Andy1100

http://www.powercommander.com/suppsoft.shtml http://www.powercommander.com/102-111.shtml Looks like the M102-003 is the one for you, same one I'm running.

Hey REXX send a PM to partmonster, he's a TBR dealer and gives discounts to forum members...

Possible CCT, those are the RPM's where the CCT rattle occurs, and I definitely noticed a reduction in vibes after switching to the X-11 CCT.... Do you hear a light rattle around those RPM's?????

Ok I've done the 6mm ride height adjustment and have never had any problems or ever had to have someone else set the chain slack with me sitting on the bike..... I'm gonna say.....BS. One question though. Stock cans? I think you've found the answer to your problem. When I did the 6mm ride height, I too had the clack, clack sound. But it didn't last long. The sound was cause by the chain smacking the center stand, while moving around the garage, and occasionally while riding. What I did to fix this, is pull the center stand bumper off of the pipe, drill a hole in it, run a bolt through it with a washer, lock washer and nut to re-attach. Without pushing the bumpers "tit" back through the hole, it effectively spaced the bumper out an extra 1/2 inch, which lowered the center stand, and poof, no more clacking. I'd try that before you spend a bunch of money on chains sprockets etc.....

This is common. Not a problem, I mean common on almost all bikes. Next time it happens just roll the bike forward or backward a few inches and it should click right in. Not to be out of line, but DOWNSHIFT for christ sake! Think about coming to a stop light. Slowing down, almost to the stop bar, or stopped, when all of the sudden you hear screeching coming in from behind you. You look in your mirror to see billows of smoke and a car sliding right into you. Just punch it and get out of the way right? Nope you're in 4th, 3rd, 2nd gear? Bike just stalls and you're screwed. Very seldom do I even put in in neutral while sitting at a light, unless there's cars already stopped behind me. That's a bad situation. Please try to stay out of it. Don't want any more riders down, especially forum riders. Not trying to preach, just food for thought. :wink:

Love the throttle lock.... lets you take pictures of titties at 80mph!! NWS! (obviously) http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auctio...33039814652.jpg

You're gonna have to teach her to slip the hell out of the clutch, with no torque from the inline twin, it's REAL easy to stall, or it will chug and lurch till the RPMs come up a bit. Pretty unsettling for a newbie. Even the GS500f that my buddy just got for a first bike, just chugs at low RPM, really have to slip the clutch at low speed maneuvers. Still a fun bike though.

Well cool! Thanks! Learn something every day! :grin:

Really? Shit, I must not be doing things quite right then.. Well why bother with static sag?

Sorry if I wasn't too clear on the static sag, to get the static sag measurement you have to average the two measurements. First measurement is after you lift the rear and let it down slowly till it stops, second measurement is after you compress the rear (without you on it) and let it come up til it stops. The static sag will be the average of these two measurements. This is done to compensate for "sticktion" of the shock travel in the bushings and seals.

30-35mm is recommended sag. To do it right takes quite a few hands. With bike unloaded lift the rear and let settle, take measurement (I usually use from swingarm to a piece of tape I put on the tail fairing), then push down on rear and let it slowly come up. Take measurement. You want to find the average between these two as your actual starting point. Then with you in full riding gear, sit on the bike (helps to have someone holding the front upright so you can put your feet on the pegs) and have someone take the measurement again. The difference between your starting point and this measurement should be 30-35 mm. I'm pretty sure 30mm is for racing, where 35 is more for street.

Rule of thumb I was told, was stumble under load=rich problems with no load=lean Then there's the ol, try it with the choke slightly on better=lean worse=rich. Duct tape on the air filter. and it goes on and on. Once you figure out rich or lean, determine where in rpms and throttle position you are to figure out what to make the adjustment to. Pilot, main, needle. Looks like you've got that straight already. When you first crack it. Crack it hard or smooth? Throttle position? Sounds like you could probably take care of it with just an Idle mixture adj. Twist em in an 1/8 and try it. Definately put the K&N in FIRST, and go from there.

Probably have to order bulk chain.

Ok CBR-RR-XX-CESS..... We're expecting a full report, installation, riding impressions....etc. Hope it's not junk... :grin:

I've got them on mine, I'll try to get a couple pics at lunch...

I didn't actually remove the fairing to replace the CCT. I removed the rear 2 bolts and the 1 lower bolt, and propped the fairing away with a wood shim. That gave me enough room to work.

EASY! I did it this past weekend. Remove the right lower fairing, unscrew the 2 mounting bolts for the CCT, remove it, put the new one in(with new gasket), reinstall the 2 bolts, pull out the key, transfer the cap bolt and washer, replace the fairing and ENJOY! World of difference.

Get the X-11 CCT by any means necissary!!! I got one from Joe, put it in this weekend, and OMG!!! It's a new bike. Smooth as silk. The rattling bugged me but I didn't realize how much vibration it was causing also. Granted it was still smooth, but now 7 grand on up it's eerily smooth, and quiet. Wish I had done it before my 1100 miler......

Electrex tech support sux!!!! I had heard good things about them so I got one and installed it, went bad before he got to the end of the street. Got a second, it has since gone bad also, putting out 18V. I've been over the Fault Finding chart many times everything checks out good every time. I've called and called tech support, never had a tech call back, no 800 # so long distance to CA. The stator is reading 60VAC on each leg. Infinity to ground. The only thing I can figure, is that part of a coil in the stator separates and shorts out when hot. I can't figure it out and they aren't helping much...... I will try Ricks electrics next. I met Ricks wife at the Parts Unlimited Dealer EXPO, and they seem like good people with a good product. Might want to give them a shot. I'm still open to ideas about my buddies 800VFR if anyone has any......

Here ya go. http://www.2wf.com/articles/how_to/673D094...AD39F35A8E9.asp

I know I will get corrected if wrong but to my understanding the overflow bottle should not get hot like the rest of the coolant due to the fluid in the bottle doesn't circulate with the coolant in the system. This is just there to accomodate expansion and contraction of the fluid with the drastic temp changes....as the fluid expands it fills a little more in the bottle and as it contracts it sucks a little back...technically speaking.. :grin:

I've got the full system. The left has about a quarter size rash on it though. If you're interested let me know. I can send you pics.

When you were checking voltage were you checking the negative at the point where you grounded it, or to the battery? It sounds like the relay was allowing the 12v to get to the compressor, but with the bad ground there was no completion of the circuit. Floating 12v. Remember too that your volt meter doesn't measure voltage, it measures the difference in voltage between the two leads.

Still have not heard from Electrex, never called me back, never returned my email. I called again today and left a message on their answering machine. At this point in time I DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM. Getting progressively pissed :evil:

I'm considering doing that, the electrex is supposed to be the shit now, but I'm not impressed. Started the bike again last night and it started climbing again, when it hit 16v I shut it down. I'm goig to send them an email today.....Never heard from them yesterday.