sykotek-xx Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 NOTE 3/10/2006 : Read this: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31259 Most of the install is still valid, but obviously something is awry. Be warned, it's not fun when this happens. Wrote this up since there is no other source for it that I could find. Let me know what you think. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve.humins...ndex_cruise.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Nice. Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 nice work. I've considered putting one on my bike a few times... but I don't trust the controls to be water proof.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZITPRO Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Very nice writeup. Question 1, does it turn off when you hit either the front or rear brake like in a car? Question 2, if you had these instructions how many hours install time would you estimate? It must be less than eight hours, I'm sure a lot of that time was figuring out how to get it to fit and work, you have done that for us. Thanks for you efforts and excellent doccumentation.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted January 15, 2006 Author Share Posted January 15, 2006 The switch looks pretty weather tight. I ran some silicone around the seam in the switch just in case. Yes, the cruise shuts off when it senses a brake light, so either brake will shut it down. It also shuts down if it senses a sudden RPM change, so pulling in the clutch will also turn it off. It's safer than a throttle lock in my opinion for that reason. The install is still a little tough because you have to take off the tail, upper cowlings, lower cowlings, tank, and air box. Also have to route cables, make splices, bend brackets, etc... Then put it all back together. At a decent pace I would still dedicate a day's work to it in case there are any problems. If everything worked perfect and you turn wrenches really fast, maybe 4 hours. Maybe not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texhoss Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Steve, the Audiovox Cruise Control Instruction is super. pictures also! I have seen instructions on many of the other bikes out there, but they still had me scratching my head about the CBR1100XX install. You have put a lot of efforts into interpreting all the other instruction for the other bikes, making the modification for our Birds, installing the Cruise Control and given us written and photographed version. Now I thought just finding the Cruise Control was going to be the hard part, till I got to looking at the install! What a cool farkle this will be! Incredible work! Thanks, Super Steve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Texhoss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvking Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Should that be posted in the "Important/Useful Threads" section for future reference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 It will be...but just the link, not the applause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Nice write up Steve. This will save some head scratching when I put mine on. Thanks again to Joe for hooking us up with these units. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 :thumbsup: :allhail: Major Kudos on the great writeup and pics (Proof is I understood it 1st time through which says oh so much, o never mind :roll: )... One question regarding the drilling a hole in the 'harden' tab for cruise chain cable: Could one use a dremel to cut the notch, slip in the the chain and solder gap to prevent slipping out? Mucho thanks for sharing the effort of ingenuity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amherst XX Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 How would that be different on a carbed bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Very nice write up! Now if I could just find one of those for $29.99... Been all over the web and the cheapest price I see is $93. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted January 15, 2006 Author Share Posted January 15, 2006 Bhan, I almost resorted to the dremel to drill the hole, then the bit finally, well, bit, and once I got thru the surface it went right through. The idea with the slit sounds like a good one to me. Only difference on a carbed bike, I think, would be the attachment of the linkage (maybe the same) and the vacuum source (maybe the same). I've never seen the inside of a carbed XX so I'm guessing. Thanks everyone for the compliments wasn't especting as much. Appreciated. I know how much I think to myself "I'm glad that guy wrote that" when I come across something obscure that I need, just returning the favor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Dude, you just saved me so much time and brainpower. My set is sitting on my naked bird in the cold garage right now getting ready for an install. I can only add one piece of advice for anyone considering this: If you plan on installing a pro oiler, you might as well tap into the speedo sensor, since the pro oiler requires a signal from it. The pro oiler is my current project, and I am about to yank the wiring for the sensor. Now I know to put a splitter at the splice. I was planning on putting the servo under the tank right over the tranny, but you make it seem like wiring will be easier if it is placed under seat. Thank You!! :allhail: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 My Pro-oiler relies on a magnet, so I'll use the coil for a signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechnoGecko Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Wrote this up since there is no other source for it that I could find. Let me know what you think.http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve.humins...ndex_cruise.htm Very nice! I'll make sure to add it to our upcomming how-to section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 I just added this note to the bottom of the page: NOTE Added 01/17/2006: I was sitting around when for some reason this popped into my head... you really don't need to actually get the back wheel spinning at all to get the cruise to attempt to engage (for testing purposes) with this type of setup. Remember, it's not actually seeing a MPH reading, only the tach. So I went out to the garage and tried it, and sure enough, just holding some RPM (about 3000-3500) while (safely) in neutral, then hitting "set", will also get the cruise to engage. You will notice the RPM's try to stay where they are after you release the throttle if things are working right. It may be just a momentary thing, for the reason I am about to mention, but it does show you that there is life. Again, it will be operating poorly, not holding the RPM perfectly, since you now have a very freely spinning engine, and the cruise will disengage by design if it senses sudden RPM spikes or drops. However, you can tell whether or not the cruise it at least making the attempt at pulling open the throttle, and if it does, it's likely that it will work correctly once on the road and in gear. If you get nothing at all, just drops back to idle, then it's time to go over everything again, especially the ignition (blue wire) tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Yeah, Jim, I failed to say that it is an option to attach to speedo sensor. But that whole magnet/reed switch thing seems like it is too fragile and prone to misadjustment. I figure a straight shot to sensor will be more robust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 Hey, just put a bit under 100 miles on the new cruise unit, without the vacuum accumulator. Absolutely no problems whatsoever. 100% functional. I set it at an indicated 80mph (73 on the GPS) and it didn't move a bit. On some moderate inclines, it would drop down to 79 on the dash for a second then get right back to 80. I'm even able to hit the accelerate button up hills and it pulls really strong. No shortage of vacuum here. My bike must really suck. Final update, installed, working and road tested. I'm a happy mother fucker. Plus, took a ride with my dad today, him on his 2002 HD ultra glide with cams, hi perf ECM, full pipe, etc. I have to admit it's a quick tank. Anyway, We're in the right lane at a red light and realize that about 1/4 mile up we have to be three lanes over to make a left. We both know it. Light turns green, we get on it, I can hear him spanking it, I give it the juice in 1st and the wheel comes up and I just lit him up on 1 wheel. Best part was he liked it. Good day today, nice january ride. Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccriderXX Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Will the front wheel stay up if you engage the cruise control mid wheelie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted January 21, 2006 Author Share Posted January 21, 2006 Well, probably.... Gotta hit the balance point though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 Steve: When you ran the beaded cable over the throttle bar (I am not sure what else to call it) do the beads "bump" over the bar? I cannot seem to get a straight unhindered shot with the line. I guess the servo has enough power to overcome the slight resistance here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted January 29, 2006 Author Share Posted January 29, 2006 Yeah, it did a little. It was either going to rub on that bar you're talking about underneath it, or rub on some rubber hoses on top if it. I figured it was safer to rub on the metal than to wear through the hoses. I also had some thin wall silicone tubing (think of an aquarium air pump) and I tied that around the beads to make the pull smoother. I didn't like that too much, so I ended up tweaking the bracket so there was minimal rubbing on the bar. It now just barely touches when at idle, and once it pulls a little the chain moves up with the rotation of the throttle and doesn't rub. Just mess with it until you get it as good as you can. No problems so far, used it again for about 100 miles today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paslag Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 I just installed one on my '00. Personally I installed the servo on top of the transmission and I hooked the cable to the upper throttle cable using one of the loops provided in the cruise kit and it does not rub on anything this way. Can't wait for spring to try it... Too much snow for now! Thank you Sycotek for the link! Very helpfull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 I was thinking about installing mine on top of the tranny too. Was it a pain to get it in there? Do you have any pics of the installation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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