Animal Mother Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 Arrggghhh. I remember seeing it, but now I cannot find it. Tried the search many times and searched through tons of pages......... In short, can someone please post one more time the full instructions on how to change the oil on the bird (screw the dealership now and their $70 :twisted: )?? I think Joe originally put it up. I would be very appreciative. I have my oil and filter and am ready to go :cool: I remember someone saying that there was a very "easy" way to do it. As far as accesing the oil filter from what I recall. Where does anyone recommend to take used oil? A Jiffy Lube or something should take it for you, right? For a price I mean. Ohh, and get this, I was at Shumate motorsphorts (all the Tri-cities folk know where Im talking about) and went to the maint. dept. Anyhoo, I walk in and of course everything is emblazoned in Harley (HD dealership in FRONT of Honda...lol). So I talk to the guy and then I leave. On my way out, I walk right behind a "Hawg" that had a maint. worker on it. I walk behind the ass and he guns the throttle! Shit, I think the sound waves damaged my ear I just look back and smirk. The reason? He saw I had my .org shirt on :cool: What a doofus. Ohh, and the gas tank is 5.8 gallons, correct? Thanks. Thanks all Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suf Daddy Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 The first page at cbr1100xx.org Click up top Info/FAQ Go left and scroll down to Oil change or PM me w/a e-mail account that can handle a good size file, and I'll send you a web page with photos I did. -Suf Daddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted June 26, 2004 Author Share Posted June 26, 2004 Thanks a lot Suff, thats perfect. Question though, Ill add the quote here: Now, if Hercules installed the previous oil filter and you find it simply won't budge no matter how hard you try, then it's time to run down to your local auto parts store and pick up a small oil filter "wrench cap" to loosen the filter. I obviously know what is ment by this statement, but will a "normal" oil filter wrench work if you cannot get it by hand? I went to the local schucks and got a metal one yesterday, and it is just the perfect size to fit over the filter. However, I did not check if it would fit up through there. If it doesnt, what is this "wrench cap" he is referring too? Are they easy to come by? Possibly a pic? Thanks for the offer of the pics, but I dont think I have enough room in my free Yahoo account That write-up was very descriptive, and I believe it will be jsut fine. Steve P.S: Do the dealerships usually tighten the oil filters down really hard? I would hope not, since they are dealers. Who knows though I guess. Ill find out later today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 I got the 600 mile service done, and haven't been back to the dealership since. Buddy takes his bike there everytime, and gets ass fucked for $120 for a damn oil change :roll: My filter was put on by king kong himself. Had to jab a screw driver through it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dion Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 Large channel locs will also do the trick to loosen it. When you reinstall make sure the old gasket is not stuck to the engine flange, run a film of oil on th new gasket and hand tighten the new filter, no wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 I've got a cap style wrench I picked up from my dealer, works like a charm. I don't prefill the oil filter with oil, as the instructions on the site say. Mostly because I'd spill it all over the place and make a mess. My bird is fuel injected, and this only works on FI birds. There's a feature whereby on FI birds that when starting, if the throttle is ALL THE WAY open, it shuts off the fuel injectors. It's meant to be a "Clear out a flood condition" feature. What I do is turn the key on, make sure the kill switch is set to on, let the computer do it's wake up thing. Then I crack the throttle ALL THE WAY open and hit the starter until the light goes out. That should get oil up into the top end, too before you run the bike. At that point I check the fill level one more time, and then go ride! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 , run a film of oil on th new gasket and hand tighten the new filter, no wrench This is just one of those things.... ...What does hand tight mean? Personnaly I just go for good and snug, which in my book is just under hand tight, but is more than snug. Snug to me is like... it's not going anywhere. While Tight on the other hand is... your going to need a wrench to get that off. Somewhere in the middle of that is where I put my filters. I have never used a wrench and I have never had a leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 I bought one of them cap wrenches that you use with a 3/8" rachet. But can't use cause of clearnace with my pipes. Been sitting in my tool box ever since :sad: I now use one of them rubber strap wrenches. Tighten by hand till the filter gasket (coated with oil) touches and use the wrench to make the final quarter turn. Makes removal a snap also :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBIWAN Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 I use a filter wrench like this one. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/oil_wrench.cfm It will take any filter off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted June 26, 2004 Author Share Posted June 26, 2004 Thanks a lot guys for the responses! I dont know if I would trust myself to not prefill the filter, so ill just do like the instructions say and get it on there as quick as possible I am hoping the damn filter will come off, but if not, Ill look for something like Obiwan put up there, thanks! Wish me luck with the beast :wink: (will start later today) I really am hoping the filter comes off easy :grin: Steve Ohh, and I am not sure of the oil filter volume, but once you prefill and reinstall it, you have to take that into account obvisouly when you go to fill it up, right? I believe it is just a hair over 4 quarts (like 4.2) for the whole thing. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 It will take any filter off. Not the ones Chris puts on. :evil: :pointup: Tell him to use his other hand next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 :grin: Musta been one of my stronger days. BTW, I said I was sorry....... :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r3ckl3ss Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 If ya cant get it off... take a ride into Kennewick and I'll let you use the metal tool that slips over the filter that I bought from SHumates... The bastards only sold the filter with the wrench a few months ago, so I had to buy both... I think they cost me like 20 bucks.... anyways, lemme know if ya wanna use it... -John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r3ckl3ss Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 one last note... the metal "tool" does fit between the pipes and the filter. to wrench it off, you need to reach underneath with a 17mm open ended box wrench and slip it on. You can only rotate a little bit, and then slip off, rotate the wrench so the offset head is the other way, slip it on and turn... after a few iterations, it comes off by hand, and then comes the oil all over the hand... randomly, i changed mine today too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 .Spin the filter on until it stops.....that means the seal has contacted the block. Then turn 1/4 to 1/2 turns. Words to live by and if you follow those instructions you will never need a filter wrench for you bird, I have never used one yet on any motorcycle I have owned. :grin: Just like changing a light bulb. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted June 27, 2004 Author Share Posted June 27, 2004 I use a filter wrench like this one. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/oil_wrench.cfm It will take any filter off. Ok, here we go First, I would like to thank Obiwan VERY much for posting this link. As luck would have it, the local Schucks had ONE more, so I picked her up. Although the Honda mech. did not tighten it very much, this tool worked wonders! I higly recommend it. Although my other metal one would have worked, this one was MUCH easier. Thanks again Obiwan. :wink: John wrote: If ya cant get it off... take a ride into Kennewick and I'll let you use the metal tool that slips over the filter that I bought from SHumates... The bastards only sold the filter with the wrench a few months ago, so I had to buy both... I think they cost me like 20 bucks.... anyways, lemme know if ya wanna use it... -John Thanks a ton John, but with the help of my little bro (working the flashlight and everything ) we did alwright. I went to Shumate today again to inquire on a change. Again $70 dollars and I would have to wait until Thursday.........Ummm, screw that! Ok, some of the things I would like to add. First off, the oil filter was a tad tricky. But, just like was mentioned, I filled it 3/4 full and it worked perfect. I "missed" my fist attempt at putting it on (spilled to much), but just added a tad more oil and got it the second time. I spilled a very tiny amount, so no biggie. One great thing my brother noted was looking through the RIGHT side cowl. He flashed the light up through the bottom and it was MUCH easier to put it on this way, instead of laying on the ground and trying to get it on. You have a much better view and can get a better grip/subsequent twist on it. Also double checked to make sure no gasket was left. As for the washer from the oil plug, it says to replace it but is this honestly necessary? I inspected it, and it was a very stout looking thing. I could see nothing wrong with it whatsoever. Checked a few hours later and stil a perfect seal. Lastly, the bird only wanted to drink 4 quarts total. I read the total capacity is 4.9, but I let the four sit and then checked the dipstick again and it was nicking the top mark. Ill check it again tomorrow, but does this seem about right to everyone else? Ohh, and what the hell is up with that marking on the dipstick? I cannot even remember what it says. Like mac or some stupid thing. Where is the "min" and "max" markings? This last one is kind of a no-brainer, but I need to ask anyway. The two parallel lines that are above and below that name on the dipstick are indeed the min and max markings, correct? I ask because there is a small recessed portion that continues ABOVE the upper parallel line. Wow, that was a lot...lol. Thanks again for everyones help Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Lastly, the bird only wanted to drink 4 quarts total. I read the total capacity is 4.9, but I let the four sit and then checked the dipstick again and it was nicking the top mark. Ill check it again tomorrow, but does this seem about right to everyone else?Ohh, and what the hell is up with that marking on the dipstick? I cannot even remember what it says. Like mac or some stupid thing. Where is the "min" and "max" markings? This last one is kind of a no-brainer, but I need to ask anyway. The two parallel lines that are above and below that name on the dipstick are indeed the min and max markings, correct? I ask because there is a small recessed portion that continues ABOVE the upper parallel line. Wow, that was a lot...lol. Thanks again for everyones help Steve Mine took almost exactly 4L of oil, can't buy quarts here but I know a liter is just a bit more than a quart. Don't worry about that washer, it doesn't need to be changed. And as far as I can tell those are the min and max lines on the dip stick. Just make sure you check the oil as per the manual, it's a bit different than some bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beltwaybob Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 And thanks to Rich for the WOT startup info. I've always wanted to do that and not known how. My old BMW k1 would crank with the side stand down but wouldn't start so you could load the filter and the whole oil path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 Why crank the motor over trying to fill the filter with oil? This in my opinion, will definitly cause engine wear. Worried about oil spillage. Try filling the filter with oil as your very 1st step. This way, the oil soaks into the filters element. Walla, no spillage or oil light at start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlheine Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 ??? I thought it was 3.9 liters of oil (4 qts.) when you change the filter, and 3.8 liters when changing just the oil... At least on my 01 it is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted June 28, 2004 Share Posted June 28, 2004 As for the washer from the oil plug, it says to replace it but is this honestly necessary? I inspected it, and it was a very stout looking thing. I could see nothing wrong with it whatsoever. Checked a few hours later and stil a perfect seal. That little washer is designed to crush when you tighten the drain plug. You can feel it when you tighten the drain bolt. Eventually, there is no crush left in the washer. The washer may still seal, but you need to tighten the plug a little more each time you reuse it. (and you eventually run the risk of stripping out the threads in the oil pan) I don't always replace the washer at every oil change, but I do replace it. I consider it cheap insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted June 29, 2004 Share Posted June 29, 2004 That little washer is designed to crush when you tighten the drain plug. You can feel it when you tighten the drain bolt. Eventually, there is no crush left in the washer. The washer may still seal, but you need to tighten the plug a little more each time you reuse it. (and you eventually run the risk of stripping out the threads in the oil pan)I don't always replace the washer at every oil change, but I do replace it. I consider it cheap insurance. Two words: Torque Wrench You'll never strip another bolt. The washer is aluminum, a softer aluminum than the oil pan, so it conforms to the bolt, and the surface of the oil pan. If it doesn't leak, don't replace it, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted June 29, 2004 Author Share Posted June 29, 2004 Well, I dont have a torque wrench unfortunately. Someone should be able to just go to Home Depot or Lowes and get one of these, correct? I am sure it is not just a specialty motorcycle washer. I will change it next time though, just to be safe :wink: Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted June 29, 2004 Share Posted June 29, 2004 I've NEVER replaced those washers on ANY vehicle I've owned. Never had a leak. I do like the new pan plug on GM vehicles. It's rubber lined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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