rodantking Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 I'm sure this is a repeat so I'm sorry. I found a lot about it being a improvment, but nothing on part #'s or directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 It's way back in the archives. I was reading it the other day. Get a stack of 3/8" washers enough to measure 6mm thick and shim away. Haven't done mine yet. When I get the Hyperpro springs I'll try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 It's way back in the archives. I was reading it the other day. Get a stack of 3/8" washers enough to measure 6mm thick and shim away. Haven't done mine yet. When I get the Hyperpro springs I'll try it. What Brett said. I did mine when I swapped shocks you basically put 4-6mm worth of washers on the top of the shock mounting bolt, others notched the washers as to not have to remove the shock entirely. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helvet Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Don't go over 6mm, otherwise you might be surprised with a real tankslapper...... If you buy the Hyperpro set (springs front and rear) the shim is included (4mm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Don't go over 6mm, otherwise you might be surprised with a real tankslapper...... I doubt you'll run into stability problems with just the shims, but the back end gets high in a hurry with very little shimming, not to mention you run out of threads on the top of the shock mount. Most guys shim the rear 6mm, and if they still need quicker steering, drop the front a few mm, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitey Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 What Brett said. I did mine when I swapped shocks you basically put 4-6mm worth of washers on the top of the shock mounting bolt, others notched the washers as to not have to remove the shock entirely. :wink: Hi I did mine this past summer using the notched out washers method, only to discover that after time they had fallen out. This coming spring I would like to drop the shock & install washers on the top of the shock mounting bolt. Is it alot of work to drop the shock low enough to install the washers? Thanks. Pat. FFT, I recommend using Stainless Steel washers so they don't rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 I did mine this past summer using the notched out washers method, only to discover that after time they had fallen out. This coming spring I would like to drop the shock & install washers on the top of the shock mounting bolt. Is it alot of work to drop the shock low enough to install the washers? Step 1) Loosen shock mounting nut, or completely remove. Step 2) Put bike up on center stand. Step 3) Remove upper shock mounting bolt. Step 4) Push top of shock out of the way and slide upper mount down & out. Step 5) Install washers. Step 6) Re-install mount & shock. 20 minute job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitey Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Step 1) Loosen shock mounting nut, or completely remove.Step 2) Put bike up on center stand. Step 3) Remove upper shock mounting bolt. Step 4) Push top of shock out of the way and slide upper mount down & out. Step 5) Install washers. Step 6) Re-install mount & shock. 20 minute job. Thanks alot for you help Northman I appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amherst XX Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 Benefits/downfalls of such a procedure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Benefits/downfalls of such a procedure? Benefits are improved handling Downfall is the seat sets about an inch higher. If you shim it, you'll have to readjust the headlight as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodantking Posted December 5, 2005 Author Share Posted December 5, 2005 Cant make up my mind on respring the rear because I don't know how long the stockers last. She only has 900 miles on it. Should I save up for a new shock or replace the spring? Is the stocker rebuildable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZDave Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 Technically no, in reality, Yes. There is a guy down here who drills the end of the shock and fits a regassing valve at an angle that allows the threaded collar to still be fitted. He says everything internall is available for replacement, seals etc. He alters the shim stack and spring weight to suit the rider. It's noticably better than standard but not a patch on an Ohlins or Wilbers. It's still just an emulsion shock. Shit load cheaper though There must be someone up there that can do a similar job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticflipper Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 A ot of guys in South Africa also does this, might be a liitle cheaper than sending the shock off to the States to get this done?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted December 5, 2005 Share Posted December 5, 2005 The gas in the stock shock is separated from the oil by a flat nylon piston with a o-ring on it The piston is held captive in the top part of the shock by a ring that is pressed /crimped into the shock body. I could find no way to remove this dividing piston with out using the bandsaw. At the top left of this pic in the plastic box , by the top of the spring you can see the piston i'm taking about . I cut the stock body in half to get it out) http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=d...dscn00959nm.jpg If you are going to go to the trouble to revalve and re spring a xx shock do it in a f4 shock body, then you pick up the compression adjuster, preload and remote res. I'm not sure what an emulsion shock is but the design of this shock is similar to other shocks other than it uses a piston to separates the gas and oil instead of a bladder. ( i think some after market shocks use a piston in the remote res as well). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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