FloridaSilverBird

I understand how the petcock works now and after some testing it looks like it works just as its supposed to. Although when there is no vacuum and it is closed with fuel on i can blow into the gas entry and it takes quite a bit of pressure to get it open, but i can clearly feel that the rubber seal is good. So, rubber seal is good and petcock works. At least now it does. Edit: I got her to run just fine now . We will see if something happens again :icon_wall:

Hm. Well I just went and opened the petcock cover and the diaphragm looks very nice and clean, and nothing wrong with the spring. Perhaps instead of eating away at the diaphragm, it got stuck in some position? On the other hand, when i bent the vacuum hose leading to the diaphragm from the engine down, it leaked out gas, so it looks like you are on the right track when you say fuel is leaking into the vacuum line system. Or perhaps this is due to gas overflowing the carbeuretors all the way up the drains. I'm not sure. Anyways, I did a little dusting, reseated the diaphragm, and put it back together to see if this is still happening--although maybe it will only happen again after i turn her on and back off.

Not really. I purchased the fuel screen with o-ring from ronayers and didn't receive a spring, and I don't see an item listed which would include the spring. It looks like there might be shown a spring or something inside the fuel screen no the fiche, but it is unclear.

That actually sounds like it might be exactly my problem. I had to replace the fuel screen but I do not remember anything about a spring either when i took the old one out or when I put the new one in. I did not receive a spring with the fuel screen (ordered from ron ayers). I have thought that the problem was with my tank because it continues to leak gas into the carbs, clearly explaining why it is filling up. It's also leaking all over the place when i take it off the bike. So, is there supposed to be a screen inside the fuel screen for a 98 bird? Maybe it fell out while taking out the old fuel screen and it is somewhere in the tank...

Gas has been leaking out of the air vent lines leading into the carburetors so I opened the airbox and to my horror this was because gas was filled up the brim, even into the airbox on the left side (was on the side stand). Any ideas on why is this happening? It seems to be a problem with the tank/petcock because gas is slowly going through the gas tube even when the tank is off the bike. My petcock is all the way on and I have recently replaced the fuel screen and cleaned the carbs. Lastly, in my troubleshooting I turned the throttle and all the gas in the carbs drained. Did all that gas just pour into the cylinders? Will this be a problem when I start it up again? Thank you.

Thanks Hank.

I am installing a stator on my 98. The stator does not have a plug so I am clamping on female spade ends, but how do I know which ones go where? Is it correct to assume that since the wires are all yellow and that stators seem to be often sold without plugs that they all hold the same current and can be plugged in any way? Thanks!

I've been trying to get the carburetor assy off the engine for a long while now. The bottom clamps are completely off but I am afraid that using any more force to get it off the engine will completely break the assembly. I've been using a crowbar for leverage on each side, putting pressure on the aluminum casings. It will rock front to back but it is not budging at all. The reason I am trying to get it off is for cleaning which I am almost certain is needed. I am thinking the only way I will be able to do this is to destroy the insulators somehow so that I can get them off and just buy new insulators. Any advise?

I'm trying to clean the carbs, and so I want to take the whole assembly off the engine. Here is a writeup for a different bike: http://cbrforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=96888 There are two clamps for each cylinder, one facing forward and one facing backward. The ones facing backward which are underneath the floats are easy to get to. The ones facing forward and are underneath the vacuum chambers have almost no clearance. I have loosened all the ones facing back and the one facing the front on the far left cylinder. The other three clamps I do not know how to get to. I can wiggle the assembly but I don't think I can pry it off without loosening the other three cylinders.

I'm refering to the four black covers which house the vacuum chambers.

Till loose enough to turn by hand? I couldn't get my 2 year old niece's hand to fit between the carbs and the engine. Only the bottom clamps are accessible from under the float bowls, and so they are easy with someone with small hands like me to get to. The ones I am having trouble with are beneath the black covers. I can only access the one on the left side of the engine. Oh dear, I was hoping you would have forgotten by now :icon_silenced: Good to see you anyhow, Red.

The bird has been sitting for about a year and a half. I tried starting it up and it was having trouble but after about 30 seconds I noticed that it was spilling a huge amount of gas right out of the overflow pipes leading to the carbs. I suspected a stuck float or the jets were completely gummed up so I started to disassemble them, but I have no idea how to reach the boot screws facing forward as there is only about 2 cm of clearance and I would have to unscrew it at about a 45 degree angle at best. It looks like I would have to take the engine out of the frame to reach them? Also, when draining the bowls one of them looked to have normal gas, two had neon green gas, and the other looked like it may have been contaminate with some oil.. Any advise or directions to pertinent threads would be appreciated.

+1 The pin on my left lower cowl ALWAYS used to pop out, drove me crazy until I just bolted it on.

Yeah I don't think the US model has such a plug underneath the headlight. A few weeks ago I switched lenses with a headlight I bought online for cheap. If you put the whole headlight assembly in the oven (set it on top of a cloth cooking pad of some sort that doesn't conduct heat well) at 170 degrees F for about 20 minutes and when you take it out the sealant glue is soft enough to where you can almost pull it right apart. Do what you need to do and put the lens and backing in the oven again until it heats up and you can pop them right back together without requiring extra sealant.

Thanks, i'll keep you in mind if I run into trouble. It is my hope to be able to produce more than my own set of bodyparts. A Blackbird probably isn't the best to do it with because few people have one, but thats the bike I have so we'll see how it goes

Well I admit I didn't know jack crap about motorcycles, or even cars for that matter when I first got into bikes. Owning an XX and just plain old being FSB has allowed me to get pretty intimate with my bike so i've learned quite a lot and have enjoyed every minute of it. I'll also be sure to get complete instructions on mold construction before I walk into my garage and find that I melted my fairings I've also always been a bit of an artist and now that I have a Fever, and the only perscription is Carbon Fiber, I think it would be great to get into working with composites. I'll keep you all posted on how my projects turn out with that

I used to have a 02 XX. A bit smoother than my current 98 XX but not too much faster. So I guess the invisible Turbo ceased to function on mine? Maybe Honda forgot to slap mine on? I wouldn't be surprized since these ones are special -- made for special people... and invisible...

I've only found one place to get them and they put you on a 8-9+ month waiting list. Alternatively, you can pay me to make them for you I've ordered materials and will be making my first set (starting with the upper, lowers, and maybe the front fender) within a month or so.

Lend me your nipples of knowledge... Went for a ride tonight and noticed that there is a lot of weird behavior especially around mid-range rpm's. Its odd because I can't notice it at all when in first gear throughout the rpm range (seems normal) but when I get into higher gears, especially 3+ you can just feel the bike kind of wobbling forward and backward slightly from power transfer to the rear wheel kind of "thumping" instead of being nice and smooth, if you know what I mean. Also if I am in 2nd gear and especially in higher gears there is horrible hesitation if I try to roll-on from around 4-5.5 krpm. If I keep on the throttle it becomes unnoticable after I get into the 7k+ range. My first thought is that a plug or plugs are misfiring, but does anyone think the problem could be more involved, such as with the carbs/jets? :icon_think:

I would go with the power. You get the better stick and feel of the power and although it will wear faster the front tire wears fairly slow anyways... I have 4k on my front power and its got pleeenty to go. Just my opinion

cleggben@gmail.com Theres a few clusters for the FI birds going on ebay right now I think. If you fried the RR, battery, and cluster, you might want to check the rest of your charging system as well (ie, stator). That might be fried too. :icon_think:

I managed to get a 2nd hand headlamp for US$300 from a breaker... the fairing bracket they offered me looked like a pretzel (US$90) - I applied judicious force with the assistance of a rubber mallet to my bent one and got it pretty much straight. Will only be able to tell when I get the fairing upper on it tho. Tx for the offer, tho... muchas appreciated. Did you know theres actually a few black uppers on ebay right now? They will probably settle for around $250 give or take. Someone also posted one at a buy it now for $150 but I got that one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-Upper-F...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBR-1100-XX...1QQcmdZViewItem

Technically I didn't 'just' get the headlight lens clear portion. Someone listed a headlight assembly on ebay that was torn up in the back with 3 tabs broken off but the actual lens was still in great condition. Since my lens wasn't in quite as good condition I was able to grab it for just $30 Thanks for the tip on adding a little heat, it sounds like it should work, and I have access to some nifty temp controlled ovens in my university labs. I don't think they'd mind if I threw it in there for an hour or two. brianmacza, I've seen a lot of your posts around where you've referred to ridiculously high prices for new parts. Are you able to receive this sort of thing in the mail? I would guess shipping to be high but not so high as to make shipping items in useless. Or will people just not ship you anything because Africa isn't thought to be the most reliable place for consumers? If you need any assistance getting parts let me know if you see anything and I'd be happy to mail it to you personally if you'll pay the costs. I'm sure we could get a headlight for well under $900 -Chris

Im trying to disassemble my headlight to replace it with a new lens but the puddy/glue they use to stick it together seems to be getting in the way. I've tried to kind of pry it open with a screwdriver but have stopped as im afraid of cracking the case or something. just looking for some advice...

you guys service your bikes?? :icon_shifty: