azxx

They could go back to drum brakes with a cable, I've never had a brake or clutch master leak, 35 bikes, 20 were Hondas, may have had the wrong fluid put in or cleaning solvent or just a bum seal.

I run a Pilot Sport front, Pilot Road rear, no problem but I did have a front 208 that was smooth till I went over a 100 mph then it vibrated, the balance was ok, just a bad tire or it needed to be speed balanced.

That's about the same as my 98 XX, jetted on a dyno, K&N and stock muffs drilled out.

Tire pressure, rear wheel alignment, uneven tread wear worn center.

I will try that, I'm kinda busy now grinding new teeth into the rear sprocket, seems simple but I'm allso going down 3 teeth and the spacing is a bitch, if your not carefull you end up with teeth real far apart at the end.

I use Gunk but I replace the o-rings after cleaning it.

:thumbsup: +1

Kickstand safty switch?

The carbs have drains in the bottom of the bowls (a small brass screew), open them and drain into a glass and see if there's water or crap.

43mpg at 85mph, k&n, stock exhaust drilled out to the max, jetted on a dyno and hasn't been touched in 11000 miles except oil changes. 34k on it and it's a 98.

I loved my CBR750F6 it was ahead of it's time. :wave:

It maybe running leaner, while mine is carbed and a different beast, my XR650R jetted lean makes lots of heat now jetted on the rich side I can't feel any heat unless I sit still for over 5 min, no fan on these. Ignition timing can make a big difference allso. My 2 cents.

Gotta get your pipe temp up. :crazy:

Maybe contact points in the clutch switch.

I run Monsanto it's pricey $900 a quart, but that's what the original Blackbird used.

I had the filter test info, if I find it I will post it, Fram was the worst tested pieces of the bonding glue that bond the paper to the ends were falling off like slag, some had issues with the blow off spring design, I'm using the OEM about $7 from Honda Direct Line.

I replace my batteries every 14 monthes in my bikes and cars and knock on wood, I havn't had any electrical issues since 1984 and that was due to the horrendous vibration on my GS1150ES, a stator wire from the winding to the harness vibrated apart, (resoildered it) but when batts start to get weak it puts a load on charging systems and eventually leads to a failure, maybe now maybe later. (a roll of the dice) When I worked at Chevrolet over the years I probably rebulit or replaced 500 alternators most low mileage ones due to crap Delco sidepost Batteries (leaking acid at the terminals) or bad positve cables and bad grounds. Just my 2.1 cents.

I had a TB C5 carbon full system mono with K&N and jetted on the dyno, 145 RWH and 40 mpg and runs cool no flat spots, passed emissions no problem, no flames, ran strong but too many cops seemed to notice me, so I'am back to stock exhaust completly drilled internal lost some hp but the stealth is better for me. The TB system does perform and sounds nice but it needs to be dynoed and dialed in correctly.

As long as you buy bikes that don't require too much work it's not so bad doing your own work, I've been doing it all, 36 bikes over a 37 year period, I wouldn't trust any of people I,ve seen wrenching at dealerships, they would probably just make work for me and I would have to pay on top of that, like in this case and many others. I gave up 2 stroke dirt bikes in the mid 80s, I just got tired of the endless work, much better with the big XR thumper, no worky just ride.

Had the Contiforces on my CBR1000F front cupped early, treadlife ok but that was on a 1000F.

Did you try putting it on the centerstand to confirm it's the clutch dragging, because the sidestand switch cuts the engine off when put in gear, (safety thing sidestand must be up to put it in gear)if that switch is sticking or bad connection it could cause the engine to cut off when put in gear, if you try it on the centerstand and the wheel just startes spinning but engine don't cut off it's a dragging clutch. Just my 2 cents.

If it looks like this your springs are too long.

Battery went dodo, unless something was drawing it down while sitting on trickle, may want to try disconnecting the ground terminal and charging it fully then test it, or remove it, charge fully and have it load tested.

Bad Radiator cap? Bad thermostat? does the fan come on when the gauge gets up to half? Oil level ok?

I wouldn't trust most dealers to inspect anything and give me a acurate evaluation, with most of the mechanics they hire I'd have to point out where the steering head bearings are located.