bar10dah Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 So, it's been beautiful riding weather around here lately and I've been riding my bike a lot. Today, I went to an appointment at about 2pm. At a quarter to 4pm, I click the starter on my bike and it spins a couple of times and stops. WTF?! Hit it again twice more. Damn, battery croaked! Pulled back out of the space, straightened her up, powerwalked the bike and popped the clutch. Bike fires right up! Damn, it doesn't take much speed at all to get her running! Rider her home, all the while the gauges are jumping. Speedo jumping from actual speed to 0 and back. And tach going from RPM's to 0 and back. Kept the RPM's up the whole way home. Pulled into the garage and let her idle. Idled fine. Hit the kill switch and then tried to restart her. No deal. Time for a new battery! This looks like a good deal. http://motorcyclebatteriesusa.com/battery-...asp?battery=754 Since I'll have her apart for a few days, thought I'd pull the tank and finally replace the sending unit. My fuel gauge works, but the low fuel light doesn't. Followed the troubleshooting guide in the service manual and it says the sending unit is faulty. When I had the tank apart, I pulled the petcock off. There's a mesh screen in there! I couldn't get it out, though. Didn't want to pull on it too hard, but it's fitted up into the tank. Guess I'll just leave it there and reinstall the petcock. So, I guess this bike has a nonreplaceable fuel filter? At least, one that keeps debris in the tank from going into the carbs. Good to know. Guess I'll just do all it's other maintenance while I'm at it. Partsmonster guy! If you're reading this, I already emailed Leslie Lehman for some parts quotes. Will you add 4 iridium plugs to that order, please? I believe the part numbers for them are CR9EHVX-9. Also need to do a coolant change and clutch/brake fluid change. Gonna be a fun couple of weekends! Glad I finally have a garage to work in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 sounds like the rectifier...mine is doing the same thing with a new battery JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 First check the chargeing system. Battery may be all right. RR may be bad. My red light died too. I don't miss it. Nothing like doing over 100 at night and all of the sudden a red light turns on. :shock: The fuel filter is like a cigar in shape and it does come out for cleaning. just pull it out. I pull my bikes into the basement for maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 seems like instrument malfuntion is a common symptom of regular/rectifier failure...Sever folks have mention the same behavior prior to R/R death...mine did the same thing and I replaced it with an R1 R/R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1dR3d Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 I was told by a mechanic that a BAD battery can ruin the RR and even the stator under extreme conditons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Bad batter can cause other problems, but its highly unlikely. The gauges jumping is purely a function of the low voltage condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted November 19, 2004 Author Share Posted November 19, 2004 So now we're talking the R/R? :sad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 No. Start with the basics. Get a fully charged battery in the system first. If your batter will hold a good charge and pass a load test, more than likely you have a bad regulator. If your battery won't hold a good charge and pass a load test, you have a bad battery first. So you would then replace the battery with a fully charged one, and run diagnostics on the charging system. Work UP, not down. Keeps you from spending time and money you don't have to. What I'm saying is, don't assume its the charging circuit until you have verified that the battery and system grounds are in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted November 19, 2004 Share Posted November 19, 2004 Yo. I just did the diagnostics, per the manual, last nite: Required for diagnosis: 5mm hex key (to remove tailsection) 6mm hex key (to remove tailsection) Voltmeter Bike and key. 1. Check battery voltage at battery when sitting, key off. Result: 13.0-13.2. Replace battery if below 12.3 2. Check battery voltage with engine warm, highbeam on, and engine running at 5k RPM. Result: 14.7-15.5 at the battery. 3. Verify harness condition. Key off. Remove tailsection and unplug R/R. On harness (bike) side: 3a. Check ground continuity. Green wire, continuity to ground. Should be zero ohm. 3b. Check battery voltage across Red and Green. Should be same as voltage across battery. 3c: Charging coil, yellow wires. Check across 1, 2, then 1, 3, then 2, 3. Resistance should be .22-.28 ohm. Book says if all is within spec, you need a new R/R. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted November 24, 2004 Author Share Posted November 24, 2004 I forgot. Which one was the longer lasting one? http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_appOther...ID=29684&mfid=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted November 24, 2004 Share Posted November 24, 2004 Iridium's are supposed to last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted November 24, 2004 Author Share Posted November 24, 2004 That's what I thought, but I just wanted to make sure before heading out to the store. Thanks! :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted November 25, 2004 Author Share Posted November 25, 2004 Damn, they don't have those in stock. Guess I'm off to sparkplugs.com instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted November 25, 2004 Share Posted November 25, 2004 You might check your local auto parts store. We have a store called O'Reily's in our area that sells NGK. The CR9EHIX-9 (stock #6216) are $6.99 and the IMR 9A-9H (stock #6966) are $10.99. I think both are cheaper than at sparkplugs.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlasticxxHead Posted November 26, 2004 Share Posted November 26, 2004 If it is the reg/rec this may help ... I started this thread a while back and have had no problems to date... you inital problem was the same as my situation.. I drove to class fine, 50 min later i had a dead batt...guages were all dropped to zero on the ride home... don't ride the thing i could fry your wiring system... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...4712&highlight= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted December 4, 2004 Author Share Posted December 4, 2004 1. Check battery voltage at battery when sitting, key off.Result: 13.0-13.2. Replace battery if below 12.3 12.5 V. Low, but above the cut-off. 2. Check battery voltage with engine warm, highbeam on, and engine running at 5k RPM.Result: 14.7-15.5 at the battery. 11.56 V. Damn. 3. Verify harness condition. Key off. Remove tailsection and unplug R/R. On harness (bike) side:3a. Check ground continuity. Green wire, continuity to ground. Should be zero ohm. Continuity good. But got 0.2 ohm. 3b. Check battery voltage across Red and Green. Should be same as voltage across battery. 12.5 V. Good. 3c: Charging coil, yellow wires. Check across 1, 2, then 1, 3, then 2, 3. Resistance should be .22-.28 ohm. 0.5 ohms. Bad. Book says if all is within spec, you need a new R/R. Fuck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted December 4, 2004 Author Share Posted December 4, 2004 Book says if all is within spec, you need a new R/R. Wait a minute... Huh?! If ANY of it is OUT of spec, then I need a new R/R, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted December 4, 2004 Author Share Posted December 4, 2004 If it is the reg/rec this may help ... I started this thread a while back and have had no problems to date... you inital problem was the same as my situation.. I drove to class fine, 50 min later i had a dead batt...guages were all dropped to zero on the ride home... don't ride the thing i could fry your wiring system...http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...4712&highlight= Thanks. Good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted December 4, 2004 Author Share Posted December 4, 2004 Another thing to note: My wires/connectors didn't show any heat marks/burns/blacking like in some of the pics from the other posts. :???: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 5, 2004 Share Posted December 5, 2004 Book says if all is within spec, you need a new R/R. Wait a minute... Huh?! If ANY of it is OUT of spec, then I need a new R/R, right? No. What that test does is check the stator, not the R/R. If the stator is good, then the R/R must be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted December 5, 2004 Author Share Posted December 5, 2004 Since my resistance is .5 instead of .2 that means my stator is bad?! :evil: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 5, 2004 Share Posted December 5, 2004 Well, doing the math, subtract the .2 you got for resistance on your ground side from your readings, and you're in range (barely). Were all readings .5? Across all 3 coils? I would doubt that all would be barely out of range enough to quit charging. What you would most likely find is an open circuit in one leg (or two), which would still charge, but barely. Based on your readings, I would replace my R/R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted December 5, 2004 Author Share Posted December 5, 2004 Yeah, all three. But just to be sure, I'm checking from one pin to the next? Say, three yellow wires: 1, 2, and 3. Checking from 1 to 2. 1 to 3. And 2 to 3? Or am I checking from 1, 2, and 3 individually all to ground? Manual only says Item: charging coil line Terminal: yellow to yellow Spec: 0.22-0.26 ohm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 5, 2004 Share Posted December 5, 2004 Yes, the way you are checking. It could be a meter problem, as well. What happens when you cross the leads on the meter? Do you get 0? I still say you're close enough on your readings, anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 I just received my R/R today. Gonna install it and take her for a test ride. I'll post results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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