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Grrrr...won't start....


Squareman357

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Ok. I got the undertray in, reconnected all the cables and wires, double checked every single connection, and she'll crank like 40 going north but won't start. I changed the Pulsor cover and I've double checked that and everything looks fine. I double checked that the ECU plugs are connected to the proper sides (gray to gray, black to black can't fuck up that) and still she won't turn over. I double checked the fuses, all are good. I cranked the bike over to move it to the center of my garage so I know it was running before I started working. It's sitting on my Battery Tender and charge is good, plugs are good. I can't think of anything else. Anyone offer any ideas?

The only connection not connected to anything is in the wire harness for the rear turnsignals and brake lights. They are all connected (white, orange, and blue) but there is on black connector that doesn't see to go to anything. I don't think that has anything to do with the not starting, but I thought I'd throw that out there. I am about to unbutton the rear cowl again and take another look. Please help. Thanks.

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Fuel pump runs as soon as I turn the key. I can hit the engine kill and turn IT back on and the fuel pump recycles, so it isn't that. I have at least a quarter tank of gas, so it isn't that either. I've double checked under the tank to see that nothing has come loose there and all plugs and connectors are good. The only friggen things I did to the bike today were to put on a new nose fairing, right fairing, pulsor cover and gasket, and a new undertray with new turn signals and brake/tail light. All lights and electicals work fine. Since I had to disconnect the battery and disconnect the ECU to put in the new undertray, is there some sequence I need to do to reset everything? I'm going apeshit here because I'm running out of time and it's looking like everything is conspiring to keep me from going on this trip. GRRRRR. So...anyone have any other ideas?

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Anson, looking at the manual I can't see where pulling the pulse generator cover and replacing it would cause any problems, seems you'd have to pull the rotor to mess with the timing, and even then it would be hard to screw up with the way it's indexed.

You said you smelled fuel when you tried to start it, so we'll assume it's a spark problem for now. Go over every wire you even worked near, check for pinched or nicked wires coming out of the ECU. Be patient, take you time and review everthign you did. It's there somewhere.

Do you have a multimeter?

edit- this mystery black wire, is it solid black, or is there a stripe of color on it?

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Not trying to be a smart ass here - because I've done this - but did you check the red safety switch on the handlebar ?

Just thought I'd ask ! Not trying to offend anyone -

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Not trying to be a smart ass here - because I've done this - but did you check the red safety switch on the handlebar ?

Just thought I'd ask ! Not trying to offend anyone -

Engine wouldn't crank if that were the case.

I'm with Tim, go over everything you've had apart, then unhook the battery for 30 seconds or so for good measure. This will reset the ECU.

Try tapping your BAS, as well. It's possible you moved it around enough to trip it, and it may not have reset as it should.

Next time you try starting the bike, try opening the throttle wide open. This should clear any unburned fuel out of the combustion chambers.

FWIW, I believe the mystery connector you are referring to is the EFI check connector, if it's in the bundle that goes to your tail lights.

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I took off the tail cowl again and pulled every conector fromt he undertray. I then checked every fuse under there and there is nothing blown. I put everything back and checked the routing for the wires to the ECU. Nothing is pinched, everything is routed where it should be going to the undertray. I haven't taken the batter loose again, though I have taken the ECU off again for more than 30 seconds to check to see if the black plug was supposed to connect to it. It isn't. The black lug sits inside the boot with the turn signal and plate light sockets and doesn't seem to connect to anything. It still cranks like 40 going north so I don't think it's a starter or anything related to that. Engine kill works as it should, so that isn't a problem either. I don't have a multimeter, I need to get one of those, but I wouldn't know where to start checking if I did LOL.

North whats a BAS? Oh yeah, Bank Angle Sensor. That may very well have tripped because it's one of the things I had to pull to take out the undertray, and if it doesn't like being upside down or sideways, then it tripped LOL. How to I reset it?

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I'm not too with it with the FI models but the BAS should reset by itself, but try tapping on it. they do go bad and have had recalls on ST 1100's.

Did you check for spark?

1 @ 3 and 2 @ 4 are paired off the same coil so check spark on say 1 @ 4.

Make sure plugs didn't foul, They are tiny and if the bike doesn't start right away they will foul quickly and need cleaned.

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Went out to the garage and disconnected the BAS. Held it upright and tried to start. No love. Turned it over and the FI light came on and she wouldn't crank. Turned it back right and it would crank again, but still no love. Reconnected BAS. It's not that. Looks light that is working as it should. Haven't gone so far as to pull plugs. That's a last resort that I'm trying desperately to avoid.

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They WERE, and since I didn't remove anything in that area, I didn't want to mess with anything extra. Bike fired right up when I went to start working on it, and was running strong. It only stopped firing after I worked on it, so I was working from the assumption that something in what I worked on caused it not to start. I'm actually afraid at this point that if I go messing with something else, I'll only make it worse. Grrr.

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Guest rockmeupto125

A quick test.

Spray starting fluid in your intakes. If you've got any spark at all, it should at least fire after a couple seconds of revolution. If it doesn't, you've got no spark....whether its the plugs, or your primary circuit.

Since it last ran, you've changed the pulsor cover, and pulled all the electronics off the undertail. Those are the places to concentrate.

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Gotta go to the store to get some starting fluid. I rechecked the Pulsor and it's solid. Bolted in correctly, in alignment with the rotor. I've disconnected and reconnected the ECU and can't see anything else back there that could cause a problem. I'll go get the starting spray and take the tank loose again and see what happens when I do that.

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Guest rockmeupto125

You don't need to take the tank loose to spray ether into the intakes.

You will have to if you are gonna play with the plugs, however...

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Guest rockmeupto125

Air intakes are in the front of the motorcycle...two inlets below your headlight.

If the cowl and ram air ducts are off, then you can spray into whatever passage is available.

Starting fluid will follow the air flow, and travel through air cleaners. There's no need to spray it directly into the air horns.

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Gotcha. So I was in the right place, just thinking too hard. Sorry, this is frustrating the hell out of me. Store doesn't open until 9 am, so I'm going to do some busy work until I can get some starter spray.

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Guest rockmeupto125

I'm wondering about that black plug you descibed...and wonder if you are missing one of your connections somewhere...

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Thought about that. Went back and took the whole rear end apart looking for where that could connect to, and I didn't find anything. There are no other wires that run to the rear besides the rear brake light connections, turn signal connections, license plate light connection, and the ECM. Everything is connected and all lights are working properly, so that black plug is extra. SOmeone said it might be to connect a diagnostic unit but I don't know for sure. Nothing in the manual lists that part. I think on the '99 model there is one other connection back there called the Baro Sensor, but that was only for '99. My '02 doesn't have that sensor. There is nothing loose, and I've traced back everything to make sure all plugs are connected properly. I'm baffled.

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I you had the tank off double check the fuel line/vent plumbing. It's a common mistake that will stop a XX in it's tracks. (don't ask me how I know this  :D )

Just came back in from checking that. The only thing I can see is that there is a thin hose routing from the tank, through some kind of bracket, and looping back to nothing. Not the fuel overflow hose, a thin one that I think is the vacuum hose or the air vent hose. SHould that be attached to something?

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Guest rockmeupto125

We too are baffled. Don't let your frustration get to you. Approach everything methodically, and assume nothing. That doesn't mean you can't begin with a few basic tenets...such as since the last time it ran, it didn't make big noises.

So you are probably safe to assume its in the fuel or electrical system.

Those are the systems you worked with. When your pump runs, does it it switch off or keep running?

What is presently off the motorcyle? Side cowlings?

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The small hose you describe is most likely the overflow hose from up by the gas cap.

The small black plug (not black wire, need to work on my reading comprehension)- two wires by any chance? Check if that's your license plate light feed so we can eliminate that. Mine has ben disconnected for three years, so I don't think that would cause your problem, assuming that's what it is.

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