in heat exchanging, you need to have the lowest ratio of Glycol coolant mixed with your distilled(!) water. This is based depending on where you live and what your climate norms are, for instance in Houston, we may see 10-12 days in a year where temps go below freezing, and 1-2 days where freezing temps stay below 32F for more than 6 hours. A marginal 8-10% glycol ratio is perfect for this environment. Idealy, you could run 100% distilled with glycol, however I worry about the lowered boilover temps in hotter climates, hence the 8-10% suggestion, which I have found to be a sucessful constant in all my vehicles, including my high-horsepower heat monger of a Lightning. I had a 2001 R1, which would get up to 245 idling at a light in 95+ degree tempratures. After water wetter +H20+ 10% glycol, it would never exceed 218F even in 100 degree temps, and would cool to thermostat tip-over temps (179F) quickly once moving. Water Wetter works, you just need the correct ratio of coolant to get the most out of it. Glycol coolant is a poor heat exchanger compared to H20 - it's purpose is to raise boiling point and lower freezing point, and to neutralize pH and metal leaching.

The reason I asked is that since I changed over, it's not pulling as hard past 8K (feels surgy) and there is a little dip that can be felt at part throttle when running at speed in 4-5 gear.