killed the battery

[bar10dah]

Checked the battery. Strange, but I get 14 something volts at idle and 13 something volts at 5K rpms! Shouldn't it be the other way around?

Went for a quick ride. Damn stop signs are just popping up around here! Damn development... Why do they have to build houses along the COOL deserted roads?!

She ran beautifully! No more dimming lights. Gauges stay on. I'M BACK BABY!! :cycle:

[bar10dah]

Oh man! I LOVE the new emoticons!! :rockon:

[Northman]

It took a month to get a new reg?

Where'd ya get it, and how much?

[bar10dah]

No, not a month. It took about two weeks. I think the holidays plus the snow that blanketed the east coast is what caused it to be delayed so much. I got it from partmonster. The Electrex for $135.

[bar10dah]

Okay... did I get a bad R/R? My bike died today. Had to push start it to get home. Put the charger on the battery at 2 amps. It registered done in less than five minutes. Could have been 1 minute, I don't know since I put it on the charger and went inside the house for about 5 mins. So I run the bike up to 5K with the highbeam on and the DMM reads 12.38 V.

Seeing that I only put 700 miles (shut up Carlos... :greenfingers: ) on my bike since I put in the R/R, what do you think?

Partmonster: warranty item?

[Pete in PA]

OMG! 700 miles and reg dead again!

DO THE YAMAHA SWAP!

I posted that I took the Honda one apart and found that LARGE space taken up with what looks like tiny resistors from a kids Radio Shack experiment.

[bar10dah]

Did the leak down test: .553 mA

Did the R/R connector test: .5 ohm between the yellow wires, battery voltage of 12.68 V at the red/white, ground at the green

[Dotetcher]

Check for continuity between all three of the yellow wires and ground. According to the manual if there is continuity the stator is bad. I just went through this recently. Replaced the stator and within a week the rectifier went south. I think my situation was that both were going at the same time. I just got the Electrex rectifier from Joe yesterday. Only took four days between placing the order and recieving the part. Great service! So far things are OK

[bar10dah]

No continuity at the stator wires.

Has anyone else gotten the Electrex unit? Any problems?

I called Electrex (now Electrosport) and they're making me go through Partmonster to get this item replaced just because I didn't buy it directly through them. Damn...

On a side note. My voltage at the battery is 12.68 V. According the the service manual, it's above the cut-off. But still low. So, as a precautionary means, I bought a new battery.

Also, during the leakdown test, I got about twice what I should have had. It was .553 mA. Any concern?

[Rales]

I'm having a similar problem I dont mean to highjack your thread but I would hate to open another thread for a similar problem. I was riding yesterday and got stuck in traffic. I decided to turn off the bike, no use wasting fuel. I let the fan run till it turned off as usual. Upon traffic starting to move I went to restart and it was dead, not even a little turn over, just dead. So I push started it and it came alive just fine. I got it home with no problems. I turned it off and tried to restart, no problem. Upon investigation today, with the key off I get 12.6 volts, with it running I get about the same at idle. When I rev it up it only goes to about 14.4. All of these seem below the specs that were posted previously. I will be checking grounds and cleaning them also, along with the contacts. I also took the battery to the auto parts store and they said it tested out fine each time. Is my battery toast or should I start thinking about the stator and rectifier? I will do more testing and get back to you guys.

Thanks

Dave

[bar10dah]

I'm having a similar problem I dont mean to highjack your thread

No problem at all Dave!

[bar10dah]

Okay, I got my new battery and I tested the voltage. I'm still only getting 12.98 V. It's better than the 12.68 V I was getting with the old battery.

Will someone check their standing voltage and tell me what they get? The manual says I need upwards of 14 V, but I'm not getting it.

Also, is someone locally here in metro Phoenix willing to let me "borrow" their R/R just so I can put it in my system long enough for me to do a test to see if it'll supply the regulated voltage? That way I can rule out if it's the R/R, or some other componenet that's not letting my battery recharge.

The reason I'm thinking of trying this is because I had an earlier post, right after I installed the new R/R, that showed my charging voltage to only be 13 V.

Strange, but I get 14 something volts at idle and 13 something volts at 5K rpms!

Perhaps this meant the R/R was bad when I installed it. Or that I have something else that's wrong. So, anybody willing to help me out? I'm off work all day tomorrow. I have an MSF course to teach on Sat and Sun. I work Monday night. I'm off Tuesday. And I fly out to VA on Wednesday for a week.

[bar10dah]

New battery. New R/R.

Ran the bike up to 5K, with the high beam on. Voltage across the battery is 13.34 V. What gives? The manual says I should have 14.7 - 15.5 V.

Anybody have any ideas?

[Pete in PA]

I would say you're fine.

I only get 13.5 volts when above 3K rpm. My system's been working fine for years now with the R1 reg/rec. My battery is even on its way out.

If you pull the headlight fuse the voltage goes up.

[bar10dah]

Using the fault chart on the electrexusa.com website, I get this:

(flow chart choice)

[Directions]

*readings/answers*

FIRST ATTEMPT

[start and rev the engine up to 2500 rpm. Check the battery voltage.]

*13.6 V*

(Higher than 13.5 V)

[Rev the engine up to 5000 rpm. Check the reading on the meter.]

*13.2 V*

(Lower than 14.8 V)

[Charging system perfectly OK.]

SECOND ATTEMPT

[start and rev the engine up to 2500 rpm. Check the battery voltage.]

*13.5 V*

(Lower than 13.5 V)

[Count the number of different wire colors coming from the RR.]

*3*

(4 or less)

[Let the engine idle, and connect the BLACK multimeter lead up to the battery (+). Connect the RED multimeter lead up to the RED output wire of the RR. Leave the RR connected up to the bike. Check the reading on the meter. Leave the engine idling!]

*0.16 V*

(Less than 0.2 V)

[Connect the RED multimeter lead up to the battery (-). Connect the BLACK multimeter lead up to the negative output of the RR. Honda:Green. Check the reading on the meter. Leave the engine idling!]

*0.15 V*

(Less than 0.2 V)

[if you have 4 different color wires...blah blah blah...]

*3*

(If you have LESS than 4 different wire colors)

[stop the engine. Disconnect the wires coming from the stator. Switch the multimeter to Ohms. Measure the resistance between all three wires coming from the stator.]

*0.5 ohms. Directions say to disconnect the wires coming from the stator. I do this by removing the RR.*

(all readings are within 0.5 to 2.0 ohms)

[Connect one of the multimeter leads up to one of the three yellow wires. Connect the other multimeter lead up to the enginecase. Check the reading on the meter.]

*OL*

(You have no reading at all, or OL in the display)

[switch the multimeter VAC. Connect the multimeter leads between two of the three yellow wires coming from the stator. Start the engine and rev it up to approx 5000 rpm. Check the reading on the meter. Check all three yellow connections.]

*66 VAC, without the RR connected to the bike. Instructions don't say to reconnect it or the wires from the stator! But I get 10.8 VAC with the RR connected*

CONCLUSION

So at this point with the RR connected, I get instructions that say if the voltages are not equal or below 50 VAC, then the stator is bad. But if I'm not to have the RR in place, then it rules out the stator as a problem and goes on until I came to a point I couldn't go any farther because the decision box doesn't have the reading I get.

[Iceman_40]

Have you tested your Mulit meter?

I've seen lots of them that don't measure right. I've even see bad leads on the MM cause problems. Might not be your problem but getting your hands on another meter wouldn't be a bad idea.

[Pete in PA]

Those numbers don't have to be exact.

Depending on how charged your battery is you will get different readings.

The first step is to start with a FULLY charged battery.

What is your reading with key off?

You ARE using a digital multimeter right?

Take a reading with the key off battery must read over 12.5 volts. if not first charge the battery. Got a Battery Tender? It's a must have.

Start bike rev to 2500 rpm. Must be 13.5v volts or higher.

Rev to 5k rpm. must be below 14.8v you're good.

I again say your system is fine, what's the problem?

If you start the bike shine the headlight on a wall any rev from idle to 2k rpm does it get brighter? It's fine.

[bar10dah]

Okay, stator on order.

Time for a plug: This place has some pretty good prices on parts! They beat out ServiceHonda, RonAyers, and HondaOnlineParts.

A guy from the CBR List works there, Justin.

https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html

[bar10dah]

Have you tested your Mulit meter?

No, but I don't think it could have gone too far out of alignment, if at all. I compared readings a while back with a multimeter that gets calibrated every four months and they were dead on with each other.

[bar10dah]

What is your reading with key off?

12.94 V.

You ARE using a digital multimeter right?

Yes.

I again say your system is fine, what's the problem?

The problem is I'm only getting 10.8 VAC out of the stator, and I'm supposed to get over 50 VAC.

[bar10dah]

First of all, thank you everyone for helping me get this problem fixed! After the stator gets here, I'll let you know the verdict.

Also to note: I was thinking about this earlier. Maybe my stator was bad all along? 700 miles ago, my bike wouldn't start. I thought it was a bad battery. Went out and bought a charger. (by the way, the battery says charge at 1.5 amps but the charger is 2 amp. any potential problems?) It tested good. Replaced the R/R and my voltages get close enough to normal so I continue to ride. Then recently my bike dies again! Get a new R/R on order. Tested the bike, but still not getting the right readings. Troubleshoot down to the stator. So here's my thoughts. If the stator is bad, and puts out low voltage, that means current increases to meet the power demands. P=IE? So the increased current would burn up my R/R? And that's what killed my first R/R? And 700 miles later, kill my second R/R? Okay, where are the electrical engineers on this board?

[bar10dah]

Got a reply from my parts dept:

Hi,

 

Part 31120-MAT-004 is currently on back order. We do not have an estimated release date.

 

Thanks

 

Vanessa

Zanotti's

It's just as well I suppose. I leave this weekend for training in Biloxi and won't be back for two weeks. Hopefully, they'll have an update by the time I return!

[bar10dah]

Oh man, I forgot all about this thread!

The stator finally came in. It only took a few weeks. Got it all installed. New stator, battery, and R/R. And, just recently I added a voltometer.

http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...=26794&start=29

I don't recall how many miles I've put on the new parts so far, but I'll post it later. I'll also post if I have another problem with the electrical system.