BarryG Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Owner's manual looks fairly straightforward but then they advise against doing it and say special tools are needed. I've adjusted my chain before and doesn't look like there's only a few more bolts t remove. I'd rather remove it and swap for new tire and save money. Is this a pretty easy thing to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helvet Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Yes it is easy...... Just placing it back is a little tricky with all the spacers (please note the difference in left and right!) and the brake, but you will figure it out. The first time it can be usefull to have a mate help you because it is quite a heavy wheel..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 The only special tools are a torque wrench and a third arm. Other than that like Helvet said pay attention to your spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 The rear wheel shouldn't be too difficult provided we all kept out centerstands , but what about the front wheel? What is the easiest way to finagle that one? Floor jack + a thin peice of plywood on the oil pan sump ? Does the front fender have to come off ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 The best tip I picked up here was use a shovel to lift/line up the wheel on reinstall. On the front I put 2 blocks of wood under the fork tubes and I do remove the front fender. Put a strip of duct tape on the rim when removing the calipers so they don't scrape the paint. (they will) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 The rear is easy, remove the axle bolt, slide the wheel forward to allow chain removal, then pull the wheel straight back. I had to move the tag up a little to get the wheel past it. Tye wrap the brake caliper up to prevent strain on the hoses. Also if you have little helpers around, you might wedge something between the brake shoes to prevent damage, should someone grab a brake. The rear caliper is held in place by the axle bolt and a notch on it's casting that slides into a groove on the swingarm. Make sure you are in this notch before you slide the tire in. For the front, I remove the front fender bolts, (4). Then I loosen the axle bolt. Next loosen the four pinch bolts on the bottom of the forks. I do all work on the center stand, and usually have my wife on the pillion seat. This lifts the front enough to remove the tire, then I place a footstep under the forks for support until I am ready to reassemble. I have heard of people catching the front axle on the pinch bolts during reassembly. The word was that the axle did not seat fully and caused poor alignment of the front end. Keep the bolts loose, insert the axle and proper shims, then torque the axle. Torque the pinch bolts and reinstall the fender. Check the alignments and go ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dotetcher Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 When removing my front wheel I back my bike up to my chain link fence. I run a tie down through a strong part in the fence and through the rear grab rail. While pushing down on teh back (while on the centerstand) I cinch up the tie down. I've used the bumper of my truck before also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motor Psycho Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Some of you must have a pretty large tool boxes. Using shovels and chain link fences to work on your wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 easy but tricky and the 2nd and 3rd time are much easier than the 1st! and someone to help is not mandatory but a huge difference. especially on the remount as you try to line the dang thing up for the axle insertion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryG Posted October 7, 2005 Author Share Posted October 7, 2005 Pretty reputable dealer here is charging $77 to mount/balance F/R if I bring the bike in w/tires I bought elsewhere. Got my Pilot power F and Pilot road R from swmoto yesterday......should have new rubber tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Front wheel. This a piece of cake if you have your center stand. Just use a small jack on the oil sump. If you are REALLY anal, you can put something soft between the jack and the sump. Raise it up until the front wheel just barely clears the ground. Remove the fender. (It's only 4 screws. You can keep the fender on, but then you need to jack the front end WAY up in the air, and you will need to lift the wheel up in the air, and hold it in place to replace it. Rear wheel. My rear wheel clears the ground by less than 1/2" when on the center stand. I use a scrap 1X4 to roll the tire back on in order to to lift it up high enough to put everything back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Barry, It's cheaper to take them to Cycle Gear and have them do them, I could help you pull them on Sat. I'm just up the street from you. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryG Posted October 7, 2005 Author Share Posted October 7, 2005 Barry,It's cheaper to take them to Cycle Gear and have them do them, I could help you pull them on Sat. I'm just up the street from you. :wink: Dropped it off at Alba in Poway this morning. They're putting on both for $77.....also getting a coolant flush and replacing with Engine Ice. Where are you at, Will? We oughta go riding sometime. I'm out meandering someplace every weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Barry, When you put the front wheel back on. Install the brakes. Honda recomends you use new bolts whenever you remove the brakes. I think this has been hashed out in other threads. I use locktite blue on the old bolts. Tighten up the axle bolt. Don't tighten up the pinch bolts on the front of the forks yet. Check the clearance between the brake disk and the fork with that shim that is supplied with your toolkit. Then take the bike off the jack pump the brakes till they work, then hold the brake lever while you bounce the front of the bike a few times. I'm told that this makes sure there is no bind in the fork tubes. Then torque the pinch bolts. BTW: $77 for both wheels is not too bad. My local shop gives me the "employee" discount, and it still costs me $25. per wheel. Before they got the new tire changer, they would let me do my own for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 $77, is that ON the bike?? My guy does mine for $15 each, or a 12 pack of Miller Lite, off the bike. I can drop the rear tire in about 5 minutes, and re-install it in 10. Once you get the hang of it, it's really not a huge deal. Front's a little longer, because you have to pull the front fender, and I usually remove the right side brake caliper. As mentioned before, I've always re-used the bolts, but hit them with loctite and torqued them to spec, I think it's 23 ftlbs. I forgot to do that once... with nearly disasterous results: http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...opic.php?t=9743 and the followup: http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=10235 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Barry,It's cheaper to take them to Cycle Gear and have them do them, I could help you pull them on Sat. I'm just up the street from you. :wink: Dropped it off at Alba in Poway this morning. They're putting on both for $77.....also getting a coolant flush and replacing with Engine Ice. Where are you at, Will? We oughta go riding sometime. I'm out meandering someplace every weekend. Barry 1'm 1n V1sta 8) Cycle Gear wants 30$ each for t1re mount1ng :evil: For that pr1ce m1ght as well go with Alba and not get your hands d1rty. 1 have taken both my wheels 1nto Cycle Gear and had them mount t1res only because 1 bought them there and 1t was eas1er and a l1ttle cheaper than a stealer. Yes we should go out for a run, let me know what days would work good for you. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryG Posted October 8, 2005 Author Share Posted October 8, 2005 $77, is that ON the bike??My guy does mine for $15 each, or a 12 pack of Miller Lite, off the bike. Yes..$77 dropping the bike off and having new tires mounted/balanced when I pick it up. Seems to be the going rate out here in CA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FloridaSilverBird Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 The rear wheel shouldn't be too difficult provided we all kept out centerstands , but what about the front wheel? What is the easiest way to finagle that one? Floor jack + a thin peice of plywood on the oil pan sump ? Does the front fender have to come off ? I took my centerstand off, its easy to just put it back on if i want to change out tires, don't need the springs for that (which are a complete bitch to put back on IMO). Saves the weight of the stand, which has got to be close to 10 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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