Hobicus

I have a set in my garage, too. Not perfect but serviceable. Similar deal as Philip (RXX)... drop at pack n ship you pay whatever they charge. Where are you located?

But it's all cock. That suit may fit you, Jen's close to you on height.

Not me.

So what do you need from me? I could ship you my shift lever off the 954. Can't guarantee that the shaft is the same as the 1000rr, though.

What did you mean by "RR" type? The shift lever on the 954 actuates an arm that connects to the shaft for the transmission. If you wanted to do something like that, you'd have to replace the rearset, too. The shift lever from the bird fits directly on the shaft for my 954, and in doing so switches it from standard to GP shift. I just have to remove the actuating lever from the rearset.

Reading comprehension = fail.

Silly question: Rick's Electrics makes a replacement stator for the 97-98 http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/pr...25DQlIxMTAwWFg= And for the 99+ model years it's a different part: http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/pr...25DQlIxMTAwWFg= I wonder if they'd know something about it? Maybe I'll email them.

I haven't bothered.... but it's a pretty simple adjustment. Pull the 10mm bolt that holds it in place, pull it off, rotate it up/down until it looks about right, put the bolt back in.

New battery... runs funny.... I'd check the ground wire.

I sure hope that's a "day long saddle"...... On topic: Bead seat. Really. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=67593

There's board members in the area that would check it out for you. Some of them might even be nice enough to pick you up at the airport, put you up for the night, offer you a little anal, take you to the bike, and send you on your way. Just ask

Thanks Stan. I agree it sounds like a rich problem. The needles should be fine. The carbs were rebuilt well, I think. I did use a infrared temp tester and saw up to about 212 at the header pipes. The cylinders were more like 196 F. I am going to tear into it again tomorrow. It is sounding more like a stuck choke. It runs OK, not good when cold, but when it is warmed up it is way too rich. I'll let you know what I find out. Stuck choke/something not right is a good suspect... it's running rich. And if you haven't... synch the carbs.

Spend a little time making sure all the clamps are tight. Given the cooling/heating/long winters here, I usually need to double check them once a year.

I can at least get you a price. It's a phone call

Joe, I can check with my supplier tomorrow for a new Rick's Stator via Cycle Farkles: http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/pr...25DQlI2MDBGMg==

I suppose I should toss my parts bin in the car, too. I've got some, too.

Let me dig though my parts bin tomorrow evening, I'll see what I have. I'm pretty sure I have a couple. This dude's posted the same thing on a number of forums and I've already seen (a few days ago) the offer of some. There are other forums?? I'll keep that in mind.

Let me dig though my parts bin tomorrow evening, I'll see what I have. I'm pretty sure I have a couple.

Low battery = dead tach. Fully charge the battery before any other test Once you've got the stator connected and power flowing to the RR (solder or replace the connectors, in other words) the best test is to start the bike, take your electric meter and check the DC voltage at the battery. If it's 12.x at idle, and climbs to 14.x-15.0 when you rev it, the RR is working. If it doesn't climb, or goes over 15.0 (the manual says 15.5) then it's fried. Note that since the RR and the stator connectors are all part of the replacement RR, you're better off for testing purposes just using crimp quick disconnects for testing purposes. If you've got to replace the RR, you'd just have to solder them again.

Any relatives in other states? Sell it to them, Register it there, ride it for the necessary miles (couple of months) then have them sell it back to you (for a buck)

Send that picture to Bob at Empire GP and have him give you an estimate. He can plastic weld that back and paint it to stock for less than what it will cost you to buy a new one. If he needs parts, I've got a couple spare (albeit not perfect and missing pieces) uppers I can send so he has complete parts to graft to it. http://www.empiregp.com/ If you need an upper fairing stay: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=67296

I discovered a similar problem after I crashed. During dis-assembly, I found that that the center connector was fried. I did the standard stator test, comparing the AC voltage across the wires, and it was all good. Since the bike was charging OK before the crash, I assumed it was loose and had been arcing for a while. My solution was to do the cut and solder routine, removing the connectors themselves, soldering the wires together and eliminating the connector. Bike is charging perfectly now, reg/rect wasn't the problem, stator wasn't the problem, connector was the problem.

I will whip you up some fresh :icon_love:

Most likely not bringing a trailer, Joe.