Furbird

You leave out the fastest color by not accepting 99 models (black). Well over 50k on mine, never had the valve cover off. They don't "need" a valve adjustment, and I can only clearly recall one person actually doing it and finding it was off (believe it was .001 or .002, basically not even worth pulling the valve cover off) and that was over 100k. I've got a 99 with 2000 body work (because they are the same bike) but it doesn't fit within your parameters.

The going rumor is you need to shake it up first as it may separate out. I've heard that synthetics are prone to this, and the oil will come out in distinctly two different colors. I always shake the bottles no matter how old they are so can't confirm this personally.

I went through a couple of bad batches of bearings when I was drag racing constantly. Enter a corner, whine. Going straight, no noise. Zero wobble, just noise similar to your experience.

Do you need a two stage? Sure, it would make my life easier, but my single stage 60 gallon does everything I need it to do. Sandblast cabinet, lug nuts on the 2500hd, so far no problems (although some of these axle torque ratings are absolutely bonkers which means reversing is LOL levels of stupidity.) Don't forget, if you hard pipe your shop, all that pipe adds to your capacity.

I've got a Craftsman 20 or so gallon roll-around oilless that I bought used 25 years ago that still runs like a champ. But it's in the car garage now as I installed the big 60 gallon I bought from HF probably a decade ago out in the big shop. HF never made their own stuff, so it turns out the one I have is made by BelAire (6061V) which they still make today but I paid roughly half of today's prices. They are practically bulletproof so fingers crossed it will be the next homeowner that has to do anything to it. Mine also enjoys the climate and humidity control too. If you've got the room and need the air, go as big as you can and get something serviceable. I got lucky since HF was using a rebranded well built product that even though they don't carry anymore, parts are still being made for. And for God's sake, if you get a big stand up compressor, get isolation pads because it makes life so much better!

State law varies on your question. We are a "may" issue state, but with revenues being so low I'm shocked they haven't changed that to a "shall not" at this point and require reinspection. Georgia doesn't accept ours because of their revenue department, and they are so vague that they won't even tell you why they fail it, just "it doesn't pass." You pay every time it's inspected, pass or fail there. They won't accept ours because people on the east side of the state buy from Atlanta's GIGANTIC auctions, legitimately fix them here, we inspect them here, then inevitably a Georgia buyer buys it. Georgia sees that as bypassing their process and won't accept them, however we do accept theirs. Eventually it will get to the right politician and they'll change our laws to "shall not" and require reinspection for all states because Georgia wants to be stubborn. Salvage means not legal to operate here. The only way to make it legal is restore it to it's prior condition, plus airbag light must function and display no faults, windshield cannot be cracked, and obviously if we find anything on it stolen then that's reported to the local jurisdictional authority for prosecution. We require it to be road ready, but in Florida (allegedly) they don't check airbag lights or even want you to paint it before inspection. Louisiana (allegedly) doesn't even require all repairs to be completed. Mississippi used to not have a rebuilt brand IF the brand was from another state, so you'd get an unbranded Mississippi title after inspection (may God have mercy on your soul if that vehicle ended up back in the original state's jurisdiction as they would then require inspection or proof it was inspected in Mississippi.) Everybody has their own rules. VIN inspections are done by the license commissioner/probate office here, unless they can't find it then it comes to us at the state level. Problem with that is they're not trained to look for falsified/modified/altered VIN's. I had one that somebody had printed a VIN on a label maker and glued over the real VIN (obviously came back stolen.) I caught it at first glance but this thing had been titled in two different states with that fake shit on it for 13 years and neither one caught it.

I don't know the legal ramifications in your state, but in Alabama if you wish to retain they have to give you a number. I've had some people tell me astronomical amounts back when the restrictions were nill on things going overseas (like Camrys to Dubai for the idiots to do their "drifting" videos where they would pay above retail for a SALVAGE CAR!) It's not like that anymore although a pile of stuff does go to Mexico and South American countries from here. We're seeing more an more owner retentions now because the insurance companies are totaling for nothing now and people don't want to deal with the unknown of a used car. Next few months it will get worse especially on trucks since the market is so overpriced. Your Jeep probably went sky high, as almost all Jeeps do. One of my rebuilders had to buy one out of New York, hit in the rear, with frame damage, to get it cheap enough to make it worthwhile. New York inspector said it would have to have a frame to pass inspection there, so now I tell people, "If you think I'm too strict, try to get this inspected in New York."

I have one of those. Seriously. The frame is the basis of my fat kid go-cart. The body is still in my parent's garage. The wheelbase is so long an adult can drive that if you remove the body. I use an office chair on mine (again, not making this up.) It's a fucking death trap because those have the pads that rub against the tires for brakes, not a real braking system. Might as well Flintstone it. Obviously now I have to fur that body and call it a "Furderbird" 🤣 Google the VIN of your Jeep. If it pops up on en.bidfax.info it will tell you what it sold for.

Oh, I am. But everybody abides by the same rules, so no matter what the playing field is level. Once they figure that out, they respect it.

Copart allows you to see if something sold by using the lot number, and it keeps the photos up usually for about 3 years. Can't do that by VIN, ONLY the lot number. IAA however is far more difficult because they scrub the listing. Sometimes after a couple of weeks you can catch them on Russian or UAE mirror sites. I have heard that if you have an account you can pull up photos after auction closes but I don't know what level account you have to have. I use the searches available to me to find out as much info as I can during my investigations because (real shocker here) several rebuilders are not forthcoming in what they have repaired hoping you don't catch something they should have fixed or failed to provide receipts for. 6 years of doing this and they still act surprised when I reject something because they didn't provide documentation for some major component they replaced. "How did you know I had to put a trunk and quarters on it?" "Because here's the pictures from when you bought it at auction and it looks like it was hit by a freight train carrying the Empire State Building."

With IAA, you pretty much have to be watching the auction live. Maybe if somebody had the VIN it could be googled, there's one site I know of that discloses selling prices (much to the chagrin of my rebuilders because that is supposed to be protected information.)

So you're going to build one of those into a jukebox and ship it to me, right? You know you want to 🤣

It's already over 5k plus buyer fees. It will probably double or triple on auction day.

That VIN suggest it's an assembled vehicle. That rear suspension (or lack thereof) suggests it's hacked together.

USD, pesos, or yen?

Birds run hotter and hotter at idle. You have to remember that water pump has a large rev range it has to remain functional in so the sacrifice was made at idle. I have a throttle lock on my bike and sit it at about 1500 to assist in cooling if I'm trying to cool it down. At a red light (and I live in the deep south where it hits 95 degrees with 95 percent humidity fairly regularly) I will put a little throttle in it to raise it up to that 1500-1800 range if I know the light will have me sitting there for a while. Exhaust wrap is asking for trouble on a street bike as no matter how well you wrap them they will trap moisture and accelerate corrosion/rust.

If the basement has a window (being in the south Lord knows I hope it does) then throw a window unit in there. It's not about the temperature, it's about recirculating the air. Dumping an AC vent with no return is not fixing the problem as the damp air is now just damp COOL air. Point is to remove the damp. I have a dehumidifier in the garage but only because I got one for free. It does a wonderful job of keeping the humidity down so I don't have to run the through-the-wall unit. But if it takes a dump I'll just set the AC on 80 and let it cycle.

I went with the $20 Wyze cameras. They have SD card memory (not required) and save things on the cloud. Events in your motion detection range will save for 2 weeks I think, plenty long enough for you to know if something happened. I go through them daily and have them set up very sensitive so it picks up birds, rain drops, even wasps that fly by. I put one in the laundry room window that covers the front yard and driveway entrance and one in the back yard on the gate side that covers the shop and vehicles. No monthly fee, I just use the free service with the app. They pick up audio or motion but I have the audio off since they are in the house. Supposedly you can buy housings to mount them outside but I just don't know that I trust that with the amount of rainfall and humidity we have down here. I caught Tinkerbell/ghost/flying spaghetti monster/creature from the black lagoon/insert whatever you think it is here. This was early AM so the reality is the sun rising through the double panes of glass caused it and also kinda washes out the image some. Hope it loads... 20200528_10_32_58.mp4

You should take it to the dragstrip. I'd come in from a pass and have two vortex-style fans wide open pointed at the radiator. That sucker was thermonuclear without the forced air assistance. Birds run hot.

That's one hell of a naked lady collection...

A 240gb SSD is "small" to you? Good grief, my laptop and all my music/videos wouldn't even fill that up.

I used a push through the fins thermostat for years on my Astro when I converted it to electric fans, never gave me any problems at all. And that thing ran for hours when we used it at a party as the stereo system (it had 8-15's.)

Yes, you should be hearing some "creak" or a clamping force of the pads against the rotors. As the rotors turn, they "bump" the pads out so they're not constantly under friction against the rotor. So the pad moving back and forth on the slide pins or slots will cause a tiny bit of noise. If you're not hearing that from the rear, and the fluid has never been changed, then it's quite possible that the rear brakes boiled the fluid the first time it was braked on with sufficient force. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it will pull in moisture from the atmosphere. Moisture in brake fluid means boiling, and the more there is, the worse it is. 20 year old brake fluid with very little use means the water hasn't had many chances to boil off so you've got to start with a flush first. Make life easy and get a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight. Center stand, open handlebar and rear master cylinders, start at one bleeder cracked open and start vacuuming out fluid, one by one, until you're pretty sure all the old stuff is gone. You still have to finish up with a pressure bleed as the last step, where you have to pump it up with the levers and bleed off the excess, but at least you're not doing that to get all the fluid out also. If you're not comfortable with this, take it to a shop and have them do it. Have them do the clutch fluid too because the same thing applies to it. Nearly impossible to boil that fluid but the water can still cause issues on that system.

My fluids have only been replaced once in 21 years, maybe. Bike has over 50k and probably a thousand passes at the dragstrip. And this was an 1/8th mile with a short shutdown, so you had to use a lot of brake. 8k miles on a 20 years old bike is scary to me, that's why I always say mileage should not be anywhere near the top of a list of requirements for purchase, no matter what it is, and especially not a bird. But don't be like me, change the fluid FIRST and do a full bleed to make sure it's not the easiest fix of all. The easiest thing to check of hard parts is the caliper. Center stand, put in first gear, get the rear wheel speed up to maybe 20-30mph, clutch in and hit rear brake. Rear wheel should stop almost immediately. If not, pull the caliper and make sure the pads are easily removable. Could be the pad is just stuck on the pin(s) or is corroded and causing excess friction. It's pad on one side and slot on the other. Hell you might get lucky and it just have a rock stuck between the pad plates! Next, collapse the pistons on the rear caliper. I have always used the old pads to do this but whatever you have that will fit in there and allow you to close them. If it moves smoothly then the caliper is probably fine. If you feel things grinding, I would suspect it's got water intrusion and has surface rust on the piston on the inside. Never taken a bird caliper apart but have seen this happen before on other bikes. Normally you would have a leak as it tears seals but it depends on how the caliper is assembled. The rear reservoir cap needs to be off to allow the fluid to easily flow back into the master cylinder during this step, in case you aren't aware. If all that is good, I would replace the rear master cylinder. It's $100 from Ron Ayers and while they do sell rebuild kits for that, I would just buy the entire assembly if it gets to that point. I'm referring to the actual piston part, not everything. Hell, Joe probably has 15 laying around he'll sell you.

I'm leaning towards stuck rear caliper or a rear master cylinder issue. Highly unlikely it's anything on the front side of braking with your description.