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Grrrr...won't start....


Squareman357

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Everything is on except the rear cowing, the seat, and the tank. I've got a Battery Tender connected to keep the battery up for my starting attempts. The last time it ran was when I moved it to the center of the garage to begin repair work. She started first key of the starter and roared to life. No funny noises, no issues. I moved her around, got her centered, and shut her down. I fired her up one more time, first thumb of the starter, and then shut her down again. I removed both side fairings, inner fairings, upper inners, and nose cone. I then replaced the Pulsor cover and gasket, cap and o-ring. I should have started it (or tried to) then, but I then went on to do the rear undertray. Once the undertray was in place, the ECM reconnected, the battery reconnected, I started on the rear lights. I would turn the key on and test each turn signal, the brake light, and the tail light as I wired them in to make sure they were all working. Ass end done, I reassembled the tail cowling. I then moved to the front, where I installed the new nose cone and new mirrors. I tested each front turn signal and the headlight to make sure those were working. Battery was on a tender while I did the front end stuff. I then put all the side fairings back on, and turned the key to on to fire it up. She cranks fast and hard, so I don't think anything is wrong with the starter motor or the switch. She just won't start.

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The small hose you describe is most likely the overflow hose from up by the gas cap.

The small black plug (not black wire, need to work on my reading comprehension)- two wires by any chance? Check if that's your license plate light feed so we can eliminate that. Mine has ben disconnected for three years, so I don't think that would cause your problem, assuming that's what it is.

The thin black hose routes to the base of the tank and the connections there. The thicker hose routes up near the gas cap and is the overflow. This hose is much thinner than the overflow. The black plug does indeed have 2 wires, but it is NOT my plate light feed. The plate light feed looks just like the two turn signal feeds and is white. The turn signal feeds are orange and blue, and all three sit inside a rubber boot WITH the black plug with 2 wires. On secondary and tertiary explorations of the rear end, I can't find anything that would connect to that black plug, so I assume it's there for something that I don't need.

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Guest rockmeupto125

My understanding is that you only replaced the timing cover, correct? To do so you had to move the pulse generator to the new cover, as well as the wire harness and grommet. Did you plug that harness back in? Any possibility that the wiring was damaged, and was further or permanantly damaged by the manipulation of changing it over? Pinched upon reassembly?

The best I can figure on that black plug is that it is your diagnostic plug...the one you would jumper to get the FI readout codes. You don't have a blinking FI light at this point, do you?

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Okay, the black connector back there is the service check connector.

Looking at the manual, there are a total of four fuses associated with the FI system, two 10amp sub-fuses, and two 30amp (A&B) main fuses. I'm trying to figure out where these are physically located on the bike right now, as there's certainly no 30amp fuse (much less two of them) in the little fuse panel under the seat. None of the 10amp fuses under there are labeled as having anything to do with the fuel system, so there has to be another fuse block somewhere........

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Update on the saga...

Ok...first to answer the questions at hand. No I didn't remove or replace any fuses while I was under there, but I have since gone back and checked and they are all good. I checked both 30 amp fuses assoctiated with the system, and they are both good, as well as checking every fuse in the fuse box. No blown fuses.

I did change the timing cover, gasket, cap and o-ring. There was no damage to any of those parts when I took it apart, as the bike started just fine, it just leaked oil from a crack in the cover. Replaced parts exactly as they came apart, no bent or broken wires, no pulled plugs, and the unit reassembled fine. It has a recessed space in the cover where the wire passes through, and 2 humped rubber fillers to bridge the gap. A bit of Hondabond there and one other spot, push the assembly in, gasket on, button the whole thing up. No problemo.

Ok here is the good part. I got get the starter fluid. I send a 2 second blast into the ram air intakes, then I crank it. I hear a minor pop, then she cranks over and stumbles and grumbles, almost like a cold carbed bike needing choke. I try giving it a little gas and I hear another pop and she quits. There is a very, very bright white puff of smoke out of the right side can (damaged one, so I don't know if that has anything to do with it) and the FI light comes on. One more crank try, no starter fluid, and she cranks for a bit then the FI light comes on. I've got her back on the tender to charge the battery up a bit before I try starting it again.

At this point, I almost think it's a fuel issue, as in not getting any. Still not sure though. Any ideas?

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When I did the ether test? No, tank is unbolted but is sitting in the spot where it normally resides, although the rollers might not be all the way up in the front mounting spot, it's close enough.

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Guest rockmeupto125

No, I meant at some point before it refused to start. I'm wondering if dirt got somewhere.

Take a wrench, cover the area with a rag, and crack your injection line at the rail.....see if you've got fuel pressure.

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Is there some kind of valve on the fuel injection rail to open? Where would I crack it at? I'm assuming, if pressure is good, that gas is going to come out when I do so, right?

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Just a FYI, I did electrical on cars for 20 years and ran into strange problems, one was commonly overlooked, sometimes fusses test good with a test light but will not carry the amps they are rated for, just for elimanation I would swap the related fusses.

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Guest rockmeupto125

There's no valve. There's a supply line, and a return line. the pressure line should be on the left of the fuel rail, the return line on the right. (if I recall correctly) Either one should have pressure, as you've heard your fuel pump running.

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Just a FYI, I did electrical on cars for 20 years and ran into strange problems, one was commonly overlooked, sometimes fusses test good with a test light but will not carry the amps they are rated for, just for elimanation I would swap the related fusses.

I actually thought about that too. I swapped the spares in for some of the other fuses, but moving them around did no good either.

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For those that have actually taken the Pulsor apart, is it possible to reverse the pulsor or is it only one way that it can go inside the cover to be bolted down?

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Pull the plugs.

You obviously have some sort of spark if it farts when you spray ether in the intakes.

At this point, I'm suspecting fouled plugs. Happens in a second, and cleaning them won't help.

If the plugs are wet upon removal, replace them.

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Ok...first...as the title says...she lives and breathes. I still have a tiny drip of oil, which I'll add a bit more HOndabond and that should be that, but I took her on a couple mile run and it's all good.

Second, call me a dumbass. I was poring over the schematics again trying to think of what I could have done wrong. I zoomed in to 300% on the Pulsor and it looked like the wires entered on the bottom and not the top. It was kind of hard to see that diagram, and after cutting my knuckle to the white meat, THOUGHT I had put it back in correctly. I then posted if it was possible to put it in upside down. Guess what....it is. I took the cover off again, flipped the Pulsor, put the whole thing back together and crossed my fingers. Key on, thumb the starter, and BANG first thumb she hiccuped once and then roared to life. I took her for a spin before I buttoned everything up and all is wonderful again. As soon as my exhaust arrives, I'll bolt that on and take some pics.

Thanks everyone for all your help and patience, especially Tim who spent at least 2 hours on the phone with me troubleshooting remotely. Tim, cancel that visit you were gonna make this afternoon. It's alive.

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yeah who doesn't know that the pulsor can be put in upside down...DUH...we were testin ya to see how long it would take you to finally figure it out... :D

On the real, glad to see that you figured it out and shared the process...

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Got your message when I got home, Anson. Glad you got it sorted.

It's a sometimes painful process, but rewarding in the end. Next time this comes up, you'll be the guy with the answers, assuming some else plugs the thing in upside down :poke: - sorry, couldn't help myself.

Seriously, if I had a dollar for everyrime I did something like that, I could probably afford to hire a mechanic full time, all part of the fun :roll:

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