birdie_xx Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 :evil: Maybe I'm in the same boat as in this tread... http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=23771 I went out for a ride. All was good, the bike run great. Then I stopped for couple of hours. On my way back, at some point, I notticed that my t.signal indicators are dim and maybe blink slower... Together with the push of the t.signal switch, I notticed that the dials of the speedo and the tach, drop to zero and come back to show the speed and RPM's... A bit worried I turned of the high beam, thinking that may help. I nottice next, that my low beam (HID) went out !!! Now I'm at the huge traffic jam, past the toll booths. I flip the h-beam to have the front light. Next trying all different switches and such, I notticed that when pressing the start button, the HID starts to flicker, and stays if I rev the bike over 3K... Then it stops, the h-beam dims, the dials drop to 0 and the bike dies.... Good thing I was next to the shoulder... I end up on it. I thouht of pick-up truck owners, I call couple of you (no luck).... After few minutes just sitting there, I try the key again and the lights in the dash are brighter. I can hear the igniter kicking in as well. I unplugged the low beam, and push start the bike. It fires up and off I go, trying to stay in the RPM's....Couple of miles later, the bike dies again. I remove the fuses from all the accessories I have. Push it again and it starts again and I make the last few blocks to my garage. Now I'm pissed off, that I have to worry about it and figure out what's wrong. The battery is only couple of months old, but the bike is close to 80K. If it's just the R/R, then it will be simple. If it's the stator, then there is more to it. But if they are okay, than I have a short somewhere and it may take a while to find...... :evil: But I don't feel like dealling with it today.... :roll: Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Had the same thing happen to me Peter, only no HID or FI. Joe helped me troubleshoot it to a R/R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Shit, Peter- I see I missed your call on my cell. It was in the other room charging. You should have called my home number, ya silly bastard. Glad you got it home, anyway. Electrical troubleshooting is not one of my strong points, so I'll leave that to someone wiser. Hope you get it sorted soon. BTW- Stator is easy, if that ends up being it, let me know and we'll get you fixed up in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stretch Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Peter, Low voltage will cause all kinds of electrical gremlins, my tach and speedo went crazy on the way home from MEGA, turns out it was the stator. It's an easy fix, real easy, just order the cover gasket, you'll need it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Thanks guys ! 8) Like I said, I didn't feel like searching the problem tonight. Is there a better chance it's the stator or the R/R ? I'll charge the battery and see what happens. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Its a better chance its the regulator. Charge that battery overnight, and then you can grab a meter and do the tests tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 I rather grab someone with the meter.... :twisted: Unless I can use this. Can I ?! http://www.aerostich.com/product.php?produ...&cat=270&page=1 I bought this a while ago and still haven't made the bracket/mount for it ... :evil: If I had it plugged in, maybe I'd see the troubles coming..... Jeff, ready to design me a bracket ?! :twisted: :wink: Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 Don't hate it, it really works great, (with a R1 reg.) If you get in the habit of watching your lights at a stop it won't sneek up on you. just rev off of idle back and forth and the lights get brighter when it's working properly. No meter needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Is it the '01 R1 R/R that fits ? Can you use the newer R/R, from the '01-'03 XX ? Has anyone done that ? As I recall, few wires need to be switched on the R1 R/R, correct ? Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azxx Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 I replace my batteries every 14 monthes in my bikes and cars and knock on wood, I havn't had any electrical issues since 1984 and that was due to the horrendous vibration on my GS1150ES, a stator wire from the winding to the harness vibrated apart, (resoildered it) but when batts start to get weak it puts a load on charging systems and eventually leads to a failure, maybe now maybe later. (a roll of the dice) When I worked at Chevrolet over the years I probably rebulit or replaced 500 alternators most low mileage ones due to crap Delco sidepost Batteries (leaking acid at the terminals) or bad positve cables and bad grounds. Just my 2.1 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 16, 2005 Author Share Posted August 16, 2005 Tha battery is maybe three months old..... Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted August 16, 2005 Share Posted August 16, 2005 all you will need to do is pull the connectors out of the stock plastic plug and plug them into the r1 unit, tape up the individual wires and mount the RR with one screw/bolt...i do believe its 01+ (I used an 01 or 02 cant recal which now). I have a good site bookmarked and I always post it here for most anyone that has the RR problem : http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 17, 2005 Author Share Posted August 17, 2005 Thanks James ! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 18, 2005 Author Share Posted August 18, 2005 James, I looked at the link you posted and that seems to be the '97/'98 XX. The newer ones have a round plug, so the R1 R/R would require modiffications... O'k, I finally used my meter ( http://www.bigbikeparts.com/eshopprod_cat_..._Volt_Meter.htm ) to see what's wrong (as if I know what I'm doing ! :roll: ). The battery was charged up and it showed 13.5 V before turning the key. Once runing, the meter showed 12.5V and dropped when brake applied. No changes when I reved the engine, nor change in the brightness of the headlight (which shined bright BTW - those HID's are very sensitive to voltage !) So it seems the bike is not charging.... Any simple method (without any disassambly) to determine wheather it's the stator or the R/R ? I imagine the R/R would go first, right ? Or should I just go safe and replace both ???? The bike has almost 80K..... Has anyone put the newer ('01-'03) R/R in the older bike ? I can get a good price on one, close to the Yamaha - not quite, but close.... Thanks ! Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 18, 2005 Author Share Posted August 18, 2005 P.S. O yeah, I hope I can fix it by the NEXXT ! :shock: Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dotetcher Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Peter According to the shop manual if you test for continuity between any one of the three yellow wires and ground and there is continuity the stator is bad. I did this test when I was going through my problems this spring and my stator was bad. I replaced it and the rectifier (rectifier was bad also) and everything has been great since. I ordered a stator for a newer model XX than mine (a '97) by mistake but used it anyway. They have a higher output (think its about 60 watts more) than the OEM stator for the '97. I bought an Electrex regulator from Partsmonster and the combination has been doing just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Sorry peter, I forget there were birds made after 1998...something about new fangled injection somethng or other...anyway, I hope ya can figure it out!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonox Posted August 20, 2005 Share Posted August 20, 2005 Once runing, the meter showed 12.5V and dropped when brake applied. No changes when I reved the engine, nor change in the brightness of the headlight (which shined bright BTW - those HID's are very sensitive to voltage !) really? Most switch mode power supplies are famously INsensitive to changes in supply voltage. Mine don't do anything different down to 10.5 Volts - and i've only ever seen that once when I emergency braked for some wildlife with all the electrics going. Getting back up to speed again and no change in headlight characteristics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 Ok, few days later, I know few more things, but I still have not fixed the problem.... I went with my R/R to Tim (redbird) yesterday. Didn't ride the bike because I didn't feel like pushing it ! :twisted: Anywho, my R/R works fine on his bike ! The voltage rose with RPM's although it reached 14.9V at 5K RPM's not 15.5..... I used Tim's meter and checked all the points the manual suggests. My continuity on the stator is 0.2 mA across all 3 terminals. There is no continuity between either of the alternator wires and the ground. The voltage on the battery is 12.7V and not rising with RPM's, dropping to 12.02 V when engine running (headlight disconnected)..... There is the same 0.2 mA continuity between green and ground, on the R/R plug. I have the same voltage at the R/R plug as at the battery. The only out of specs test that I can find is the leak test. When tested at the battery, I have 0.56 mA and the max should be 0.2mA.... I unpluged all my accessories and removed their fuses just to be sure and there was no change. The manual suggests unplugging the circuits one by one. I assume that can be done at the fuse box ? I did that, and the only difference is when I remove the "clock" fuse.... The meter shows "0.0" as oppose to the 0.56....... I'm very confused. My accessories and mods are attached to different circuits, not the clock one.... I think Stretch replaced the stator, even though it "tested" okay. Has anyone else ? I don't want to spend $150 unless I have to..... Any ideas ? Cheers, P.S. BTW, the '99 R/R plugs right up to the '01 XX. I imaggine it's the same the other way around.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 The voltage on the battery is 12.7V and not rising with RPM's, dropping to 12.02 V when engine running (headlight disconnected)..... Wrong. If your regulator allows 14.9 volts back on Tim's bike, and you're showing 12.7 on yours......then that's all the stator is putting out....just enough to run the bike, not enough to charge the battery or run any accessories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 That means that the satator is bad , then ? Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted September 4, 2005 Author Share Posted September 4, 2005 This thread almost looks like I'm talking to myself..... :twisted: :wink: I wonder if this could by my problem...... Large images in my gallery.... Do you think I should SELL IT ?! Do you think IT'S CUPPED ? Any recomendation what gasket seal I should use ? Can I just get it in the auto parts store ? I asked Tim and he said yes, but he is a roofer - what does he know about engines.... :twisted: :wink: The parts guy at the HONDA dealer told my GF I didn't need any sealant ! :evil: ...so she didn't buy it..... ........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 I do believe you've found it Peter! My manual says to use sealant on the wire grommet and on the gasket at the mating surface of the crankcase. Do you have that picture from the manual? I'd use Permatex sealer if I were doing the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted September 4, 2005 Author Share Posted September 4, 2005 Jim, yes I know which picture you're talking about. And Tim explained to me where to put the sealant. In Polish way, I saw it the other way around....put the sealant everywhere but in the middle.... :roll: Duh.... Who sells the Permatex you recommend ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cossi Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 Who sells the Permatex you recommend ? Auto Zone, Pep boys, O'reilly's about any auto parts store. It is a silicone sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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