mack82097

Can anyone tell me where #18 from the Ron Ayers microfiche goes? Is it applied directly to the cowl, taillight, or fender? The microfiche doesn't give me any idea where they go. http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/rea...l/rear_cowl.cfm My bikes previous owner hacked the hell out of it's fender, so I decided to replace it with a new one. Now that everything is all back together, I have two pieces called Rubber, Taillight left over. I'd like to put them on where they're supposed to go. Thanks!!

There are three fender part numbers on ronayers.com and I have no idea which is the correct one for my 2002 XX. Anyone here can help me out? http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/rea...580&parent=5570 The fender is #7. Here are the three part numbers associated with #7: 80100-MAT-670, 80100-MAT-A00, 80100-MAT-A20. Thanks, Colin

Not the case with the 'Bird... It's like the headlight modules was designed for HIDs... Not so the interior of the cowl... :roll: I just spent the better part (well, on and off) of the past two days trying to find a place for my ballasts. I think that if I had to do it again... I'd get the HIDs with the longer wires. My shorter ones really limited where the ballasts could go. Which HID's did you get? The McCulloch's on eBay have pretty long wires.

Does the HID kit come with a reflector or projector to help focus the light? I've seen HID kits installed in cars using the OEM halogen reflector and the results have been not so good. The HID light is not focused, there's hotspots, and there is a fair amount of glare for the oncoming drivers.

Saw this on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

Try Seb at 321Ignition. He's in the UK but has pretty quick delivery times. He offers both de-linking kits and kits that retain the linked brakes. His kits don't include the clutch line, but you can add it for extra $$. The lines he uses are Goodridge, and they are top quality. I've bought 2 kits from him so far and highly recommend them. Here's his website, but for some reason only the homepage is working. Try his e-mail address. http://www.321ignition.co.uk/index.html enquiries@321ignition.co.uk

Just checked my factory service manual. The proper torque value for the VFR bars is 20 ft lbs.

That would be me and my swingarm bolt. Once torqued properly using the tool, problem went away.

To answer your questions: The quality is top notch, whether you choose the EVO II or III, and the Goodridge SS hoses are just as good as any other aftermarket brand. I also like the fact that the fittings are threaded on to the hoses, so one can remove a hose without breaking the seal at the banjo bolt. I've installed these kits in my VFR and XX, respectively, and they went in without a hitch. Took about 1 week to receive my kits from the UK. I am completely impressed with how well the kits work. FYI, some people may urge you to purchase a larger front master cylinder to install during the conversion due to the conversion. I did this for the XX, but not the VFR, and I actually prefer the OEM master because if offers more feel through the brake lever. I am completely satisfied, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another kit. Let me know if you have any other questions, Colin

Check this link out: http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/car...uretor_comp.cfm Thread pan screw (#17) into the valve plate (#10). Once that's done, just give the screw a nice, solid tug and the assembly will pop out of the vacuum slide. You shouldn't have to pull too hard, as the only thing holding the plate in is an O-ring (I think). Let me know if you have any other questions.

I'll confirm it, now that my memory is back. When I installed the FactoryPro jet kit in my stock carbs, there were definitely no covers on the pilot screws.

Steve, If I remember correctly, take one of the carb top screws and thread it partly into the shaft above the needle. Then using that screw, put the needle assembly out of the slide. Also, I didn't think that these pilot scews had covers per se, but that the screws have a "D" shaped head which statisfied the EPA's requirement to make them tamper-resistant. FactoryPro sells a tool to adjust these screws, and they also come in their jet kits. -Colin

No pilots included. The Factory kit for the XX only includes main jets and needles.

14mm allen wrench for the pivot bolt

I disassembled and then re-torqued the swingarm pivot bolt, adjusting bolt, and lock nut. Problem solved, even though I'm not sure why this worked. Hats off the Redbird, who lent me that special Honda socket so that I could properly removed and re-torque the lock nut. Thanks to all for your helpful tips. Colin

I've been snugging them inward. That might explain the looser chain. I'll try snugging outward. Thanks.

Joe, I triple check both sides of the axle before and after I torque it down and it's always dead even. I also just bought a brand new torque wrench just for this task. Still no luck, and I'm worried that the axle will fly off when I least expect it to. My next step is to remove and retorque the swingarm pivot bolt, adjuster bolt, and lock nut. I just have to order a special lock nut wrench from Honda to do it. This is becoming a royal pain in the ass.

I'm snugging the bolts down, but still doesn't help any. I may just have to bite the bullet and bring it in to a dealer to check out the whole swingarm pivot bolt, adjusting bolt, lock nut assembly.

I'm having a bit of trouble trying to get my axle to stay aligned, and it's causing way too much chain slop. It's a daily ritual...I loosen the axle nut, back out the left adjuster screw to pull the left side of the axle back in line with the right side, then torque to 69 ft/lbs. This still happens even if I just go around the block. I'm at the end of my rope trying to figure it out. The only other thing I did recently was to remove and regrease the swingarm pivot bolt. However, I did not touch the swingarm pivot adjusting bolt or lock nut. Could this be the source of my problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the info. I placed my order from www.hipersports.com and they have the ZVM in stock. Also order a front sprocket because from what I've heard, only the front needs replacing with every new chain. Thanks again.

Hello, It's about time to change my chain. I see everyone likes the DID 530 ZVM, but its hard to find. I did some web surfing and found the EK 530 SRX Grand Prix Series Chain. The specs say it's rated to 1100cc max engine size and it's only $85. Am I missing something here, but this seems like a pretty good deal. Has anyone heard about or tried out this chain? Thanks. -Colin

Yes, it's used to support the centerstand in the up position for any full system that elimates the left muffler. I'm using this Two Bros piece with my Muzzy full system, as the Muzzy bracket didn't fit for some reason. The bracket is installed on the left side by the shock link. -Remove the shock link socket bolt (frame side) -Place the bracket (it fits perfectly against the frame) -Insert bolt using a washer under the bolt head and on each side of bracket -Torque new lock nut to 43 lb-ft. I sourced my own longer bolt but I noticed some surface rust on it after a few weeks, so I ordered a Titanium Hex Flange Bolt M10X85X1.25 from RaceBolts.com. It would have been easier for me to just get all the hardware from TwoBros. -Colin

Chizuck, Call Two Brothers Racing (www.twobros.com) and just order the centerstand stop, extra long hex bolt, washers, and locknut from their full system for the Blackbird. It's everything you need to install the centerstand bracket and it costs about $20. That's the route I used and it works great. Colin

Does anyone know if the LED version of the Clear Alternatives taillight for the 1997-1998 'Bird is DOT approved? According to their site, the non-LED clear taillight is not DOT approved. The last thing in the world I need is another ticket. Thanks, Colin

Seb is referring to the best way to remove the front to rear linking brake pipe. If I remember correctly, it's a long metal pipe(s) that gets disconnected at both ends from the front secondary master cylinder and from the rear master. You then need to bend/twist it so that you can then pull it out from the rear end. Also a good call going with the Hyperpro springs. IMO it's the best bang for the buck to improve the forks. -Colin