I'm Pete and I used WD-40.

[blackhawkxx]

Back to trying to find a lube I like.

Try PJ-1 blue label.

[2equis]

WD-40 was designed to be a "water displacer" and not a lubricant. It's good for cleaning but I would follow up w/ a good chain lube.

from WD40.com

In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.

It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.

Convair, an aerospace contractor, first used WD-40 to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. The product actually worked so well that several employees snuck some WD-40 cans out of the plant to use at home.

A few years following WD-40's first industrial use, Rocket Chemical Company founder Norm Larsen experimented with putting WD-40 into aerosol cans, reasoning that consumers might find a use for the product at home as some of the employees had. The product made its first appearance on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.

In 1960 the company nearly doubled in size, growing to seven people, who sold an average of 45 cases per day from the trunk of their cars to hardware and sporting goods stores in the San Diego area.

In 1961 the first full truckload order for WD-40 was filled when employees came in on a Saturday to produce additional concentrate to meet the disaster needs of the victims of hurricane Carla along the U.S. Gulf coast. WD-40 was used to recondition flood and rain damaged vehicles and equipment.

 

 

In 1969 the company was renamed after its only product, WD-40.  

WD-40 Company, Inc., went public in 1973 and was listed Over-The-Counter. The stock price increased by 61% on the first day of listing.

Since that time, WD-40 has grown by leaps and bounds, and is now virtually a household name, used in numerous consumer and industrial markets such as automotive, manufacturing, sporting goods, aviation, hardware and home improvement, construction, and farming.

In 1983, WD-40 Company sales reached $50.2 million. Many companies attempted to introduce imitation products, going so far as to copy the distinctive blue, yellow and red colors of the WD-40 can.

In 1993, WD-40 Company celebrated its 40th anniversary by breaking the $100 million sales mark. That year the company was also listed among the Top Ten Most Profitable companies on the NASDAQ exchange. Not bad for a company with only one product!

WD-40 was found to be in 4 out of 5 American households (it seems everyone has a can or two) and was used by 81 percent of professionals at work. Sales had grown to more than one million cans each week.

The most interesting piece of WD-40's history is the uses for the product, now numbering in the thousands. The uses include everything from silencing squeaky hinges and removing road tar from automobiles to protecting tools from rust and removing adhesive labels. But they get a lot crazier than that

 

[2equis]

The uses include everything from silencing squeaky hinges and removing road tar from automobiles to protecting tools from rust and removing adhesive labels. But they get a lot crazier than that

I heard someone was using it as anal lube at NEXXT?!?

[Dano]

Kerosene lightly on a rag (old socks) to clean the side plates. 1 gallon at the hardware store is like $3 and will last forever.

Then a good o-ring friendly chain lube to follow on the inside of the rollers and side plates.

WD is tooo light weight. There is a reason Honda recommends 90wt gear oil.

[Pete in PA]

Actually PJ 1 Blue is what I shot on there. I like it, just have to give it a light shot like the directions say.

Here's a list of the current lubes on my shelves.

PJ 1 Blue- still decideing if I like it. So far so good.

Maxima Chain Wax- too thick comes off in chunks, doesn't lube.

Honda HP pro- too thin like spraying nothing on.

Bel Ray super clean- too thick like a grease, again doesn't lube

Any others I should try??

[rickrad]

I heard someone was using it as anal lube at NEXXT?!?

Nope there was none to be had. The fire would have starterd much easier. We had to use gear oil for the anal lube, plus it just seemed to be less gay that way (although some needed no lube :shock: )

[EVLXX]

I am now trying an old friend of mine.... Zep Super lubricant, I use it at work, why not at home.

http://www.zep.com/ProductCatalog/ProductB...3&pageNumber=10

After I evaluate it performance for awhile I'm going to try this stuff... Zep 2000.

http://www.zep.com/ProductCatalog/ProductB...3&pageNumber=11

I'm back to the thought that I need something that is going to penetrate behind those O-rings... and keep my chain clean.

We will see.

[xrated]

I'm back to the thought that I need something that is going to penetrate behind those O-rings...

The whole purpose OF the O-rings is to NOT have to try and lubricate that area behind them. They are suppose to be "sealed" behind the O-rings. Any spray or ???? that causes the O-rings to NOT do their job is, in my opinion, detrimental to the chain.

[Pete in PA]

I think you'll have the sling off problem with the Zep just like WD 40.

Like xrated said, once you are able to get ANYTHING past the o rings the chain is toast.

[EVLXX]

The whole purpose OF the O-rings is to NOT have to try and lubricate that area behind them. They are suppose to be "sealed" behind the O-rings. Any spray or ???? that causes the O-rings to NOT do their job is, in my opinion, detrimental to the chain.

Um... Yes and No.... I think.

It was my understanding that the O-rings were meant to keep contaminants from getting down into the pin area of the chain and causing excessive wear.

And to aid in keeping the lubricants in the chain in those extreme pressure point areas.

So dirt out... lube in, right?

So if that's the case you want to clean your chain periodically to keep the contaminant build up to a minimum. ( WD-40 does a good job of cleaning a dirty chain with-out scrubbing it, (scrubbing would be bad, because you may push contaminants behind those O-rings))

Then lube it often to keep the wear to a minimum. The lube would therefore need to be able to saturate and wick its way behind the O-rings. Then it needs to set-up on the outside surfaces to resist fling-off.

Or if you have a background in the construction industry like I do, you would know that as a general rule “All exposed sprockets, chains, slides, guides, and gears only get dry lubricants”. Exposed wear surfaces that are lube with grease or oils (wet) will attract and hold contaminants on the surface and increase the wear.

So…. What do you think? Dirt out … Lube in –OR- Everything out and keep the magic stuff in. ( Because that would really need to be some Magic stuff)

[Pete in PA]

"Everything out and keep the magic stuff in. ( Because that would really need to be some Magic stuff)"

If you can get lube past the o rings, anything can get past the o rings, like water on your next rain ride and your chain is done.

Lubeing an o ring chain is for the rollers and sprockets and to keep the o rings moist and not exposed to ozone.

[smoothmotion]

My "x" raced hondas and was a motorcycle mechanic for years and said just that....WD-40 is a degreaser.

My chain is sprayed with the proper spray, takes about 10 - 12 minutes to do it properly, then it sits in the garage overnight. This method allows it to soak in properly and anything extra will drip off. With this method, there isn't anything that splatters over the bike.

[Phalanx7.62]

Dunno if this helps, but be sure to wipe off all excess lube when finished. After spraying the whole chain, I run the bike briefly on the center stand to work the lube through. Then kill motor (dont want to lose a finger) and rub off excess with a folded paper towel. This works great for me, and I have very little fling off afterwards.

After my PJ1 ran out, I have been using some el cheapo "Gunk chain lube"