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Jetting


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I have a 98' carbed bird, I was debating on weather or not to change the exhaust and re-jet.

Are there any recomendations for jetting? Which kit is the best? Are there any recomendations for what stage or size jets?

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I have a 98' carbed bird, I was debating on weather or not to change the exhaust and re-jet.

Are there any recomendations for jetting? Which kit is the best? Are there any recomendations for what stage or size jets?

I jett'd the '98 to get rid of the flat spot - I hated it. Crack it open, and it'd take off, pause for a moment and almost throw me forward, and then take off like a bat out of hell again. After jetting it with the factory pipes its as smooth as can be from 0 to redline. Its a nice, constant pull with no flat spots. Thats the reason I jett'd mine...

Same thing for the Magna, and VFR.

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I also have a 98 and went with Scorpion Carbon slipons, K&N filter, and K&N jet kit (Dyno Jet). I put the larger set of mains in, they call them 140's. Then you dril the slides with the supplied drill bit and I put the clip in the 3rd position on the new needles. Runs much better, but there is more room for improvement. I have some dyno time coming this spring. I think the exhaust made the biggest change of course.

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I began a jetting debate..

I am a 97, piped jetted and filtered...

I went back and forth to my shop tweeking... air ratio mixtures and needle hieghts..

After 3 trips back and forth I finally lost the low end "lag then pop'n'go " prior mentioned..

Mine is now set for low end torque and a 16t up front..

Love the ride, but if you don't have the time or money to get it down right, stick with what you got..

You need yo know what your are doing OR have a shop install..

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I was going to have a shop install the kit. My bird has a bad hesitation in the midrange that gets annoying when you are in 5th on the freeway and have to slow down and then try to accelerate back up to 5 over.

I have a stock set up with a K&N filter which came with the bike. I was thinking of putting the OEM filter back in it and see if that helps eliminate some of the lag.

I really want to go with the Hindle high mounts, but cash may be a factor.

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I went with a Two Bros full system on a 98, oval Ti one can and an dyno jet stage two kit with a K&N filter with great sucess. I got Two Bros and Dyno Jet on a conference call and told them what I wanted and they worked it out for me together.

Drilled the slides changed the jets (careful those bad boys are soft brass) and set the needles (I think at three) one thing that no one mentioned is that on inline 4's the middle two carbs should be jetted differently or at least I've found several shops or people in the know tell me this. 37,000 miles later I've never had a problem and have not yet change it.

One thing it did was drop about 50 lbs off the bike by removing the center stand (had to) and the twin OEM pipes and headers. That was worth a few HP right there. I never dynoed it.

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on inline 4's the middle two carbs should be jetted differently or at least I've found several shops or people in the know tell me this.

I'm not a carb guy, alway hated the things, but it's my understanding that the center pistons were jetted richer on older air cooled bikes to keep the heat down. Not a big issues with water cooled bikes.

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on inline 4's the middle two carbs should be jetted differently or at least I've found several shops or people in the know tell me this.

I'm not a carb guy, alway hated the things, but it's my understanding that the center pistons were jetted richer on older air cooled bikes to keep the heat down. Not a big issues with water cooled bikes.

It's not *as much* of an issue... With the XX (and most modern, water cooled bikes) they are "siamese bore" meaning that there is no water between the cylinders, just on the front, back, and outside the outside cylinders... So, cylinders 1 and 4 have more cooling than 2 and 3... This is only an issue if you are running on the lean side, like the bike was from the factory... Anything in the "normal to rich" range should be no problem.

Mike

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I went the jet kit route, mpg dropped to 32 and I still had a flat spot so I sold the kit.

For the $100+ they want for a jet kit you can do better and cheaper by using small washers under the needle to raise it, turning out the pilot screw 3 turns and if needed buying larger main jets. They're cheap.

You'll be tuning regardless of which way you go.

For the record I've got the stock air filter, stock pipes with baffles punched through, carb. slide hole drilled out to 1/8th in., each needle raised with a .025 washer and pilot screw out 3 turns.

No flat spots from idle to redline with great power, 135 on dyno. I also still get 38-40 mpg.

From the factory the jets are different for the inside 2 cylinders. Why I don't know. I agree that was for an air cooled engine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My bird is a 97 model.

Dynojet kit, K&N and Yoshi 4-1 race system made my bike a lot better than it was and lost some weight,

but the mid range hesitation problem was still there. It couldn't be fixed by carb tuning. :icon_think:

Then I decided to replace the stock ignition box with Dynatek Dyna2000.

Now the bike is just perfect! No more flatspots. Dyna2000 solved my problem for good.

Ignition advance just wasn't optimal with stock ignition box under 6000rpm...

I think Dyna2000 should be a mandatory upgrade for all carbed birds! :icon_dance:

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Do a search of jets by author and put Maxx in there...He used a factory kit on his and actually had his right from what he explained to me...He did a really good explanation that helped me with my 97...a 98 wont be that much different...also I found that for the most part the factory kit is the way to go rather than the dynojet

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