Iceman_40

You MIGHT be able to get the seat lock off. It should be the same too. Always have a spare key!

No problem, glad to see you offering it to save us a few $$ appreciate it.

So what you are saying is don't order it from your website as the discount doesn't apply? Cause you told me to "Please use the "Buy Now" page on our website." and you get no discount this way. Sorry but this is the most confusing group buy ever. Normally the vendor would take names, figure out the discount and send the users a discount code, or a direct method of payment.

Sign me up too, wanted to try one for a while. I'm in Canada so let me know what I owe you for shipping and how you want payment.

Bump before I hit Ebay A 03-06 CBR600RR shock would fit the bill too

Picked up a 92 GSXR-750 for a steal for the GF. Needs a rear shock busa shock is a upgrade for it. Figure someone may have a extra laying around might as well ask here before I hit ebay.

Two Brothers

Damn I always have bad timing. If it falls throw for some reason sign me up.

Quick answer is follow the chart to narrow it down. If your battery is old it could just be it and the other rectifier may just limit voltage output to 13V.

Diesels don't like cold no matter what. Up here any diesel that needs to run keeps running(-25C or colder) or is stored indoors. You can start them most of the time if they are plugged in or running a heater. But if they have a heater they are sucking your battery dry. I know quite a few people that have sold there diesels because they are a major pain. They are fantastic for work, towing etc but unless you need to do major towing it isn't worth having it here.

I always warm up the engine. In the winter when it isn't too cold I usually wait until the temp is showing on the gauge 40C/104F at least. When it is cold (-20C/-4F) I usually start it with the remote start and wait until I have at least 10C/50F inside the Jeep(my remote start is 2 way and can display inside temp). Engine has long reached operating temp at this point. Even with full synthetic oils, when it is real cold below -30C you have to not only warm up the engine but making sure your transmission, power steering etc is warm. If your PS isn't warm say good by to your PS hose. NOTHING works the way it should at -40. I usually let the bike warm up until the TStat opens(80C/180F) no matter what the temp.

HANKSXXX Looks like you got this in the wrong forum.

Just wondering why 99 or 03? Good luck getting what you want.

I think the biggest difference between a cheap chain and a good one is how long it lasts before it starts making noise and/or needing to be replaced. A good quality chain and frequent oiling will last a LONG time. I have about 20,000Km's on my chain and will likely need to be replaced in another 5-10,000Km. Zero pretty much has it backwards, most of the guys I know who race don't use X ring, or O ring chains. They run cheaper chains that are just as strong but need replace them often apparently the chains without the O rings have less resistance. Racers are usually looking for any advantage.

Personally I'd ask around for a link for your chain. Lots of people buy the 120's and cut them down.

Are you running their kit? If so how long and involved was the install? Please let me know. I agree for the dough this is quite a bargain. I don't have mine yet, won't be installed until next spring. I went with the 35W slim ones, went 35W to save some power for other things. Lots of guys here have DDM's kits and that's one of the big reasons I ordered from them.

Shouldn't have any issue with it. I'd do it with a rivet style link but not a clip on.

On the highway mine sits about 80C. Since I'm getting 45+MPG at 80MPH with full Givi luggage. I use to get 30-35MPG but after a PC3 and a dyno tune it's gone up a lot. The bird runs hot in traffic,and in the city soon as I hit the highway it pretty much stays at 80C.

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-35W-...orcycle-HID-Kit Hard to beat the price.

pretty sure you are right

if you have more I'll take one too Stan.

Since the only thing on the XX that bothers me is the charging system I don't think I'd want to add the second fan. Mine gets quite warm in busy traffic at high temps but I have only seen that once or twice.

CCT removal is simple just remove the bolts. When you put it back in use a small flat screw driver to retract the spring. It's a bit of a pain holding the screw driver in place while putting it back in the bike, a extra hand helps but it is doable by yourself.

They don't seem to stick out as far as the stock ones, would be useless to me even with 1 inch extenders I can barely use more than 1/2 my mirrors.

Now that's a sweet deal.