Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Exterior wood door repair


fizzy

Recommended Posts

The hinge side stile on an exterior wood door to the conservatory/sun room rotted out.  Big hole, no way to patch. This door is 1 of 3 so it has to match. To have a new door made to match...would be expensive, I didn't check, but thick end of a grand probably, not including the large insulated glass panel, which is salvageable. 

 

The large glass panel and small wood panel below it are held in with silicone and wood keeper strips finished nailed into place. I removed the keeper strips, cut the silicone and successfully remove both panels. 

 

Luck was on my side as the door turned out to be mortice and tenon construction, so I carefully chopped away at the offending stile leaving the rest of the door and tenons intact. I say lucky because mortice and tenon door construction is far and away the best/strongest method. 

 

My only real expense here was going to be a suitable piece of wood for the new stile. I went cheap here by going to the big box store, but spent some time going thru every suitable piece on the rack. Cost 15 vs 60+ at real lumberyard, 45 x 90 x 2400mm PT spruce (I think, it didn't say).   Everything else I had already. 

 

Tools used:   small jobsite light table saw with brand new finish blade

                      Sharp chisels/ hammer

                      cordless drill and impact driver

                      Forsner wood drill bits...............................creates a flat bottomed hole and you can even change direction (a little) while drilling

                      circular saw

                      hand power planer

 

As the wood was slightly wider than needed I was able to plane it "straight" on one edge and table saw it on the other, if that makes sense, to create a very straight piece. 

Using a suitable sized forsner wood bit and following up with a hammer and chisel, I created 3 mortices.  This last bit is quite tricky and must be done accurately or the door will only look straight to a drunken sailor. 

 

The insulated glass panel came apart as I removed it, so after cleaning and removing all old mastic, I sandwiched it back together and used 100% silicone out of a tube instead of the hot mastic that the pro's use. 

 

Before hanging the door, I cut a 4 degree bevel on the hinge side, see sketch. This gives relief from binding and plenty of room for paint. On a single door the bevel should be present on both sides, hinge and latch.  For a double door unit (this one), only the hinge side for the passive door, both sides for the active door. 

 

If you read this far, thankyou, pics to follow in chronological order.

 

First pic is all that I had to work with after removing the rot.  Bottom rail was removed and repaired.

 

IMG_0570-Copy.thumb.JPG.a012ebdea572417166e34e3c1497194d.JPGIMG_0573-Copy.thumb.JPG.eb33370c31622fa1535ba45a985c7ffc.JPGIMG_0569-Copy.thumb.JPG.2fc7f2d9875ce66ee677098edbf6fc5b.JPGIMG_0579-Copy.thumb.JPG.96e5e99a2437d8fbcad07adfcabd4461.JPGIMG_0587-Copy.thumb.JPG.3e6c23367ad9d394ebba5abf05cb5691.JPGIMG_0589-Copy.thumb.JPG.b0994ad5a0bb15030684482c85590126.JPGIMG_0591-Copy.thumb.JPG.d8af618e698a14504d62b48b0e421dfd.JPG

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Useful/Thanks! 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use