some basic questions, please answer

[gharknes]

99 xx 20k Fi

1. How often should the chain need adjusting, I did mine 2 weeks ago and after about 300 miles it needs done again, it is kept well oiled.

2. How do you know the chain needs replaced, and if it does what should also be changed.

3. My bike has a serious clonk when selecting gears, especially 1st which grinds into gear and 3rd, sometimes all of them, sometimes it is very very smooth with no problem. Does the clutch need bleeding or is there something else I should look at. I know honda's have clonky gearbox but this is worse than a clonk.

[Animal Mother]

Cannot help too much on 1 and 2 (will let the pros better address them ), but my 2001 definetly "clunks" (does not grind though) when shifting from neutral to first. Always has. That is the only gear though; does not do that in any other gear.

Seems strange to have clutch issues at that mileage :?

[Helvet]

1. If you need to adjust again, you must have made a mistake, or the chain is worn out. Please check the slack a few times, eveytime turning the rear wheel a bit. If there is a great difference in slack, you must have a bad spot in the chain.

2. If you have a bad spot, replace the chain. If you don't have a bad spot, but the tesioner marker is in th red zone, it will also be time for a new one. Some riders do 10.000 miles with a chain, others do 40.000 miles...

[arcticflipper]

1. Not that often but also depending on your ride style and the road conditions.

2. Well normally when you get to a point where you need to keep on adjusting the chain, you kinda should know that it is now time to erplace the chain.

Look at the chain, if there are any damaged links, look also at the wear pattern on the chain. If you can see any discoulering on the chain, brass type colour showing. Also look at the sprocket - rear - teeth worn or disformed.

I've found that if you need to tension the chain often, you need to put the bike on the centre stand, tension the chain to the correct tension, and then slowly turn the rear wheel. If you find that there is any spot where the chain is either too tight, or too loose - you need to replace the chain.

This means that either the sprocket is no good anymore, or the chain is damaged at a certain point - stretched

Normally when you change a chain you need to replace the sprockets too, I've found that the rear sprocket normally has to be replace, It all depends on the riding style - a lot of guys on here suggest that you replace the front sprocket, and keep the rear.

The sprocket and chain wears in together, and forms according to each other. This is the reason for replacing a sprocket or both with the chain.

Else you might not be able to get the chain seated correctly onto the sprockets.

3. Change the oil to a better type - full synthetic or Putoline semi-synthetic. Gear noises is normally a sign that there might be serious problems on the way, or that a service is due- the oil isn't doing it's job anymore.

The above mentioned info is not carved in stone, and there might be other factors involved for this. I can not hear the noise the bike makes from where I am. Thus use these only as suggestions please.

[blackhawkxx]

1. How often should the chain need adjusting, I did mine 2 weeks ago and after about 300 miles it needs done again

Seems to me that there was quite a thread about after tighting the jam nuts on the chain adjusters, that if you didn't screw in or out (can't seem to remember which) the adjusters themselves, that the chain adjustment would change. Clear as mud, I know. Maybe Pete in Pa could shed of light on this.

[Pete in PA]

Yep, I thought the axle nut tourqe was enough to hold the axle, NOPE. You HAVE to lightly tighten the adjusters to hold the axle.

At that mileage it's possible your chain is shot though. Check for light, bright red rust particles on the chain and frame next to the chain. That's from inside, where the o-rings have failed.

[Justin]

If thats the stock chain, I'd imagine it could be shot. They start feeling really shitty when they are stretched or kinked in spots. I replaced my stock at about 23k, and it was clunky and nasty, felt like I was on and off the gas ...pull...slack...pull...slack ... and so on. Second chain was an aftermarket, and it lasted about 18k (POS), was even worse at the end of its life. A bad chain can make your whole riding experience feel like poop.

[bonox]

3. Try holding the clutch for a little while before going for first, and also just load the lever a little for a second before going in - let the rubber bits work to slow the input shaft - when you get used to it, you can still get into gear fairly quickly, but no clunk at all.

as for going up to 3rd, when you learn to dry shift any bike, you'll get no clunks at all (well, you won't if you do it right!)

[blkbrdrydr]

99 xx 20k Fi

1. How often should the chain need adjusting, I did mine 2 weeks ago and after about 300 miles it needs done again, it is kept well oiled.

I agree that your chain may be worn out. I keep mine well oiled (Scottoiler) and hardly ever need to adjust it. Maybe every couple thousand miles or so. Chain currently has over 33,000 miles and less than 1/2 way through the green wear indicator.

[Justin]

99 xx 20k Fi

1. How often should the chain need adjusting' date=' I did mine 2 weeks ago and after about 300 miles it needs done again, it is kept well oiled.

I agree that your chain may be worn out. I keep mine well oiled (Scottoiler) and hardly ever need to adjust it. Maybe every couple thousand miles or so. Chain currently has over 33,000 miles and less than 1/2 way through the green wear indicator.[/quote']

33k, thats impressive for a chain IMO ... is that mostly long distance highway riding?

[tomek]

Chain wears out much faster toward the end of its life,but 300 miles it is a bit to fast.

Here is very unscientific way to get rough idea about condition of your chain.Try to pull chain away from the rear sprocket,at the midpoint of chain/sprocket contact line,if you are able to see half or more tooth your chain is shoot.

[Justin]

Chain wears out much faster toward the end of its life,but 300 miles it is a bit to fast.

Here is very unscientific way to get rough idea about condition of your chain.Try to pull chain away from the rear sprocket,at the midpoint of chain/sprocket contact line,if you are able to see half or more tooth your chain is shoot.

is this done at a certain point on the sprocket, or any link contacting the sprocket?

[speedygeezer]

Chain life is primarily dependent on rider habits. Same as tire life. If you are hard on the gas much of the time and do a lot of engine braking, your chain will die sooner rather than later. Most chains are done at 25K miles, <> depending on rider. As others have posted, if you have to adjust it after every 200-400 mile ride, it's done. Oiling/cleaning seems to have little impact on chain life, regardless of what Scottoiler (and others) say. This applies to O-ring chains only. Sprocket life also depends on riding habits. If your gas mileage sucks, your tires, chain and sprockets also wear out quicker. Simple physics.

[blkbrdrydr]

Most chains are done at 25K miles, <> depending on rider. As others have posted, if you have to adjust it after every 200-400 mile ride, it's done. Oiling/cleaning seems to have little impact on chain life, regardless of what Scottoiler (and others) say. This applies to O-ring chains only. Sprocket life also depends on riding habits.

I'd like to match the 80,000 mile chain and sprocket life that this guy got on his XX

http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...+milage+mileage

[speedygeezer]

Yeah, me too. Ol' Stan took it easy on everything. That shows what can be done if the effort is made. I doubt that is why most XX riders bought this bike tho........