BDAZ XX Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 I was reading GriffXX thread about his front caliper Q. If the plunger on the front caliper were not able to move and push fluid to the rear brake then the back brake would not work by grabbing the front brake lever. I am at work now and cant look at it, is there anyway to stop it from moving on the front wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 Great minds think alike :grin: I posted an idea like that over a year ago, and got jumped on for it :???: . I was thinking you could split a piece of pipe of just the right length and diameter, and use hose clamps to hold it on between the lower mount and the outside of the slave cylinder on the front fork. This would keep the whole caliper assembly from moving, just like you're thinking, Randy. Downside is you only get four of the six pistons up front with the front lever, and you'd still be linked back to front. It'd help with the back end's tendency to get a little squirrely when hard on the front, but it'd do nothing for potential back to front lock-up situations such as Jimkazi's incident recently. It was, in my mind, more of a "let's see how I like this" than an actual attempt at de-linking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDAZ XX Posted May 18, 2003 Author Share Posted May 18, 2003 Downside is you only get four of the six pistons up front with the front lever, and you'd still be linked back to front. It'd help with the back end's tendency to get a little squirrely when hard on the front, but it'd do nothing for potential back to front lock-up situations such as Jimkazi's incident recently. Tim only 4 of the 6 work when the front lever is pulled anyway! I was thinking of doing it on both front and back 2ndary master cyl. Is it possible????????? I dont have a good picture of the master cyl. to look at it.sometimes I hate work! :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 The back is hydraulically linked to the front, there's no slave cylinder back there, you'd have to remove or block off the hydraulic line :sad: . Tim only 4 of the 6 work when the front lever is pulled anyway! That's why a purpose made de-linking kit is the way to go, IMO, if you're going to do it. My front lever now gives me all six up front, no back. If you try rigging it like we're talking about, just see if you like it any better, then drop the $$ on de-linking if you do. I'm happy I did it :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy1100 Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 So what's the $$$ on the delinking kit? Sources? Am I mistaken or do you need a different size front master cylinder if you de-link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 www.321ignition.co.uk Seb's the guy to talk to. I paid around $440, with a matching clutch line (the kit includes all new braided brake lines), but it was on sale at the time, so check their site for current pricing. I was told that most people are fine with the stock master (1/2" bore). I put close to 2000 miles on ot that way and respectfully disagree. The brakes worked fine, but they were mushy and had very little feel. Joe (rockmeupto125) helped me source a 5/8" bore master cylinder that's almost indentical to stock. I had the part #, but it was saved in a PM on the old board. I got the # from xrdracer, maybe he'll show up and help out (again ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack82097 Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 On a similar note, I've seen the Galfer stainless steel front brake line kit for sale at several different online stores. It's only ~ $100, so I figure it doesn't de-link the front from the back. So, my question is if anybody knows if the Galfer kit replaces the OEM fronts line for line, or if it just replaces the upper hose? Thanks, Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBird Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 www.321ignition.co.ukSeb's the guy to talk to. I paid around $440, with a matching clutch line (the kit includes all new braided brake lines), but it was on sale at the time, so check their site for current pricing. I was told that most people are fine with the stock master (1/2" bore). I put close to 2000 miles on ot that way and respectfully disagree. The brakes worked fine, but they were mushy and had very little feel. Joe (rockmeupto125) helped me source a 5/8" bore master cylinder that's almost indentical to stock. I had the part #, but it was saved in a PM on the old board. I got the # from xrdracer, maybe he'll show up and help out (again ) I tried a guys with an 01 XX and the ignition kit, and the stok master cylinder--it seemed fine to me. Think of all the money you would save on rear rotors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GimPin Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 I dont know much about the LBS on our bikes why would you want to disconnect it ... I'm not really even sure what it does or how it works .. info would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hokie Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 I dont know much about the LBS on our bikes why would you want to disconnect it ... I'm not really even sure what it does or how it works .. info would be appreciated Apply the front brake and you get the front brake and some rear brake as well. Apply the rear brake and you get the rear brake and some front brake as well. Why would you want to disconnect it: Redbird said it best: "If I want rear brake I'll use the rear brake pedal!" Or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDAZ XX Posted May 19, 2003 Author Share Posted May 19, 2003 That and in rain, on slick roads, using the back brake, my front wheel locked up and I went down a couple of years back. I dont mind the rear being linked, its the front I dont like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrdracer Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 Hi Gents, Here are the part numbers for the M/C and lever required to replace the stock items. The lever is available from your local rip-off Honda dealer, I believe. However the M/C is not. You must out source it from either Japan or Europe. You can probably get it through David Silver Spares in the U.K., sales@davidsilverspares.co.uk , tell them Howie sent you. Lever P/N : 53170-MBW-006 M/C P/N : 45510-MY9-871 Cheers, howie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted May 21, 2003 Share Posted May 21, 2003 Colin, I had similar questions before I bought the Galfer lines. The front line kit completely replaces the stock front brake plumbing. The kit consists of two lines that run from the master cylinder to the respective brake calipers. It includes the appropriate banjo bolts and sealing washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 I've experienced the rear locking up while breaking hard and downshifting, especially on the track. May have to do with inadequate throttle blipping to rev the engine on the downshift, but I'd also like to try de-linking the brakes. Anyone done it? How about a How-To? Is the mod reversible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 Anyone done it? Yes, several guys here, including myself, have de-linked How about a How-To Remove all the bodywork, including the gas tank. Pull out the 15 miles of lines, valves, slave cylinders and such that is the stock system. Install the bracket on the front fork that replaces the slave cylinder, install and bleed the six lines that make up the new system. And replacing the front master cylinder with a larger bore unit is optional, I did it, and I believe everyone here who has de-linked has found this nessecary. Some say it ain't, to each his own. Is the mod reversible? Theoretically, yes, nothing is damaged removing the stock system, just don't ask me to help you bleed 'em if you decide put it back on.......... :razz: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil Posted May 22, 2003 Share Posted May 22, 2003 Cheers, Redbird! That sounds like quite a BIG task, are the results worth it? For now it's all a bit COSTLY as June budget is already allocated to RaceTech susp. upgrade. Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 24, 2003 Share Posted May 24, 2003 Cheers to you, Phil! :grin: Sounds worse than it is. You can do it in a day no problem, assuming you've bought a ready made kit. Well worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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