Motor Psycho

Bad ground

I fabricated a small plate that is held by the ignition cover screws and rides right in front of the upper triple clamp. On that plate I also have my voltmeter and another switch that turns on the fan.

I've also used MCWheel and it came back straighter than before the accident.

It's a Honda ! All it needs is regular maintainance.

Custom exhaust http://www.zorstec.net/flash.htm

Check to see if the fuel tank isn't venting by opening the cap and see if that helps.

I had the same problem on my 03. Key would turn fine but cap wouldn't open easily. It was that way from day one. I placed a rag over the fill hole and with a small fine file took a few thousanths off the ends of the two locking bars. Also the locking bars were rough on the ends.

Did I understand correctly that you put that chain back on the bike with new sprockets? If so you will soon be unhappy again

I don't run aluminum sprockets, even on my dirtbike. If your concerned of weight try a stealth rear sprocket. Aluminum on the inside with hard steel teeth. You say you don't like the price of Honda oem, but what have you realy saved by replacing everything after 10,000 miles ?

http://www.mcmaster.com/ Some of the larger hardware stores have Heli coil kits, but McMaster Carr is your best bet for larger metric sizes. You can buy a kit that will have everything you need with instructions. Another option I've seen done before is to simply tap out the hole to the next largest pipe thread. Pipe thread is tapered, and taps and plugs would be available at most hardware stores.

What brand-model did you get?

480 watts will make a lot of heat

I have the Baxley Sport Chock. It works very well and no need to remove the fender. Remember you get what you pay for. When your bike's laying on its side the extra money will be too little too late.

You had 12 volts in both wires with the fan disconnected or connected? Connected you would. Dicconnected, power in one (black/blue) the other (either black or green) is ground only when temperature switch activates. At 230 degrees and the black or green wire is not ground the switch may have failed. But also check all grounds for corosion.

I don't think many Montesa's from that era made it to the states. What size is it?

I could beleive 200 HP at the crank. But at the rear wheel?

Maybe more speed could be obtained with a new engine, like this one : May require a little fabrication for proper fit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JFS-100-Jet...586984756QQrdZ1

I went to 16 on the front and left the rear stock and realy like it. Putting 2 more on the back must make it hard to keep the front wheel down.

This sport is about FUN! NOT FUEL ECONOMY If you want to be sensible, stay home and mow the lawn.

Some of you must have a pretty large tool boxes. Using shovels and chain link fences to work on your wheels

If you replace the o-rings you should use one size oversize. Sometimes the fine dirt that gets trapped in there will actually wear away some of the metal on the inside of the links and standard size o-rings won't seal tight enough, allowing for accelerated wear. Always measure with a small set of verniers to choose the correct rings.

If you're concerned about how your chain looks buy a new one and only put it on for special occasions. My dirty old chain with lots of lube on it works better than any CLEAN chain.

Use a GPS. All you need is about 1/2 mile of reasonably straight road then correct with a speedo healer. I think within 1% is possible. www.speedohealer.com

The YOSHIMURA slip ons arn't too loud and weigh about half of stock if you can still find them.

Check the "Reverse Power, Back Up, Lock Out Relay" I've heard of a lot of people having issues with these